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2000 Ranger rear disc conversion?


jmg8550

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
103
City
Windsor, Colorado
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Automatic
What does one need to convert to rear disc brakes? Will it work with stock alloy wheels?
 
Can it be done without swapping the rear diff? I'd really like to avoid that if possible.
 
I was going to bring this up this week.Last week I put Mustang rear disk brakes on my 86 B2.I used the link that's on here and it worked good for me.I was looking for more even braking backwards in bad areas and better braking around water.I was pleasantly surprised at the straight line braking was better stopped faster and the back didn't come up as much.I put regular disks on the link has the cobra model but I have 15" wheels and there more readily available.The total cost for parts from pick and pull replaced one caliper with a rebuilt one fluids and everything about $200.Timing worked out good for me because needed new brakes and an axle seal anyway.

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/engi...c-brake-conversion-stock-ranger-rear-end.html
 
So no proportioning valve needed? Pretty much a direct swap. Sorry for all the questions, I just want this swap to go as smooth as possible.
 
'94 to '04 Mustang discs are very simple. They'll work with stock brakes. You can also use the larger Cobra stuff.

Mustang brakes from a 7.5 and 8.8 are the same, and will bolt to either a Ranger 7.5 or 8.8, parts are all the same.
Just look for a how-to. It's the same procedure as a Fox body Mustang, the caliper bracket gets a small cut to fit behind the axle flange.

Brakes2.jpg


Brakes3.jpg


Brakes6.jpg
 
^^thats exactly how I did mine. I used cobra rotors, which are 11.6", you can fit a 15" wheel but they're a little big if you don't upgrade the front too. You could use brakes off of a regular mustang, they are non-vented and a little smaller.

Mustang brakes also have the e-brake built into the caliper, so you will have to do some thinking to get your cable to work with them. I personally cut down the spring on the end of the cable, and used a big roll-pin on the cable to make up the difference.

To be completely honest with you, it would be much less work to just swap in an explorer axle.
 
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I didn't put a proportioning valve in the vacuum booster is upgraded to a double diaphragm from a early 90's explorer that's my only other mod.I think it would stop better than say a TJ with 33's.

Some of the reasons I didn't go with a explorer axle is the cost by the time I get the 4.10 gearing in and it bought new brakes on it's going to be expensive.As I understand it's about 2" wider than my stock one and I'm close to needing mud flaps now to meet Cali law we've had write ups in the wall street journal how many cops are in my area and desperate to write tickets.

I would rather do this than change the rear by the time you move the spring pads to the top.Which has to be at the proper angle weld in some shock mounts.Plus I don't think my drive line would bolt up.I would have to take a torch and grinder to get rid of the existing hardware.I have the tools a and ability to do these things but I think it's a bigger job.I don't feel I put my rig through the abuse to need the big axle 8.8 If you put in a stroker small block or riding in big rock with big tires it's the only real choice.
 
I wanted to add to this thread that the brake article said the anti moan bracket is optional.Mine made some serious noise and I put the anti moan brackets on and it went away.Had to shorten the bracket a little to get it to fit.
 
I did the explorer 8.8 conversion a few months ago and it was very easy. It was my first time and I managed to get the axle underneath the truck in one afternoon. Minus the axle cost(since every junk yard a personal opinion on axle costs) it was roughly $100 for hardware from ruffstuff, and maybe another $150 for brake pads/rotors. A local junkyard runs $40 for ANY axle so I made out cheap.

As for the gear swap if you already have a 4.10 in your truck just pull it all out. Keep track of your shims and put EXACTLY in the same place in the new axle. The gear swap I did on a different afternoon and still only took me half a day.

Your making it more complicated than it is.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
Also an 8.8 axle is the same width as a 7.5

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
And the ranger flange is exactly the same bolt pattern as an explorer

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
I didn't put a proportioning valve in the vacuum booster is upgraded to a double diaphragm from a early 90's explorer that's my only other mod.I think it would stop better than say a TJ with 33's.

Some of the reasons I didn't go with a explorer axle is the cost by the time I get the 4.10 gearing in and it bought new brakes on it's going to be expensive.As I understand it's about 2" wider than my stock one and I'm close to needing mud flaps now to meet Cali law we've had write ups in the wall street journal how many cops are in my area and desperate to write tickets.

I would rather do this than change the rear by the time you move the spring pads to the top.Which has to be at the proper angle weld in some shock mounts.Plus I don't think my drive line would bolt up.I would have to take a torch and grinder to get rid of the existing hardware.I have the tools a and ability to do these things but I think it's a bigger job.I don't feel I put my rig through the abuse to need the big axle 8.8 If you put in a stroker small block or riding in big rock with big tires it's the only real choice.

I have heard you need either MC from a truck with ABS or a proportioning valve to get the brakes to work right with the Explorer rear disks.

The Explorer rear is actually closer to the same width as the front than the stock rear is provided a BII has the same front axle width as a Ranger (I think it is)

I shopped and found an axle that matched my current gearing (3.73), 4.10's were available too.

Match the angle of the new perches to the old axle and you are good to go.

But if you haven't been busting the 7.5 left and right... who cares :icon_thumby:

As for the gear swap if you already have a 4.10 in your truck just pull it all out. Keep track of your shims and put EXACTLY in the same place in the new axle. The gear swap I did on a different afternoon and still only took me half a day.

That will usually work, but you HAVE to have the proper tools and know how to use them and check it before you risk hosing a gearset.

Also an 8.8 axle is the same width as a 7.5

An Explorer axle is not. Ranger 7.5's and 28 spline 8.8's gained width in '93 too but were still not as wide as an Explorer axle. BII rear axles were wider than a 83-92 Ranger.

And the ranger flange is exactly the same bolt pattern as an explorer

Around 1990/91 (somewhere in there) and newer are. The older ones are much smaller and either require the flange removed and new holes drilled/tapped, a new flange with the smaller pattern or a new driveshaft with the corrosponding sized yokes. I drilled and tapped a new set of holes in mine.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.html
 
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A quick note about the Mustang parking brake- I used the stock Ranger cables, and simply used short section of copper pipe to make it work. Approx. 3" pipe, that had a large enough diameter to fit over the ball end, but not over the spring. Then it sits in/on the recessed part of the caliper where the brake cable always sits. Easy.
You'll also notice mine are Cobra caliper and rotors. The Cobra calipers are functionally the same as GT/V6, but they look different, so I had to have them!
CobraGtCalipers.jpg


I wanted to add to this thread that the brake article said the anti moan bracket is optional.Mine made some serious noise and I put the anti moan brackets on and it went away.Had to shorten the bracket a little to get it to fit.

I am not using anti moan braces, and have no issues with any noise. Some do, some don't... Maybe Loctite helps!
 
Might have already been covered. Might be a dumb question. Why couldn't I just take the brake parts off an explorer axle (calipers, brackets, dust shield, etc.) and convert my stock rear diff?
 

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