Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Joe Dirte
Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2015
- Messages
- 5
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Transmission
- Automatic
Long post, but hope this helps someone.
I have a 2001 Ranger XLT supercab 4x4 4.0 SOHC auto tranny.
The truck would just crank and not start. Then sometimes it would start and drive just fine. No loss of power.
So I figured cam position sensor. It's located on top of the left side valve cover towards the front. Changed it. Fired right up. Ran fine for few times.
After a few days, there was a definite no start. Just cranked and cranked.
I pulled a spark plug wire. Stuck a screwdriver in it and placed it near a ground. Cranked the engine and saw strong spark.
I stuck a fuel pressure gauge at the schrader valve at the end of the fuel rail located at the right side near the fire wall. There was a blue cap on the end of it. When I turned the ignition on, 0 pressure.
I took a look at the inertia switch located near the right side kick panel. It did not need to be reset. I disconnected the connector and ran a small jumper. Still 0 pressure when cranking. I reconnected it.
I found the fuel relay at the left side engine compartment fuse box. I switched the relays with another in the box. No difference. No start. 0 fuel pressure.
I disconnected the power at the fuel tank and tested for voltage. There was voltage. Not the full 12v, but about 4v and another pin had 6-8v.
So I figured it must be the pump. I didn’t want to mess around with disassembling the unit and only changing out the pump. I bought the motorcraft PFS 1019. This is for the 112” or 126” wheelbase. It was the complete unit and came with the screen. I was glad I purchased the complete unit because there was an exterior hose on top of the old unit that looked like crap and was loose.
To change out the fuel pump, I opted to remove the bed verses dropping the tank. My tank was about ¾ full. There was the skid plate to remove. I would have been struggling to disconnect the hoses.
Disconnect power to the battery.
Set the rear axle on jack stands and removed the rear tires.
I disconnected the fuel pump power connection. Disconnected the connection for the tail lights located underneath the left rear of bed.
To remove the bumper. I disconnected the two license plate lamps from behind the bumper. I removed the trailer connection that was connected to the bottom of the bumper. There are 4 bolts that were a pain to get to. Two bolts are attached together with a metal strap. When I put the bumper back on, I changed the direction of the bolts which made it easier to tighten up the nuts.
I removed the fuel cap and stuffed a rag in it. Then I removed the 3 screws that hold the filler neck in place.
I removed the bed liner. That Ford bedliner was not that easy to remove. I had to bend and pry that thing out. Six #55 torx head bolts hold down the bed. Two of those bolts are longer than the rest and are from the front of the bed. I had help to slide the bed back about 1 ½ feet. That’s enough to access the fuel pump.
I washed off all the dirt from the top of the pump and tank. I used WD40 around the top of the plastic nut. I opted not to use PB Blaster because I didn’t know if it would melt that plastic. I tapped around the nut with a hammer. Then I used a pry bar and hammer to loosen and remove that plastic nut. Patience and finesse is key here. Don’t want to break that plastic nut.
Once that nut was loose, I disconnected all the hoses and swapped fuel pump units. Connected all hoses and reconnected battery. Turned the ignition on, heard the pump turn on and saw 30 lbs of fuel pressure. Fired up the engine and saw 60 lbs of fuel pressure.
Then removed fuel pressure tester and reassembled everything else.
The biggest pain for me was the bedliner and bumper. Removing the bed sounds like a pain. It was better than wrestling with a ¾ filled tank and struggling with disconnecting the hoses from between the tank and bed with limited access and visibility.
I hope this helps someone else that has a no start issue.
I have a 2001 Ranger XLT supercab 4x4 4.0 SOHC auto tranny.
The truck would just crank and not start. Then sometimes it would start and drive just fine. No loss of power.
So I figured cam position sensor. It's located on top of the left side valve cover towards the front. Changed it. Fired right up. Ran fine for few times.
After a few days, there was a definite no start. Just cranked and cranked.
I pulled a spark plug wire. Stuck a screwdriver in it and placed it near a ground. Cranked the engine and saw strong spark.
I stuck a fuel pressure gauge at the schrader valve at the end of the fuel rail located at the right side near the fire wall. There was a blue cap on the end of it. When I turned the ignition on, 0 pressure.
I took a look at the inertia switch located near the right side kick panel. It did not need to be reset. I disconnected the connector and ran a small jumper. Still 0 pressure when cranking. I reconnected it.
I found the fuel relay at the left side engine compartment fuse box. I switched the relays with another in the box. No difference. No start. 0 fuel pressure.
I disconnected the power at the fuel tank and tested for voltage. There was voltage. Not the full 12v, but about 4v and another pin had 6-8v.
So I figured it must be the pump. I didn’t want to mess around with disassembling the unit and only changing out the pump. I bought the motorcraft PFS 1019. This is for the 112” or 126” wheelbase. It was the complete unit and came with the screen. I was glad I purchased the complete unit because there was an exterior hose on top of the old unit that looked like crap and was loose.
To change out the fuel pump, I opted to remove the bed verses dropping the tank. My tank was about ¾ full. There was the skid plate to remove. I would have been struggling to disconnect the hoses.
Disconnect power to the battery.
Set the rear axle on jack stands and removed the rear tires.
I disconnected the fuel pump power connection. Disconnected the connection for the tail lights located underneath the left rear of bed.
To remove the bumper. I disconnected the two license plate lamps from behind the bumper. I removed the trailer connection that was connected to the bottom of the bumper. There are 4 bolts that were a pain to get to. Two bolts are attached together with a metal strap. When I put the bumper back on, I changed the direction of the bolts which made it easier to tighten up the nuts.
I removed the fuel cap and stuffed a rag in it. Then I removed the 3 screws that hold the filler neck in place.
I removed the bed liner. That Ford bedliner was not that easy to remove. I had to bend and pry that thing out. Six #55 torx head bolts hold down the bed. Two of those bolts are longer than the rest and are from the front of the bed. I had help to slide the bed back about 1 ½ feet. That’s enough to access the fuel pump.
I washed off all the dirt from the top of the pump and tank. I used WD40 around the top of the plastic nut. I opted not to use PB Blaster because I didn’t know if it would melt that plastic. I tapped around the nut with a hammer. Then I used a pry bar and hammer to loosen and remove that plastic nut. Patience and finesse is key here. Don’t want to break that plastic nut.
Once that nut was loose, I disconnected all the hoses and swapped fuel pump units. Connected all hoses and reconnected battery. Turned the ignition on, heard the pump turn on and saw 30 lbs of fuel pressure. Fired up the engine and saw 60 lbs of fuel pressure.
Then removed fuel pressure tester and reassembled everything else.
The biggest pain for me was the bedliner and bumper. Removing the bed sounds like a pain. It was better than wrestling with a ¾ filled tank and struggling with disconnecting the hoses from between the tank and bed with limited access and visibility.
I hope this helps someone else that has a no start issue.
