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2000 Ford Ranger 4.0 major electrical issues


gpmiller78

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2016
Messages
6
City
Dillsburg, PA
Vehicle Year
2000 body, fram
Transmission
Manual
Guys,

I need help. I just picked up a 2000 ford ranger ext cab xlt. it has the 4.0 with automatic. Got it cheap due to supposedly had bad motor. Put a new battery in and the thing went hay wire. Horn came on along with abs pump, cruise control relay, and parking lights. Also if you turn the key to on the wipers go on with the washer fluid pump. The crazy part is I disconnected the PCM and it still does it.

Thank you
 
"They" warned us about the Y2K virus back in 1999. Never new it would be delayed this long. :icon_twisted::icon_twisted: Sounds like a bizarre security system. Sorry I can't be helpful on this one.
 
Guys,

I need help. I just picked up a 2000 ford ranger ext cab xlt. it has the 4.0 with automatic. Got it cheap due to supposedly had bad motor. Put a new battery in and the thing went hay wire. Horn came on along with abs pump, cruise control relay, and parking lights. Also if you turn the key to on the wipers go on with the washer fluid pump. The crazy part is I disconnected the PCM and it still does it.

Thank you

That sounds rather wild.

I'm not very familiar yet with the electronic modules in the newer Rangers, but I'll throw out some theories. The parking lights (and presumably the headlights) and the horn would all be tied together with the anti-theft system, with a module. The ABS pump would be controlled by an ABS module. The wipers probably have a delay-module associated with them. The cruise control is a module as well.

Are all of the above-mentioned theoretical modules combined into a single physical module? If so, that's far-and-away the most likely suspect.

If there are a few separate modules involved, then I'd be much less likely to suspect individual modules or the communication system between them, unless the vehicle has been struck by lightning or something. At that point I'd start inspecting the wiring harnesses in the engine bay and under the dash for modifications or damage. Also look for evidence of flood damage at that time (but I'd expect flood damage to result in non-functioning systems, not over-functioning systems).

I wouldn't be too surprised to find an aftermarket anti-theft or remote-start system in there somewhere, or even a stereo system, that looks (and works) as if it were installed by a blind man wielding a hatchet.
 
Have you checked to make sure the battery is connected correctly?
 
Did you by chance run a Carfax on the truck? Not plugging for them or anything but, after 3 major hurricanes with flooding in more than 2 states I am very leery of any 'great deals' on any late(?) model vehicle.

The problems you describe sound an awful lot like water logged or corroded modules and/or wiring. Once a vehicle has been submerged the only way even possible to salvage it without nightmarish issues down the road is to strip it to the bare chassis. Rip out ALL the electrical/electronic components & wiring, rip out ALL shreds of the interior and any insulation or padding and throw it all away. Pull the engine, transmission, and axle(s) and have them gone through completely, have the chassis and body completely cleaned and treated for rust and corrosion and THEN put the truck back together with all new parts. Anything short of that and you can count on rust, corrosion, mold, mildew and God only knows what else down the road. And that is not a total guarantee that it might not happen anyway.
Doesn't make that "good deal " quite so good does it?

Just something to think about. Personally I'd check the wiring and connections for corrosion and work from there. Best of luck to you my friend.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. Turned out I was half retarded. I put a new battery in the truck not realizing that the battery was manufactured backwards. So I had the terminals crossed. Realized it when I got the volt meter out and kept reading negative voltage. :pissedoff::pissedoff::pissedoff:
 

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