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2000 Ranger starting issues...


I've had codes pop up before that were unexpected. I disconnected the battery at the negative terminal and left it like that over night. Hooked it up, started it up and never got them again. Who knows why that happens? Maybe I just got lucky, but it's happened more than once.

Hard to believe all that came up at one time. I've not been easy on my transmission, but have changed the fluid three times in the 17 years I've owned it, and changed the filter the last time, in January. The o2 sensors in my truck are the originals, and I've not had a problem with them once.

I would at least do the battery thing one time and see if they come back. Can't hurt to try, doesn't cost anything. I've reset codes on two friends vehicles, and far as I know they stayed away.

Is there a chip on the computer? If so try removing that as well. They can become corrupted and do some weird crap.
 
As far as I know, there isn't a chip on the computer. Tried pulling the battery terminals for like 10 minutes, but it didn't make a difference. The more I think about it, the more it screams electrical fault to me, like a mouse chewed wires or something rubbed where it shouldn't. I could be way off base though.

Going to run a fuel pressure test just because I can, could be my new pump is junk. Also wondered if my cat failed or something, my choptop did something similar and it turned out that a chunk of cat material broke off and lodged in the pipe to the muffler


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Been talking with holyford86, he said it sounds electrical, like a loose plug or melted wires or something. Guess I'll start with that


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Maybe could be that's the problem. Electrical problems are the worst.

Anyway, ten minutes really isn't enough on the computer. There is some kind of power saving device in the computer that keeps it alive for something like 30 minutes. I always unplug mine and leave it overnight.

Don't know if it makes a difference. But I know for sure it takes longer for the monitors to go to the READY mode when you do this, as compared to just pulling it for a short time.
 
Well, I think I may have found the problem. And I hate rust. Let me say that again for the folks in the back... I F*^%#+#%^**#+++%!!!! HATE RUST!

Figured I would crawl under the back and start looking there. Shock mount rusted off and skinned the wires for the evap canister. Looks like the frame is bad too.


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Being that the rear end on trucks is so readily visible from behind, I've always attempted to keep my two trucks pretty clean back there. Once a year, after winter, I like to get on a crawler and unleash a can of some type of oil all over the underside. Not WD-40, that attracts moisture far as I know. Silicone type oil. Makes everything nice and shiny and hopefully keeps the rust away. There isn't much on the underside of either of my trucks.

I know, I'm one anal SOB. :D

My LIGHTNING for example.
 
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Oh, I hear you. I'll oil frames and stuff. Didn't have this truck to take care of sooner though, lol


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The rust situation sucks but at least you found the frayed wiring! I should also be looking at some rust prevention measures for my rigs.
 
Hydraulic oil, grease and used motor oil, and Fluid Film all work well from what I understand for rust repellent.
 
The Fluid Film product looks simple enough. I don't want a dirt magnet, though. Need to do some research... I think some type of dry film product. I hate greasy/grimy.
 
Dad paints a thin layer of cheap grease thinned with used motor oil on stuff, seems to work really good without being overly messy. We found out the hard way that hydraulic oil never seems to really go away, we had a dump truck that blew a line....

I would think that Fluid Film would be about the same, little messy but not bad


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If FluidFilm was good enough for the Navy I'm sure it is a great product. Costs about the same as a gallon of premium paint...a little spendy but easy to apply. I can coat both my vehicles with one gallon.
 
Frame is a mess, but only on the drivers side, go figure. Truck runs good now that I fixed the damaged wiring. Frame is temporarily patched for now, have to make a permanent fix later when I can get at it with my welder. The guy working on my truck while I can't bolted a plate over the bad spot.


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Great! Sure glad there are good folks out there willing to help.
 
I'll probably have to find a drivers side frame section to weld in, I finally got down there and poked at it. Bad before and after the split. It should hold for now, but I have to be searching for a frame piece.


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