2.3L ('02-'11) 2010 2.3L still overheating after new radiator, flushes, reservoir, thermostat, and water pump

[Wingit]

I see an electric fan in there, does it turn the correct direction?

I'm embarrassed to admit that I'm not sure which direction it should turn. I'd imagine counter-clockwise from the perspective of the pictures?

 

[droidish]

Weird. Also with the shape of the blades they'd have to rotating in opposite directions too. Right?

Yeah the fan is driven by the backside (smooth) of the serpentine belt. The fan spins CCW while the crank pulley spins CW.

 

[droidish]

When it overheats, you are seeing the temp gauge way over to the hot side?
Are there other signs of overheating like pinging or knocking?
Does the “Check Engine” MIL come on?
You mentioned a vacuum leak, if that’s bad enough it could cause overheating, but it should also set off the MIL.

A more accurate way to see your coolant temperature is using a scan tool plugged into the OBD port. If you don’t have access to one, I think some parts stores loan them, maybe O’Reilly or Auto Zone.

 

[Wingit]

Yeah the fan is driven by the backside (smooth) of the serpentine belt. The fan spins CCW while the crank pulley spins CW.

The E-fan also spins CCW?

When it overheats, you are seeing the temp gauge way over to the hot side?
Are there other signs, like pinging or knocking.
Does the “Check Engine” MIL come on.
You mentioned a vacuum leak, if that’s bad enough it could cause overheating, but it should also set off the MIL.

A more accurate way to see your coolant temperature is using a scan tool plugged into the OBD port. If you don’t have access to one, I think some parts stores loan them, maybe O’Reilly or Auto Zone.

I'm not seeing it get that far over, but only because I slow down (and pull over when it gets past 7/8). No check engine light, no codes, nothing. I wouldn't usually be worried unless the needle hit the red, but I often caravan that route with my buddy who has a Ranger with the same engine and his never budges from the middle.

I am using an OBDII scanner at the same time, and watching the cylinder head temp. 7/8 on the gauge is about 240f, which to my understanding is a bit too hot

 

[pjtoledo]

Electric and a clutch fan? That can't be right can it?

standard factory setup, my 2005 has that too.

 

[droidish]

I went out and took a good look at my e-fan. Looking at the pitch of the blades it rotates CW from the perspective of facing the grill. Opposite to the rotation of the clutch fan.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The blades rotation doesnt matter as long as its pulling air thru the rad. I wonder if the electric is not working and blocking flow?
Can you disconnect the electric connection and using some jumper cable hook directly to the battery? And jumper meaning some small gauge wire with the correct ends to fit the connectors.

 

[RobbieD]

Is the e-fan operating as it should be?

If not, it's just serving to block the air flow that the clutch fan is trying to pull.

 

[Wingit]

The blades rotation doesnt matter as long as its pulling air thru the rad. I wonder if the electric is not working and blocking flow?
Can you disconnect the electric connection and using some jumper cable hook directly to the battery? And jumper meaning some small gauge wire with the correct ends to fit the connectors.

Is the e-fan operating as it should be?

If not, it's just serving to block the air flow that the clutch fan is trying to pull.

E-fan runs immediately when the AC is switched on, like it should. I'm not sure how I would check its operation when driving with the AC off

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

E-fan runs immediately when the AC is switched on, like it should. I'm not sure how I would check its operation when driving with the AC off

I'm not sure either, but the fan is working which is what I was wondering. Maybe turn on the AC when you drive the hill and see if that helps. If it does then that would indicate the fan control isn't working correctly. And yes, I'm just making guesses here as I dont know that year trucks system.

 

[RobbieD]

I don't know that new of a truck, either, but a shop manual for your year should describe what the correct fan operations are.

One thing I might try, is to unplug the electrical connection at the compressor, and see if that will let you turn on the e-fan without the AC actually turning on. Then you can then see if the e-fan by itself pulls the temps back down when you're starting to overheat.

One other thing: has the AC condenser ever been cleaned? The face of it. If it's full of dead bugs or leaf crap air can't flow through it and that reduces your cooling efficiency. Same thing if the condenser's fins have been bent or damaged.

 

[Wingit]

I don't know that new of a truck, either, but a shop manual for your year should describe what the correct fan operations are.

One thing I might try, is to unplug the electrical connection at the compressor, and see if that will let you turn on the e-fan without the AC actually turning on. Then you can then see if the e-fan by itself pulls the temps back down when you're starting to overheat.

One other thing: has the AC condenser ever been cleaned? The face of it. If it's full of dead bugs or leaf crap air can't flow through it and that reduces your cooling efficiency. Same thing if the condenser's fins have been bent or damaged.

That's a great idea with the compressor! I'll try that next time I drive.

The condenser is in okay shape. I wouldn't eat off it, but I'd consider the number of obstructions to be typical. There are a few bent fins, but no more than any other vehicle I've seen. I'll try cleaning it out anyways, since it's free.

I've just replaced the fuel filter, and holy crap the truck runs so much better! The gas drained from the old filter looked like mud, and even had a few small pebbles in it. I saw a thread on here from 2012 where a guy fixed his overheating issues by replacing the filter. He theorized that it provided sufficient flow at lower rpms, but at higher ranges it would falter and cause a lean condition. My scanner says the long term trim was about +15% when climbing a shallow hill and +5% at freeway speeds. After resetting the ECU and driving 100mi it's maxing out at +7 on a hill. Maybe this'll make things better

 

[RobbieD]

There are a few bent fins, but no more than any other vehicle I've seen. I'll try cleaning it out anyways, since it's free.

A small seal pick can be used to straighten bent fins, just don't go crazy aggressive on it. You can buy a fin comb, but a pick works fine, and time spent straightening bent fins is worth it for the extra air flow.

It's also worth it to gently scrub the condenser face with a soft brush, like a shoe brush, with warm soapy water, then rinsing it well. Let the brush bristles reach down between the fins to dislodge the dirt buildup on the tubes' and fins' surfaces.

Anything you can do to maximize air flow through the condenser, and thus to the radiator, gives the cooling system more efficiency. Cleaning the trash and dirt from surfaces helps maximize the heat exchange.

And I know that on my earlier model trucks, AC trucks have a couple of foam and rubber seals which are there to maximize air flow through the condenser and radiator. I'm not sure on your year model, but it's worth looking into, in case yours had them but lost them at some point.

The gas drained from the old filter looked like mud, and even had a few small pebbles in it.

When there's live fish in it, that's when you really start worrying.

Seriously, it was past time for a new filter. Good move.