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2004 Ranger Clutch Problem.


nh2123

Active Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2009
Messages
29
Transmission
Automatic
Hi,

2.3, 2w drive

Started truck, clutch had loose feeling, easy to depress.

Could not put truck into gear (seems clutch would not engage)

Checked clutch fluid reservoir and it was low

Have not been able to find where fluid is leaking from because snowy weather

140k on truck. Clutch seemed ok (not much slipping)

This looks like a master or slave cylinder problem? Or what else could it be?

I read that if you replace master cylinder you should also replace slave cylinder or other way around. True?

If I'm replacing master and slave I have to take transmission out to get to slave right?

In that case am I best off replacing clutch at this time?

Thanks, trying to make these decisions in quick order as I would like to have the truck back on the road sooner rather than later.
 
I did look for leaks near clutch pedal, from master cylinder reservoir hose to master cylinder and also from line to slave cylinder. No sign of fluid anywhere. Reservoir is bone dry though.
 
Hey there,

You have 140k on the original clutch? You've been running on borrowed time, time for a clutch!

I would do the whole clutch system: master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch assembly, pilot bearing, flywheel, new tranny fluid if it hasn't been done yet.

Yes, you will have to drop the tranny to get to the clutch and slave. There are a lot of good write ups if you haven't done it before. I've done it on a '99 2.5L, it was fairly easy and straight forward.
 
At 140k miles I would say the slave is probably the culprit. Most likely leaking inside the bellhousing. Pop the little cover off an look. Depending on how you drive the clutch may or may not be worn, I've seen people destroy a clutch in 20k miles, but around here they usually go for 200k miles+. However if your going to be dropping the transmission anyways its completely worth the money to rework the whole system, especially at that mileage and considering how much work it is to drop the trans.
 
At 140k miles I would say the slave is probably the culprit. Most likely leaking inside the bellhousing. Pop the little cover off an look. Depending on how you drive the clutch may or may not be worn, I've seen people destroy a clutch in 20k miles, but around here they usually go for 200k miles+. However if your going to be dropping the transmission anyways its completely worth the money to rework the whole system, especially at that mileage and considering how much work it is to drop the trans.

Yeah, unfortunately it is the slave cylinder. In the process of taking care of this. Going to do a few other things while the tranny is out since it was a bitch getting it out and I don't want to do it again anytime soon. The clutch is in good shape but I will go ahead and replace it anyway.
 
Anyone know what purpose the clutch pedal position switch serves other than not being able to start the vehicle without the clutch pushed down? If no other use will not having it hooked up cause computer to throw a code? Thanks.
 
The switch not there might set codes, but probably won't trip a light.

It is there to keep it from starting in gear, and it will kill the cruise if you put the clutch down while cruise control is turned on. Why wouldn't you put it back in though?
 
The switch not there might set codes, but probably won't trip a light.

It is there to keep it from starting in gear, and it will kill the cruise if you put the clutch down while cruise control is turned on. Why wouldn't you put it back in though?

It may be broken, it's not re installing correctly. And I don't care to spend the $30 or $40 for a new one.
 
I have trans out of truck. Put pin, bushings, and shifter in to go from neutral to a gear because I read that that would make it easier for trans reinstall. Put into gear and pulled shifter, pin, and bushings. Now when I put shifter back in I can't get it to change gears. I still have trans out of truck. How can I fix this? Thanks.
 

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