• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

2.8 or 2.9 performance??


To improve any engine, cam it, port, polish, bore it, stroke it, bigger injectors, bigger carb, bigger intake, bigger TB, headers, etc...

Those are the basics and if those aren't the answers you were hoping for then sorry about your luck.

I'm also glad the army provides you with what you need to fix what it may be you need to fix and no questions need be asked. But theres a reason why you are asking the basic questions, its because the knowledge was never provided to you our given to you hince why you went to others for an answer and got responce that you weren't expecting. Sorry its not what you wanted to hear.

Sent from my SGH-T499 using Tapatalk 2
 
10Strokin, some things that I've seen done to a 2.9 to increase performance were: opening up the air box, going with K&N filter, free floating the rocker arms, and porting & polishing the intake and exhaust.

The great this is this: those kind of mods can be done with EFI or carb, which makes them definitely helpful in your case.
 
My truck is a 4X4, so whoever asked if it was going to be a slammed racy truck which will never haul a load again can bite my nads.

Take off your rage goggles my friend, I was trying to defend you, or maybe you skimmed over my post.:dunno: I had pointed out that there are PLENTY of people with non- traditional engine configurations on here and that is was PERFECTLY reasonable for you to try something other than the 4.0/5.0 swap formula, and that not EVERYONE uses their TRUCK as a TRUCK. Some people do slam them, some people tow with them, some people make prerunners.

So bite your own nads.

And thanks for serving our country.
 
Holy Hell, check out MoranaV6Racing.com...all kinds of proven performance parts for 2.9 V6! Hmmmmmm...


You went from "I found the biggest pair of t!tties you've ever seen" to "toss the loud-mouthed b!tch out of the car." What happened there?

Snoranger, look twice at the pic u sent, it is from the "stupid" Morana Racing Website!


You can pretty much drop a 2.9l distributor right into a 4.0l, with the right oil pump and driveshaft. There is a place to put one, its got an oil pump drive (or a cam sync on the later ones.)in the hole. You said to "show a carb and dist on a 4.0l". I showed you that it CAN be done with available parts. That was my point.

I agree though, that "intake" isnt well designed. (OK, its a pile of sh!t that would probably starve the front cylinders.)


I'll repeat my RATIONAL thought that you ignored....
Find a set of Cosworth DOHC 2.9l heads. If I ever come across a set of them, I'll build another supercharged 2.9l just for the hell of it.

Good luck, Let us know what you find.
 
WOW!! drcrgr and Insanejughead actually put together logical posts!! Maybe we should keep this thread going after all...I CAN CARE LESS about 4.0 and 5.0. AS I STATED EARLIER, if i wanted to know about an engine swap, I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS THREAD IN THAT SECTION! What is the title of this thread, 2.8 or 2.9 performance, NOT 4.0 OR 5.0 SWAPS!!! How this simple fact doesnt register in a so called "Approved Tech Advisors" head is beyond my scope of imagination. The NO BULLSHIT zone is comical at best, Indefensible at worst there AllanD. Snoranger, look twice at the pic u sent, it is from the "stupid" Morana Racing Website! I wonder how that would fit under the hood of anything!? I DID NOT however see a DISTRIBUTOR like i asked because THERE IS NOWHERE TO PUT ONE! When i want to spend 1000 dollars on a stand alone ignition system for a 4.0, I will pull out my AR15 and end my misery. Why I would have to defend myself on a site like this is reprehensible when I asked a simple question that NO ONE has answered yet.
Drgrcr, i would like to follow your thread, where can I find it? TO ALL: My truck is my daily driver, I cannot afford Nor do I have the time to take it off the road for weeks at a time trying to figure out electrical nightmares and bullshit with engine swaps. THIS IS WHY I AM STICKING TO 2.8 OR 2.9 ENGINES. A turbo with the correct cam, (slightly bigger than stock) will transform pulling power WITHOUT going nuts. My truck is a 4X4, so whoever asked if it was going to be a slammed racy truck which will never haul a load again can bite my nads. I can rebuild an engine practically in my sleep, Being in a tank command unit in the Army field stripping an M1 power unit and installing a new one in less than 3 hours running is great teaching. TRY THAT SOMETIME THERE AllanD. So engine building is NOT A PROBLEM. What i ORIGINALLY asked here was for performance tips and tricks for 2.8 AND 2.9 engines. If anyone can put together a rational thought on THIS QUESTION ALONE, I welcome it.

Swapping in an RFI power unit on an M1 only proves that you have the parts, equipment and training, technically the only thing different from assembling it at the factory is you have t take the old one out.

But this has NO bearing on performance modifications to a 2.8/2.9

AND if you had mentioned from the very beginning that you intended to turbocharge the engine I would have MOVED this topic to the "Forced Induction" forum with no comment other than a "good luck".

Your original question was:
Which do you guys think is easier to build more performance out of, 2.8 carbed engine, or 2.9 fuelie? I have seen videos of both on youtube, but i want you guys real world opinions.....Thanks!

And the simple answer without elaborate embellishment is it isn't.

Your question is based on the demonstrably false premise that either engine is easily improved and the fact is that they aren't.

Both engines are "Crack monsters"
I've never seen a 2.9 block that was not warped, it's block warpage that is one of the principle causes of heads cracking.

2.8 engines are far worse.

It is both easier and cheaper to swap in a 4.0 to get 160hp than it is to modify a 2.9 to make 160hp.

If I offend anyone by dispelling their dilusions? Well that's just too damned bad.

I will NOT say "I'm sorry", because doing that is my primary responsibility here

and if I save ONE person from wasting their time attempting the impossible/impractical while offending several others, that's a
trade-off I can easily accept.


As for your claim that I am contradicting myself, how are you going to install a turbo on a 2.8 without a lot of additional plumbing? nice in theory, a bit harder in practical reality...

Turbo's get hot and melt things...

With the limitations you state that:
My truck is my daily driver, I cannot afford Nor do I have the time to take it off the road for weeks at a time trying to figure out electrical nightmares and bullshit with engine swaps.

Simple answer? you can't, because "modifying your engine" is no more practical to do while keeping the truck driveable than it is to replace the engine.

So if the vehicle MUST be sidelined.... See my logic?

are you getting over your attitude to actually start to understand?

When I did my 4.0 swap it took me a solid month to deal with the wiring.
BUT it actually all worked when I was done. (I had one small issue with a loose ground wire)

One more time: What you are asking for, to NOT sideline your vehicle for weeks (plural) AND get any material improvement in power simply is not possible no matter which method you choose to persue for that goal.
SO presupposing that the truck MUST be side-lined for weeks an engine swap is GUARANTEED to give you positive results.

"Successful attempts" to improve a 2.9 are subjective, anecdotal and hear-say from third parties.

Attempts to materially improve a 2.8 are quite frankly "turd polishing"

Hey, I don't want to fight or argue I'm just trying REAL HARD to keep you from wasting your time.

So relax and chill.

10Strokin, some things that I've seen done to a 2.9 to increase performance were: opening up the air box, going with K&N filter, free floating the rocker arms, and porting & polishing the intake and exhaust.

The great this is this: those kind of mods can be done with EFI or carb, which makes them definitely helpful in your case.

Opening the airbox to allow in more hot air from the engine compartment helps how exactly?

K&N filters have been repeatedly proven to not filter nearly as well and make ni increases in power unless they are compared to a filter that's literally caked with mud.

Free floating the rockers? I have yet to hear a rational explanation how this improves power.... SVEN PRUITT did it to keep the rockers in place at RPM's the typical RANGER engine is never gonna see...
 
Free floating the rockers? I have yet to hear a rational explanation how this improves power.... SVEN PRUITT did it to keep the rockers in place at RPM's the typical RANGER engine is never gonna see...

OK, bit of a threadjack/detour, but if this is such a pointless mod, why is it in our tech library, and how do things end up in our tech library? I'm serious, not trolling here. Seeing somethings like shower drain adapters to slap a cone on your intake, or the free floating mod mentioned above ( http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Kunz_Korner.htm and endorsed by the site's founder at the top) kinda make me wonder sometimes who's right, the people doing these mods - like e-fans, coil upgrades, and the rockers - or the people like you who like to point out that the factory coil paks are sufficient, and that e-fans use more energy via the alternator than a clutch fan uses. Personally, I'm a bit leery on the thermostat temp change thing myself.

I'm not knocking you, but sometimes I get a little confused when the tech library, which is someplace I assume is a collection of generally agreeably accurate info - and the threads with Premium Members, Ford Technicians, and Tech Advisors all say sometimes contradictory things.
 
Free floating the rockers? I have yet to hear a rational explanation how this improves power.... SVEN PRUITT did it to keep the rockers in place at RPM's the typical RANGER engine is never gonna see...

Reduced friction (those springs put a decent amount of pressure on the rockers)... The less power that is wasted to move the internal parts of the engine, the more useable power there is at the crank. It may be minimal at best, but it is an increase. As a self-proclaimed engineer, you should know that.
 
OK, bit of a threadjack/detour, but if this is such a pointless mod, why is it in our tech library, and how do things end up in our tech library? I'm serious, not trolling here. Seeing somethings like shower drain adapters to slap a cone on your intake, or the free floating mod mentioned above ( http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Kunz_Korner.htm and endorsed by the site's founder at the top) kinda make me wonder sometimes who's right, the people doing these mods - like e-fans, coil upgrades, and the rockers - or the people like you who like to point out that the factory coil paks are sufficient, and that e-fans use more energy via the alternator than a clutch fan uses. Personally, I'm a bit leery on the thermostat temp change thing myself.

I'm not knocking you, but sometimes I get a little confused when the tech library, which is someplace I assume is a collection of generally agreeably accurate info - and the threads with Premium Members, Ford Technicians, and Tech Advisors all say sometimes contradictory things.

Because some people think some things are "the greatest thing since sliced bread and bottled beer" (Personally I prefer my beer on draught and my fresh baked bread torn, not sliced LOL)

Premium Members are members who PAY for the forum.
Tech advisors are technical staff.

Articles about various things are about DOING the mod more than they are about what the mod accomplishes...

And many aftermarket parts are hyped by the people selling them, people who need their families to eat.... which might not happen if they told the truth.

I have no financial dog in any of those fights

as for aftermarket coils there's exactly ONE reason I'd buy one for my 4.0...
If the contacts iside the towers are Copper or brass instead of the stock aluminum I'd be inclined to buy it... but that isn't a "performance thing" but a
"reliability thing" I've had a stock EDIS6 coil fail because one of the aluminum tower contacts corroded itself into uselessness.

On my Old Saab I like the FACTORY electric fans, but when I actually drive that car (it's currently all apart) I physically remove the cooling fans in the fall and don't reinstall them until the spring, because that car simply will not overheat if it's moving (aerodynamics forces sufficient air through the radiator)

COOLER thermostats can run an engine cooler, but this has unintended consequences on an EFI engine that actually knows what the engine temperature is (like a 1993-up 4.0) and the engine management computer doesn't like it when you mess with things...

AD
 
Because some people think some things are "the greatest thing since sliced bread and bottled beer" (Personally I prefer my beer on draught and my fresh baked bread torn, not sliced LOL)

Premium Members are members who PAY for the forum.
Tech advisors are technical staff.

Articles about various things are about DOING the mod more than they are about what the mod accomplishes...
And many aftermarket parts are hyped by the people selling them, people who need their families to eat.... which might not happen if they told the truth.

I have no financial dog in any of those fights

as for aftermarket coils there's exactly ONE reason I'd buy one for my 4.0...
If the contacts iside the towers are Copper or brass instead of the stock aluminum I'd be inclined to buy it... but that isn't a "performance thing" but a
"reliability thing" I've had a stock EDIS6 coil fail because one of the aluminum tower contacts corroded itself into uselessness.

On my Old Saab I like the FACTORY electric fans, but when I actually drive that car (it's currently all apart) I physically remove the cooling fans in the fall and don't reinstall them until the spring, because that car simply will not overheat if it's moving (aerodynamics forces sufficient air through the radiator)

COOLER thermostats can run an engine cooler, but this has unintended consequences on an EFI engine that actually knows what the engine temperature is (like a 1993-up 4.0) and the engine management computer doesn't like it when you mess with things...

AD

Alrighty, thanks. Just sorta bemusing to see writeups about E-fans and intake modifications when the general consensus is that they're not worth it.
 
Alrighty, thanks. Just sorta bemusing to see writeups about E-fans and intake modifications when the general consensus is that they're not worth it.

Simple answer? I'm not responsible for the tech pages.
 
Last edited:
Arguing with a engineer is like wrestling with a pig in mud, you both will get muddy and the pig likes it.

To simplify the 2.9 if your not into tricking the computer into a limited amount of any improvements, I thought it might be interesting to fabricate an upper intake plenum that would accept a Ford 2100 style 2 barrel only mount the carb sideways so that the fuel distribution would be a litter more even. A distributor out of a 78 2.8 Mustang II should fall into place in the 2.9 distributor hole, then you could use a Duraspark ignition system or what ever your flavor is for ignition systems. Then you can calibrate the ign. and fuel curve to meet your truck and your driving style. Just a thought, and thanks for the military service to our country.
 
Arguing with a engineer is like wrestling with a pig in mud, you both will get muddy and the pig likes it.

To simplify the 2.9 if your not into tricking the computer into a limited amount of any improvements, I thought it might be interesting to fabricate an upper intake plenum that would accept a Ford 2100 style 2 barrel only mount the carb sideways so that the fuel distribution would be a litter more even. A distributor out of a 78 2.8 Mustang II should fall into place in the 2.9 distributor hole, then you could use a Duraspark ignition system or what ever your flavor is for ignition systems. Then you can calibrate the ign. and fuel curve to meet your truck and your driving style. Just a thought, and thanks for the military service to our country.

a 2.8 distributer will "Drop in" but it won't work right because the cam is GEAR driven on a 2.8 and chain driven on a 2.9... so the cam rotates in the opposite direction... which is a major whoops!

AD
 
(**This is to reiterate something for the sake of those searching the forums for distributor information for 2.8 and 2.9**)

+1 on what AllanD said about the distributors between 2.8 and 2.9. BIG NO NO!
 
James86, I reread your post and I want to be the first to apologize, you were on my side, I dont know why there are sides here but I do appreciate it...Snoranger, the reason I said "stupid" for Morana Racing is because AllanD said anyone that pays thousands for aftermarket stuff from Morana is "stupid". Drcrgr I am liking your idea of trying to carburete a 2.9, very innovative! If you can figure out how to get the distributor to work, all the better. Do you have a thread started on what you have one so far to get the better mileage? AllanD, I have a spare 2.8 and 2.9 engine on my garage floor. I also have a test engine stand that I put together. I asked the question on here between the 2.8 and 2.9 so I knew which one to tear down and start building. When i am done, it will be test run on the stand eliminating any problems BEFORE installation...Over your "assuming" attitude enough to start to understand? I have been a member of Gator Superchargers here in Bradenton Floria for years now. One of the first things we learned here is to use a TOO SMALL turbo for your engine. Free Air and you can always wastegate it. What this TOO SMALL theory does is spool up the turbo immediately, eliminating lag, thus KEEPING the RPM and Torque range of the engine nearly stock. You will see that I mentioned Squires turbo in my last post. Squires turbo's are mounted Under the vehicle towards the back with a seperate oil pump for itself. Therefore ELIMINATING the HOT underhood temps and keeping the heat away from the Crack Prone heads. What people pay thousands of dollars on plumbing for turbo's on, can actually be done with simple PVC pipe and Fernco clamps saving many hundreds..."THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX". This is also taught in the Gator Superchargers club. Everyone should join and have a read. Old Studebaker and AMC turbo engines running 7 and 8 quarters on the cheap. Insanejughead and Drcrgr, keep the ideas flowing......
 
If you can adapt a 2.9 dizzy gear to a 2.8 dizzy then you might be good. My only thing is the duraspark setup is great but I have had a unit fail within 6 months hince why after my next engine swap, I'm going HEI. If I had to pick between the two engines, our would be the 2.8. Solid lifters, timing gears that can be upgraded to metal ones, and if you want to go FI, you can do it to it by means of doing a tbi swap and if thats not enough, put mega squirt system on it, into the factory tbi, and boost it, or you can keep it carbed.

Sent from my SGH-T499 using Tapatalk 2
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top