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220 Help


adsm08

Senior Master Grease Monkey
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Ford Technician
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
34,623
City
Dillsburg PA
Vehicle Year
1987
Engine
4.0 V6
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Manual
Tire Size
31X10.50X15
Ok, so I am looking into a new compressor for my home garage, since I am no longer in the dealership and now doing all my work from home.

I bought a 20 gallon from Harbor Freight back in October, the week I moved, but I have so far been underwhelmed with it's performance, and then last night it locked up altogether. I am going to try and get my money back, and if I can my dad said he'd spot me the difference to go get a 60-gallon 11.5 CFM unit. The issue here is that the compressor in question is 220V.

I can figure out almost anything on 12V DC systems. The extent of my knowledge of residential wiring is that it usually pisses me off trying to work on it.

So now I have some questions about residential wiring.

The guy I bought this house from was a professional electrician with a local construction company. Last summer he just ran a band new 100 amp service from the house to the garage. The garage has it's own breaker box, fed off the box in the basement.

What is going to be involved in getting 220 service in the garage? Will it involve running a new line between the house and garage, or would I have the voltage available in the garage already? If the answer is "depends" how would I go about determining the answer?

If it helps, the breaker in the basement labeled "garage sub panel" is a double pole 100 am unit.

I tried to do some reading up on the topic, actually found a thread from another forum started by a guy who was looking at buying the same compressor I am looking at, but I didn't really understand a lot of it. I kinda get lost when they start talking about phases.
 
If it helps, the breaker in the basement labeled "garage sub panel" is a double pole 100 am unit.

If it's double pole it should be 220. Basically it combines 2 legs of 110, there's some plates the breakers snap into that fit together not unlike if you take your hands, spread your fingers apart, palms facing you, and have your fingers overlap eachother. The double pole spans 2 "fingers" and pulls 110 from each "palm".

There is always some exception, but if it's up to code and done by an electrician, this is pretty much the norm/accepted standard 99% of the time.

There should be a Black and Red wire coming out of the double pole breaker (at least it should). Though sometimes, they're both red or both black. Those are your hot wires. White is neutral return, green or bare is your ground.

Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-8-8.jpg
 
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Just remember that 220 is two 110 wire feeds,I did the same thing in my garage,I ran a large feed from my house power panel and installed a 75 amp breaker in my power feed panel buss work the breakers just pop into the slot and lock into the copper buss bars,each side is 110 and a ground buss bar.You take one feed wire from each side of the buss bar which will give you the 220 you need to run your compressor,my setup has been this way for over 25 years now and I have a large 80 gal upright compressor that runs on 220. Hope this helps you out.
 
A couple other tidbits and one opinion;
-the smaller the number, the bigger the copper wire. 8/3 is bigger than 10/3.
- you'll probably need 8/3 from your compressor to your panel. BUT check the compressor specs first.
-compressor rpm ... less is quieter.
- a cordless impact can be cheaper and just about as good if you don't do body work.

This may be one of those times to do the rough wiring and let a pro finish it for you. Especially for insurance purposes.
 
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Captn Ledd has it covered ASM.. only thing to remember most 2 wire cable is black and white. 2 hots should be both black or in the case of 3 wire red and black and white to neutral and ground to ground. Hopefully the new panel is "bonded" also.

Many belt drive motors can be wired for 115 or 230 (called 220 most of the time)
 
So what ya buyin?

I have a porter-cable that has been bullet proof. It came from CPO, truck freight, 2 days after I ordered it,,, they did charge freight,,,, 5 dollars, five dollars truck freight 2 day service. That was 9 years ago and it supplies my 5 day a week business.
 
This is the one I am looking at.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_54284-1126-VT6362_1z140vv__?productId=3370356&pl=1&Ntt=air+compressors

Kobalt 3.7Hp 60 gallon, 11.5 CFM @ 90 PSI. I tend try to run about 110 PSI because even though my current compressor is rated for 4.1 @ 90 all my tools seem to be a bit anemic and the high consumption rating is 4.0.

Electric impacts are ok, and I do have an electric 3/8, but the dealerships are always set up for shop air, and since I am out of that job now and not going back to a service bay I have all my air tools, impact wrenches, air ratchets, drill, air hammer and grinders at home. I want to be able to use them. I can buy a good compressor between $500 and $1000, or spend +$3000 for all new electric stuff.



Anayway, if I am understanding this correctly I get some big-ass wire, a double pole breaker, and the outlet and I can just go to town and SHOULD end up with a functional 220 setup. Right?
 
Using Cap Ledd's illustration take a voltmeter set to Ac and measure the wires coming into the shop sub box.

If it is recent and installed to code there will be 4 wires if you have 220 available. Usually black, red, white and green. Green is ground and may not be there if older. And white will be common (also known as neutral). Red and black (or any color other than white or green) are the hot wires.

So with the meter set above 115 check it out. Red to white and red to green should read 115 to 120 vAC. Black to white and black to green should also get 115-120 vAC. to install your new compressor you will need a breaker for 220 at the correct amperage rating and wire of the correct size for the length of run. The new compressor will be either 3 wire or 4 wire depending on local code. Again red, black, white and maybe/maybe not green.

I always wire from the box to a plug so I can disconnect the appliance without turning the power off in the box. See below.

https://www.google.com/search?q=3+w...=4t-fVpjDCpTwjwOIlZOgAw#imgrc=eyTcdACbkaw3ZM:

and

https://www.google.com/search?q=3+w...=4t-fVpjDCpTwjwOIlZOgAw#imgrc=4loofQUzCUvHXM:

Note: In the links orange wire should be green in the 4 wire and white in the three wire. And depending on where you get the breaker and wire they should be able to walk you through it. Oh, if the links don't work (they worked for me), google 3 wire 220 and 4 wire 220.
 
This is the one I am looking at.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_54284-1126-VT6362_1z140vv__?productId=3370356&pl=1&Ntt=air+compressors

Kobalt 3.7Hp 60 gallon, 11.5 CFM @ 90 PSI. I tend try to run about 110 PSI because even though my current compressor is rated for 4.1 @ 90 all my tools seem to be a bit anemic and the high consumption rating is 4.0.

Anayway, if I am understanding this correctly I get some big-ass wire, a double pole breaker, and the outlet and I can just go to town and SHOULD end up with a functional 220 setup. Right?


The Kobalt a good compressor. A good friend of mine that owns a 12 bay auto shop and a smog shop has two of them. One for each side of the shop. They replace a very very large Ingersoll Rand that freed up space to put another smog machine in. You will be happy with it.

And YES to the electrical. Some suggestions.

Make sure all the wiring is up to code. Encased in conduit and check with your area's codes. Here in California you have to put new "arch-fault" breakers in anything that's 220v and other uses.

I would get it all done and see if a Electrician will come and inspect it at the very lease. Most will come by for a case of beer and have a look. Wouldn't want something to happen and the insurance company won't pay for a faulty setup.
 
The compressor spec sheet will tell you how many amps it should draw at max load.

http://www.usawire-cable.com/pdfs/NEC AMPACITIES.pdf

The left most column is the wire gauge.

THHN is the gas/oil resistant stuff and is usually what Home Depot, etc carry. So look at the right most column for copper conductors (4th one over from the left).

Not seeing the compressor, you'll probably be fine with 12ga, but if it's pulling over 25/30A, better go with 10ga.

Obviously pair that wire with an equally rated breaker. You can put heavier wire in from a lower rated breaker (probably a good idea actually), but don't be sticking a 40A breaker with a smaller wire like 12 or 14ga, or else...

*Edit* Ah ha, didn't see the link before. Says it'll pull 15A, so 12ga wire should be fine. Normally 12ga is good to about 20A under normal circumstances.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_sY2rjxq6M&fs=1" width="644" height="390">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_sY2rjxq6M&fs=1" />https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_sY2rjxq6M">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_sY2rjxq6M
 
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That looks like a compressor that will run a long time for you.
 
#12 wire should handle it to 20 amps,


PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS
COMPONENT SPECIFICATIONS
Model VT6362
HP 3.7
Number of Cylinders 2
Air Delivery @ 90 PSI 11.5 CFM
Voltage 230 Volts / 15.7 Amps
Max Pressure 155 PSI
 
That unit is similar to my Campbell/Hausfeld I bought from Lowe's before they replaced it with their Kobalt line.

2-pole 20-amp breaker in the panel. 12-2 from the panel to compressor. A/C pullout disconnect next to compressor for means of disconnect if not in direct sight of the breaker panel. Disconnect is optional if in direct sight of the panel.

12-2 Romex has only a black, white, and bare wire. Connect in this order: bare to the ground bar in panel (where other greens or bare wires are connected, not the whites.). Black wire to 1 side of the 2-pole breaker. You need to re-identify the white wire for the next step. Wrap the white wire with red or black electrical tape. The red (or black) denotes the wire is a hot, not a neutral. Connect the 'red' wire to the other side of the breaker.

Do the same thing in the disconnect: 12-2 from the panel: Black wire on the 'Line', Red wire on the other 'Line'. Bare to the ground bar.

12-2 from disconnect to pressure switch, disconnect side: Black wire on 'Load', Red wire on the other 'Load'. Bare to ground bar.

12-2 at pressure switch: Refer to page#13 in the manual, Bare to green screw, wrapped clockwise. black wire to one side of pressure switch, red wire to other side of pressure switch. They refer to the black and white wires, use those positions as referred.
 
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Ok, so I am looking into a new compressor for my home garage, since I am no longer in the dealership and now doing all my work from home.

I bought a 20 gallon from Harbor Freight back in October, the week I moved, but I have so far been underwhelmed with it's performance, and then last night it locked up altogether. I am going to try and get my money back, and if I can my dad said he'd spot me the difference to go get a 60-gallon 11.5 CFM unit. The issue here is that the compressor in question is 220V.


That is a nice compressor. Have you looked at 110 instead of the 220 systems? I had a huge Craftsman 110 that I had for over 20 years. I gave it to my brother-in-law back in 2009 after I sold my last motor cycle. That was one great compressor. It ran all my air tools with out any issues. He still has it and uses it several times a week.

I just had my electric guy over to the house last week. He ran me another 110 line to run our chest freezer. I was running an extension cord over to the freezer and it really was starting to get in the way. He charged me $70 to do the run.
So, there is no 220 on the garage at all? Have you asked around for the price of running a 220 line? This is something I will not ever do myself. I would get a pro to do it. Also.....for insurance purposes it is the better way. Your insurance company won't pay if your place burns down and they find out a do it yourselfer did the job. Just something to think about. So, ask around!!!
 
I didn't look at the compressor, but is it a three prong plug or a four prong? If it's a four prong, you'll have to run 12-3 wire instead of 12-2.

You'll also have to make sure you get the correct brand of breaker for the box.

100 amp sub panel will be 220 volts if it comes off of a double pole breaker. You'll need a double pole breaker to run the compressor.

I'm not a registered electrician, but I know how to do it all and I enjoy playing with it. If you'd want to throw me some gas money and maybe feed me and I'd be happy to come over and get you squared away with wiring it. I'll bring some of my home brew beer along to share too if you like good beer.
 

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