302 rad/cooling pics/ideas

[Angie]

Hi, can you post links to your threads for the placement of your rads on 302 builds? please... will save me searching many threads of how you placed in the rad.

thanks. looking for the best ways/combinations of rad and electric fans.

cheers

 

[Elutheros]

I cut the lower core support out and moved the radiator forward almost to the vertical support from the upper core sheet metal. I had the stock Explorer fan in there for a while, but recently put a Volvo electric fan with a BMW sensor to activate the fan. Has always kept it cool on the hottest days in central Texas. Forgot to mention it has a 3" body lift and I welded a new support bracket at the bottom for the radiator.

 

[Angie]

thanks.

what are the dimensions of the rad? what i am trying to do is figure the tightest rad i can use without chopping the sh!t out of the front of my truck, and not over heating the motor.

not afraid of cutting and welding, however, if i can avoid it i am trying.

thanks.

i did look over your build, looks like you had troubles with where the motor sat on the frame. looks like your clearance problem got fixed now.

 

[84FreakRanger]

this fits right in the core support. no cutting or welding
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390648150682?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[jmcleek]

Looks like explorer 4.o rad. tucked under top of core support
with 3 inch body lift.
one of mine http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3143/2241/7856120156_large.jpg?v=0
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3143/2241/7856120159_large.jpg?v=0

 

[Angie]

84Freak, thanks for the link. sweet looking rad. definitely looking into that 1. Do you run 1 of them? and any pics installed?
thanks

JMCleek. I am lost on what style rad that is.... is it a 4.0 L rad that you have there? nice and neat for sure, more info please? V-belt? over all thickness of the rad and the fan combo? thanks

 

[84FreakRanger]

No, my truck had a rad in it when I bought it. I just had a bad motor in it, I had to rebuild the motor and get new headers and motor mounts. But that is the radiator that I'm going to buy soon. I seen different companies that make similar radiators for $500. So the Northern radiator is a awesome price and company. My truck has maybe a inch or more between my belt driven fan and the radiator

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

96-01 Explorer belt system
91-94 Explorer HD 2 row radiator on the stock mounts
91-94 Explorer fan shroud trimmed to fit
Flexalite 118 (IIRC) pusher efan on a 190* Painless relay setup
Low profile Flexalite flexfan with reverse rotation adaptor.
Flexhose for the bottom, 4.0 Explorer radiator trimmed to fit the top.

I made a write up in the "submit info for tech library" on how to make the Explorer FEAD work in a older Ranger, if you are interested in that and can't find it I can dig it up for you.

Now I am scheming on how to cram an A/C condenser in there. I don't need the efan unless I leave it sit or drive it slow... going to have to regroup if I lose that and gain another heat source.

 

[jmcleek]

92 explore 4.0 rad tucked lift 2 inch lift bottom of support inside cut out . bracket made to hold bottom of rad with the 2 fittings that held the bottom of the stock rad. the other truck is done the same way but used the stock 2.3 fan.

 

[jmcleek]

Truck #2 father daughter prodject , her daily driver used for school (a.s. automotive tec. working on welding deg.) and work .

 

[Angie]

Jmcleek, thanks for them, and nice nova build also!!!

These pictures and how you guys mounted the rads/fans are great thanks !!!

I know what is wrong with my build now.... I checked the placement of the motor in the frame and I need to get my motor and trans back another 1-2 inches.... By looking at all the room you guys have, I am guessing I am too much to the forward end of the motor bay.


arrrhg... always something else....

cheers

 

[jmcleek]

Thank you. Part of the reason for the 2inch body lift was engine placement, the other part was that I used automatic overdrive transmission. The part of the pan under the timing chain cover front edge was 17 1/2 inches front the top edge of the front bumper and the valve cover on the passenger side was an inch from the fire wall. If that helps. In addition the pinch weld on the floor firewall is hammered flat with the floor using relief cuts. Another reason for the lift is the big a$$ 15 inch wheels that I put under it. The transmission cross-member was moved back about an inch or so. What type of motor mounts are you using? You want to set the engine as low and far back as you can.

Go into pictures on cardoman there are a ton of pics

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

On the mounts I used SN-95/foxbody convertible mounts, not that thrilled with them. I had ti shim the engine way up to get it to clear the crossmember and they keep wanting to settle in the slots which messes up the exhaust seal and the oil pan will rub on the crossmember and vibrate.

I have it fixed now by cutting up washers and stuffing in the slots in the crossmember but I still don't like it. Someday I am going to go to V6 mounts with plates.

 

[Angie]

at the moment using mounts from a 2.8 that were in the truck, and a set of 1/4 inch plates from an old ranger swap that someone else built years back that were on a motor that I took out of a ranger from a pick-a-part wreckers. That motor was sold after I took the small bell housing C6 off it.

will now take the plates off the motor and build a new set at work with the same patterns but will build in a slider that can allow the motor to go back more.

will have to reset the trans and modify the mounting there also.

thanks

 

[jmcleek]

Sounds good ,post up some pic when you get the kink worked out.