2.8L Keeps leaking oil at front of oil pan

[wildbill23c]

Ok, so I just got the B2 back a couple days ago from having the rear main seal and new pan gaskets installed (2nd time on the pan gaskets). The rear main seal works, however it still pukes oil out of the front of the oil pan around the crank. Anyone have experience and ideas on how to fix this? I'm gonna double check the bolts here after it cools off, but I'm thinking since this is the 2nd time this has happened there has to be more to it than just gaskets or not being installed properly.

 

[dangerranger83]

Sounds like you need a new front crank seal.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[wildbill23c]

What all is involved in replacing the crank seal? Is it a 1 or 2 piece seal? Looks like a pain to do like everything else in these trucks LOL.

 

[enginepaul]

Front seal is one piece, looks like a wheel bearing seal. It can be done with the engine in the truck 'easily'. Once you get the dampener off, the seal can be removed with a tool designed for the purpose and installed with another Rotunda tool. I have the tools, so it wasn't hard but there are people here that say you don't need the tools and I agree that it is possible, just harder.
The actual time, once the dampener is removed is only about ten minutes using the factory tools. Your results may vary. Most of the time is in removing all the stuff to get at the seal - and then putting it all back.

I don't think I would use the same person who did the rear seal; they weren't looking or didn't know much. The front takes less time than the rear because you don't need to remove the transmission and flywheel.

 

[wildbill23c]

Well when I'm on a budget and don't have tools the person who did the work at the high school did just fine. Its parked again due to a crack in the radiator where the top radiator hose connection goes into the radiator. If it ain't one thing its another. The bolts in the front of the oil pan were lose so I took them out and put some lock-tite on them and put them back in, then found the leak in the radiator.

 

[RonD]

Often when replacing a front or rear main seal you(or someone else) can scratch the crank where the seal will ride.
This shortens the life of the new seal, like rubbing sandpaper on it on each revolution.

You can buy sleeve kits for this problem, the kit comes with a sleeve that fits on the crank tightly and an oversize seal for the new larger size shaft, they work quite well and are not expensive.

 

[wildbill23c]

Often when replacing a front or rear main seal you(or someone else) can scratch the crank where the seal will ride.
This shortens the life of the new seal, like rubbing sandpaper on it on each revolution.

You can buy sleeve kits for this problem, the kit comes with a sleeve that fits on the crank tightly and an oversize seal for the new larger size shaft, they work quite well and are not expensive.

Ok, when I get the radiator leak repaired, I'll check into the front crank seal, and be prepared with a sheave as well. It almost looks like there's a gape between the oil pan and bottom of the engine but all the bolts are tight and the gaskets are intact. Oh, well I did buy this thing as a project. It hasn't let me forget the "Project" word .

Thanks everyone as always, I always know I can count on TRS members to know their stuff.

 

[drgrcr]

I had a bad oil leak at the front on mine that turned out to be the fuel pump. Was leaking around a tin plate the was staked to the pump. Took the pump of and applied a JB Weld around the plate and cured it. It was leaking bad enough that it would cover the tail gate with a film of oil in a 50 mile road trip.

 

[wildbill23c]

I had a bad oil leak at the front on mine that turned out to be the fuel pump. Was leaking around a tin plate the was staked to the pump. Took the pump of and applied a JB Weld around the plate and cured it. It was leaking bad enough that it would cover the tail gate with a film of oil in a 50 mile road trip.

Mine is definitely engine oil, its not gas pouring out, its oil lol.

 

[RonD]

Mine is definitely engine oil, its not gas pouring out, its oil lol.

I think he meant oil was leaking from around the mechanical fuel pumps plate where it bolts to the block.

 

[wildbill23c]

RonD,

Ahh that sounds more better than what I was thinking LOL.

Anyhow I'll be pulling the radiator hopefully this afternoon and taking it to a shop to have it repaired, they quoted $45-60 to braze or weld the crack. Beats the cost of a replacement $230 radiator.

 

[enginepaul]

While the radiator is out you will have more room to work on the crank.

This is a rusted version of the installation tool
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item5af4621d06&vxp=mtr

 

[wildbill23c]

Kind of what I'm thinking, gotta take the radiator out here soon and replace it completely, just doing a temporary JB weld fix to get me through this week and hopefully next to save up enough money to get a new radiator or get someone to help me tear out the old radiator and get the one put in that I was given by a fellow TRS member, just hoping it turns out to be the right radiator as it has I'm guessing ports for an automatic transmission cooler, so I'm not sure if it would work with mine or not as mine is a manual transmission.

That tool is a bit rusty for sure LOL. What would I need to get the seal out without damaging anything on the engine?

 

[enginepaul]

All replacement radiators are the same on these Rangers; you just don't hook up cooler lines.
You could try sheet-metal screws; screw into the metal part of the seal and pull out with pliers.

 

[wildbill23c]

Good to know on the radiator. Going to try and get the radiator out Sunday, then see if I can work on getting the old seal out and changed, then drop in this other radiator. I'm going to try and fill that radiator with just water and make sure nothing comes pouring out LOL.