2.9 ignition problem

[RustedRanger]

Check the plugin on the coil,mine was bad and by just moving it around my truck wouldn't start and would change the way it ran moving the plugin once running. Normally not touching the gas pedal on a fuel injected car while starting is correct but I have had more than one vehicle that when something was screwed up they would start by giving it gas pedal.

 

[chaos1n3]

I tried a quick swap of the ignition coil...no difference. Put the old one back in.
Got the test light out, verified light worked on battery. No response at all at the ignition coil.
If I followed the electrical right, that means no power will go to the distributor, correct? So problem lies between the battery and the ignition coil?
I went back to the battery to start tracing the power, and I am now stumped.

The bolt on the right showed power, but the bolt on the left showed nothing. Is this correct? What is this? Any other directions to pursue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
j.

 

[Big Jim M]

Yes that is correct. That is the starter solenoid. One cable is hot always the other is hot only to turn the starter.
Big Jim

 

[BlackBII]

No Spark?

I would look into testing the TFI module on the back of the Distributor.

 

[chaos1n3]

Just went out poking around some more. I pulled the plug going to the ignition coil. When checking with the test light, the red wires lit when the engine was cranked. The green wire gave me nothing with any configuration. When looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like this runs to the TFI. Upon further inspection, the green wire appeared cracked, as did the plug. I removed the plug, and when trying to look at the wire, pulled the connector off the end. I'm off to get a new plug and connector.

 

[chaos1n3]

repaired the plug...no difference. getting ready to attack the TFI/distributor.
Reading through the TFI diagnostic page, I'm wondering if it wouldn't just be easier to change out the whole distributor.
j.

 

[BlackBII]

repaired the plug...no difference. getting ready to attack the TFI/distributor.
Reading through the TFI diagnostic page, I'm wondering if it wouldn't just be easier to change out the whole distributor.
j.

Pulling the TFI is easy, and a competent Auto Parts store monkey can test it to see if its good. Or you can buy one and throw it on there to see if it works or not, then return it if necessary.

There are two bolts holding it to the back of the Dizzy, you need one of these to get at the bolts.

This wrench is the only way to remove and replace a TFI module. It is a special 7/32″ (5.5mm) socket with a very thin wall. The older design is smaller and used with a ¼ inch drive socket set. The design changed to this newer model with plastic handle. In some rare occasions the TFI bolts will have a T-20 head; you can get a top of the line ratcheted TFI tool that has a 7/32″ (5.5mm) end and a T-20 end. The TFI never needs to be torqued down with a socket set, so the simple plastic handle design is great and simple to use. To remove the TFI simply remove the two bolts, and slide the module downward. You MUST slide the TFI down before you pull it away from the distributor or it won’t come off correctly.

 

[chaos1n3]

awesome...thank you. Closest auto parts store is 30 minutes away, so this one may have to wait until tomorrow after work, or my next day off. If I go into Autozone or Advance, will they know the tool I'm referencing?
Thanks for the help.
j.

 

[BlackBII]

awesome...thank you. Closest auto parts store is 30 minutes away, so this one may have to wait until tomorrow after work, or my next day off. If I go into Autozone or Advance, will they know the tool I'm referencing?
Thanks for the help.
j.

I have no faith in AutoZone employees, so I'll say no. But...I know it's hanging up in their Tools section, seen it before.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

take the wire from the coil where it plugs into the dizzy put a spark plug in it and ground the plug and have someone crank on it it should spark rapidly if it does then it is in the cap and rotor or wires. To check the coil keep the plug in the coil wire grounded turn the key on and take a jumper wire from the negative side of the coil and touch it to ground you should get spark every time you touch it to ground quick touches dont hold it there. let us know what you find out either way.

 

[chaos1n3]

had the TFI checked at autozone tonight. checked OK. going to do the spark test tomorrow morning. if that goes OK, what else could be left but the distributor?
Thanks for everyones help.
j.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

had the TFI checked at autozone tonight. checked OK. going to do the spark test tomorrow morning. if that goes OK, what else could be left but the distributor?
Thanks for everyones help.
j.

the pickup coil in the distributor..

but you've already said there was NO power to the coil. check the fuses, or you might need to test the ignition switch.

if you have 12volts getting to the coil on the positive side and NO pulsed ground then its distributor related.

 

[chaos1n3]

GOT IT STARTED!!!
Went to Autozone and had them test the ignition module. I had 2 modules and they both tested OK. This morning I tried to put the original one on, and I just couldn't get the pins to line up, so I grabbed my back-up. It popped right on (after about 15 minutes fiddling with the bolts) and I tightened it down. I told my wife to go up and listen to the engine to see if she heard anything different and VROOOOOMMMMM!!!!! It fired right up.
Kind of kills my faith in Autozone's testing machines, but just glad to have my truck running again.
Thanks to everyone for all the advice and direction.
j.