289 swap

[PFC Laird]

I was planning on this project when i got my leave after coming back from iraq. I'm pretty much clueless as to what would be the easiest thing for me to do. I've read through the tech library a few times but it'd be easier for someone to "break it down to me barney style". any input will help especially about a trans swap if i need one. (ive seen folks with lx mustangs use the same tranny with their v-8 swaps) and any supplementary add-ons such as brakes and such.

i have a 2wd 94' and a 4 spd w/ overdrive manual trans

this is the engine package i picked from proformance unlimited

Thank you for contacting Proformance Unlimited. Based on your request our recommendation is our Ford 289 engine package with 350hp. This engine package sells for $6,750 plus shipping. The following list of specifications will apply to this package:



A Precision Machined 289Block (Painted Color Of Choice)
A Precision Ground Micro Polished Cast Crankshaft (Optional Scat Crankshaft $200)
A Set Of Tri Metal Clevite 77 Rod And Main Bearings
Scat I-Beam Bushed Connecting Rods With ARP Hardened Rod Bolts
High Performance Speed-Pro Flat Top Pistons
Hand Filed Performance Rings To Match
Three Piece True Double Roller Timing Set
A Hand Selected Performance Cam Shaft To Achieve The Idle & Throttle Response To Customers Desire.
16 High Rev Lifters (Anti-Pump Up)
Dart Performance Pro One Aluminum Cylinder Heads 62cc With 170cc Intake Runners
(8) Stainless Steel 1.94 Intake Valves
(8) Stainless Steel 1.60 Exhaust Valves
(16) High Performance Valve Springs And Retainers (To Match Camshaft)
7/16 Screw In Studs And Hardened Guide Plates
Chrome Moly Push Rods
16 1.6 Ratio True Aluminum Roller Rockers
High Volume Oil Pump
Chrome front sump oil pan, and dip stick (additional $150 for rear or double sump oil pans)
Timing Cover With Scale
Engine Will Be Assembled With All New Bolts
Edelbrock Aluminum Performer RPM Intake Manifold
Chrome Thermostat Housing To Match Intake
Edelbrock Carburetor W/ Electric Choke (Upgrade To A Holley Or Demon For $300)
14" Chrome Air Cleaner
MSD Pro-billet distributor (Requires MSD 6AL ignition control)
MSD Blaster II Coil And Bracket
8 A/C Delco Spark Plugs
Custom Fit Taylor 8mm Ignition Wires (Color Of Choice Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Orange No Extra Charge)
Fuel Pump W/Inline Filter
Hi-Flow Water Pump
Chrome Valve Covers With Baffles
Professional Products Performance Balancer
Fel-Pro Performance Gaskets
All Engines Will Come With Flex Plate (For Auto Trans) Additional $200 For Manual Transmissions.
As We Assemble Your Engine We Take Several Pictures Throughout The Building Process. And Then We Send Them To You Via E-Mail, So You Can See The Quality Of Parts And Workmanship That Goes Into Your Engine.
Each Engine Is Live Run Tested Timing Set, Carburetor Adjusted For Optimum Performance.
We Video Tape Your Live Run Engine, And Send You A Copy.
All of our turn-key crate engines come with a 1 year warranty with unlimited mileage

 

[v-8power]

If it were me i would order a different engine besides a 289. You could get a comparable 302 for the same money. I feel it would make your swap easier.

As far as tranny goes, if you want to stay with a manual you should get a t-5. They are plentiful. Just make sure you get a good one from a v8 vehicle.

You will have to do some mods to your heater box. Maybe shave your passenger side frame rail.(depends on what headers you use)

It also depends on where you locate your engine as to whether or not you move your tranny mount. I know you will enjoy it when it's done.

I almost forgot. THANK YOU FOR SERVING OUR COUNTRY.

 

[superdave1984]

289-302 same engine. Same block. I didn't have to mod my heater box in my 84 Ranger, not sure about other , newer models. That's a ton of cash for an engine IMO. Granted, it's a helluva motor. You can pick up a junkyard motor and have it built much cheaper. Do it yourself and save even more. Do your homework and have fun with it.

http://www.mre-books.com/ranger.html
Worth a look.
Here's a phone number for another possibility.
Total Performance, in Michigan. 586-468-3673

 

[canyoncritter]

I bet you could get a 347(302 stroker) for close to the same price.

 

[baddad457]

The 289's drawback in a Ranger swap is the oilpan, most of the dual sump fox body pans lack a dipstick in the pan. There are some 79-early 80's pans that had this provision, but they're hard to find. And the accessory bolt holes in the heads are drilled and tapped smaller and sometimes at slightly different locations, making it hard to adapt newer accessory drives to it. The 3 bolt balancer & passenger side inlet waterpump also complicates things. All this can be overcome, but it's far easier to start with a mid 80's & up roller 302 in a swap.

 

[Hjcraver]

289 for $6750 ( Rather expensive)

Its pretty easy to build a 331,347,or 393 for less than $5,0000. Actually you can buy an assembled short block on ebay for less than $2,000. A good roller stroker should give you from 15-30% more power than a 289. There is basically no substitute for cubic inches.It is also very gratifying to select components and do that 1st burnout on an engine assembly you helped configure. If it was my choice i would regroup and do some more shoping. Good luck.

I dont necessarly recommend this engine but it was built by a good old North Carolina guy.Look on Ebay and search for the item # listed below:
302 Ford 347 Stroker New Crate Engine by NASCAR Shop
430 HP 444 TQ Dyno Tested Full Roller Warranty Item number: 380016343869
(Only $4075.00)

Here another choice on the West Coast:
D & D 331 347 STROKER ENGINE SBF FORD LONG BLOCK Item number: 160229064798 ( Only $4375.00)

 

[v-8power]

289-302 same engine. Same block. I didn't have to mod my heater box in my 84 Ranger, not sure about other , newer models. That's a ton of cash for an engine IMO. Granted, it's a helluva motor. You can pick up a junkyard motor and have it built much cheaper. Do it yourself and save even more. Do your homework and have fun with it.

http://www.mre-books.com/ranger.html
Worth a look.
Here's a phone number for another possibility.
Total Performance, in Michigan. 586-468-3673

OOPS brainfart.
How you got your engine set in there without modding your heater box i would like to see. You have to cut the crap out of your core support for the radiator?

 

[bobbywalter]

OOPS brainfart.
How you got your engine set in there without modding your heater box i would like to see. You have to cut the crap out of your core support?

in a 2wd application with the small heads and valve covers it can be done especially with comet type manifolds. engine sits back and at a slight angle. at least on spring mounts.

 

[superdave1984]

I don't think I have pics of the install on my computer since it was back in 92. Maybe I can find them and scan them up. But I did cut the core support, not because I had to, but because I put in a radiator from a 63 Caddy. HUGE. Never had any problems cooling the beast. The valve covers had about an inch clearance from the heater box. No A/C on it either. Dented the drivers floor at the base of the firewall to clear the headers and it was in. The conversion kit I got was from the folks at the phone number I listed there. I went by a Hot Rod magazine article from 1980 something. The kit had motor mounts and an oil filter relocation kit and that was it. All I had to do was drill one hole an inch behind the factory motor mount hole on the frame on the driver's side. Fabricated a tranny mount because I really just didn't like the factory mount. The engine and trans were out of a 72 Mustang. Ran great. Paid $150 for the pair. The headers that were on it fit beautifully except for the floor denting, and you couldn't tell it afterward. Used an oil pan from an 85 Crown Vic, had a buddy weld the dipstick tube in the side of the pan and VOILA!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The heater box is only an issue when you have an A/C truck. Sometimes you can just heat it up with a heat gun and push it in.

I am building a 289 for my Ranger. I got it for free and it is all standard size, just gotta send the crank and heads off, get a rebuild kit and it is done. If I was actually going to shop ($6,750??) for an engine I would go with a 351, but free is free, and mine is really good shape. Really I am kind of suprised the would recomend it over a 302, they haven't been in production for over 30 years.

Bolts for the front accesories should be in the same place as on later engines but are smaller, other users have got them to work. Totalled is running a mid 80's crown vic serpintine setup on his late 60's 302 (same layout as a 289) and I am planning to go that route as well.

Chrome front sump oil pan, and dip stick (additional $150 for rear or double sump oil pans)

The dual sump oilpan isn't a big deal, with some measuring you can just drill a hole and braze a new tube in a typical dual sump pan or buy a new one with it already in there. Not sure how they can charge $150 extra for a dual sump pan. If they think you are going to get a front sump pan to fit I question what else they don't know about putting one in a Ranger.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-123457&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

[stranger]

for that price you can get a boss block build with 4 bolt mains

 

[PFC Laird]

I'm positive that the reason why it's so expensive is that it's turn key. The cam's already broke in and everything. Which is really what i need, seeing as i dont have a garage of my own because i would be living in the barracks in the states which means i'd have to use the auto hobby shop and they charge by the hour to work there. I know how to put engines together, though i know it takes forever to put together. i would like to knock it out in a few hours just have it there, yank the 2.3 and tranny, drop the v-8 and new tranny in and get out. but even with that i know im gonna run into some stupid little problems that'll cost me time.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

What do they charge you per hour to work in there? I can't help but think a rebuilt longblock would be much cheaper with a little scavaging before hand.

I know it would mean more time in the shop, but $6,750 is a lot of money and you don't even have a transmission yet.

 

[PFC Laird]

i'm not sure how much they charge, im pretty sure the one at shaw AFB where my dad was previously stationed was close to $30 an hour. although it did have pretty much any tool you'd need in there incl stuff like hydraulic presses and vehicle lifts

 

[mhughes165]

ive never seen them charge nearly that much, they usually just charge for tool rental and about 10 a hour, u can EASILY us ur time in the auto hobbys shop, build a better motor and drop it in for less then they are charging u there...