3.0 Head Gasket HELP ASAP!

[JeremyS]

What are some recommendations 2 making a head gasket installation better? Making it bulletproof?
Essentially leaving no stone unturned.

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Use a good quality gasket set (OEM or Fel-Pro) and follow the torque specs of the manual exactly. Always replace the head bolts with a brand new set. If re-using an old head take it to a machine shop to be checked out. I would recommend buying a set of rebuilt heads with the hardened exhaust valve seats so you don't end up with a low compression problem down the road.

Get a good scraper and thoroughly clean off the old gasket material from the block. Be careful not to gouge the block while scraping it. Also try not to let the debris get in the water jacket on the block.

Before you torque the head bolts down use compressed air or a good vacuum to clean out the bolt holes in the block. If they have debris or liquid in them they can give you a false torque when tightening the bolts. I usually oil the threads so that the bolts thread in easily.

I would replace all of the exhaust studs and bolts as you go. The old ones are probably corroded and may not torque correctly. I found these at my local hardware store.

My friend recently overheated his Honda and blew a head gasket. His thermostat had been sticking and the car had actually been throwing a trouble code due to it. Instead of fixing the problem he just kept driving it and I guess the t-stat eventually failed stuck closed. He was on the interstate and only had a few minutes to realize he had a problem before it was too late. Never ignore a coolant problem on a car... a garage just charged him nearly $2,500 to replace the head gaskets! A problem that could have been prevented with a $10 t-stat....




Lots of good videos on youtube to reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WHBskK_F3o

 

[adsm08]

Before you torque the head bolts down use compressed air or a good vacuum to clean out the bolt holes in the block. If they have debris or liquid in them they can give you a false torque when tightening the bolts. I usually oil the threads so that the bolts thread in easily.

I like to run the old bolts down into the holes first, because that brings up most fluid that can get in them.

 

[JeremyS]

I like to run the old bolts down into the holes first, because that brings up most fluid that can get in them.

I usually do that as well but forgot to list it. Good advice!

 

[justin30513]

Use a good quality gasket set (OEM or Fel-Pro) and follow the torque specs of the manual exactly. Always replace the head bolts with a brand new set. If re-using an old head take it to a machine shop to be checked out. I would recommend buying a set of rebuilt heads with the hardened exhaust valve seats so you don't end up with a low compression problem down the road.

Get a good scraper and thoroughly clean off the old gasket material from the block. Be careful not to gouge the block while scraping it. Also try not to let the debris get in the water jacket on the block.

Before you torque the head bolts down use compressed air or a good vacuum to clean out the bolt holes in the block. If they have debris or liquid in them they can give you a false torque when tightening the bolts. I usually oil the threads so that the bolts thread in easily.

I would replace all of the exhaust studs and bolts as you go. The old ones are probably corroded and may not torque correctly. I found these at my local hardware store.

My friend recently overheated his Honda and blew a head gasket. His thermostat had been sticking and the car had actually been throwing a trouble code due to it. Instead of fixing the problem he just kept driving it and I guess the t-stat eventually failed stuck closed. He was on the interstate and only had a few minutes to realize he had a problem before it was too late. Never ignore a coolant problem on a car... a garage just charged him nearly $2,500 to replace the head gaskets! A problem that could have been prevented with a $10 t-stat....




Lots of good videos on youtube to reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WHBskK_F3o

Oh I agree 100% on fixing a problem ASAP or parking the car or truck until you can fix it. I know people have to make it to work but what's the point of getting to work if it's going to cost you a whole month's salary?
My whole engine is full of bad antifreeze now. What is the best way to get it all out? I'm guessing drain as much as I can now and do the head gasket job. Then flush before starting the vehicle? I would love to manually flush as much as this junk out as possible after I work on it so none of it has to go through the system. I just don't know a way to do this with the heads off and the water jackets exposed.
Should I actually flush the engine with the engine the way it is now?
Just let me know what you think. I just want to get all the junk out of the block heater core & radiator before starting the vehicle

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