WOW!! drcrgr and Insanejughead actually put together logical posts!! Maybe we should keep this thread going after all...I CAN CARE LESS about 4.0 and 5.0. AS I STATED EARLIER, if i wanted to know about an engine swap, I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS THREAD IN THAT SECTION! What is the title of this thread, 2.8 or 2.9 performance, NOT 4.0 OR 5.0 SWAPS!!! How this simple fact doesnt register in a so called "Approved Tech Advisors" head is beyond my scope of imagination. The NO BULLSHIT zone is comical at best, Indefensible at worst there AllanD. Snoranger, look twice at the pic u sent, it is from the "stupid" Morana Racing Website! I wonder how that would fit under the hood of anything!? I DID NOT however see a DISTRIBUTOR like i asked because THERE IS NOWHERE TO PUT ONE! When i want to spend 1000 dollars on a stand alone ignition system for a 4.0, I will pull out my AR15 and end my misery. Why I would have to defend myself on a site like this is reprehensible when I asked a simple question that NO ONE has answered yet.
Drgrcr, i would like to follow your thread, where can I find it? TO ALL: My truck is my daily driver, I cannot afford Nor do I have the time to take it off the road for weeks at a time trying to figure out electrical nightmares and bullshit with engine swaps. THIS IS WHY I AM STICKING TO 2.8 OR 2.9 ENGINES. A turbo with the correct cam, (slightly bigger than stock) will transform pulling power WITHOUT going nuts. My truck is a 4X4, so whoever asked if it was going to be a slammed racy truck which will never haul a load again can bite my nads. I can rebuild an engine practically in my sleep, Being in a tank command unit in the Army field stripping an M1 power unit and installing a new one in less than 3 hours running is great teaching. TRY THAT SOMETIME THERE AllanD. So engine building is NOT A PROBLEM. What i ORIGINALLY asked here was for performance tips and tricks for 2.8 AND 2.9 engines. If anyone can put together a rational thought on THIS QUESTION ALONE, I welcome it.
Swapping in an RFI power unit on an M1 only proves that you have the parts, equipment and training, technically the only thing different from assembling it at the factory is you have t take the old one out.
But this has NO bearing on performance modifications to a 2.8/2.9
AND if you had mentioned from the very beginning that you intended to turbocharge the engine I would have MOVED this topic to the "Forced Induction" forum with no comment other than a "good luck".
Your original question was:
Which do you guys think is easier to build more performance out of, 2.8 carbed engine, or 2.9 fuelie? I have seen videos of both on youtube, but i want you guys real world opinions.....Thanks!
And the simple answer without elaborate embellishment is it isn't.
Your question is based on the demonstrably false premise that either engine is easily improved and the fact is that they aren't.
Both engines are "Crack monsters"
I've never seen a 2.9 block that was not warped, it's block warpage that is one of the principle causes of heads cracking.
2.8 engines are far worse.
It is both easier and cheaper to swap in a 4.0 to get 160hp than it is to modify a 2.9 to make 160hp.
If I offend anyone by dispelling their dilusions? Well that's just too damned bad.
I will NOT say "I'm sorry", because doing that is my primary responsibility here
and if I save ONE person from wasting their time attempting the impossible/impractical while offending several others, that's a
trade-off I can easily accept.
As for your claim that I am contradicting myself, how are you going to install a turbo on a 2.8 without a lot of additional plumbing? nice in theory, a bit harder in practical reality...
Turbo's get hot and melt things...
With the limitations you state that:
My truck is my daily driver, I cannot afford Nor do I have the time to take it off the road for weeks at a time trying to figure out electrical nightmares and bullshit with engine swaps.
Simple answer? you can't, because "modifying your engine" is no more practical to do while keeping the truck driveable than it is to replace the engine.
So if the vehicle MUST be sidelined.... See my logic?
are you getting over your attitude to actually start to understand?
When I did my 4.0 swap it took me a solid month to deal with the wiring.
BUT it actually all worked when I was done. (I had one small issue with a loose ground wire)
One more time: What you are asking for, to NOT sideline your vehicle for weeks (plural) AND get any material improvement in power simply is not possible no matter which method you choose to persue for that goal.
SO presupposing that the truck MUST be side-lined for weeks an engine swap is GUARANTEED to give you positive results.
"Successful attempts" to improve a 2.9 are subjective, anecdotal and hear-say from third parties.
Attempts to materially improve a 2.8 are quite frankly "turd polishing"
Hey, I don't want to fight or argue I'm just trying REAL HARD to keep you from wasting your time.
So relax and chill.
10Strokin, some things that I've seen done to a 2.9 to increase performance were: opening up the air box, going with K&N filter, free floating the rocker arms, and porting & polishing the intake and exhaust.
The great this is this: those kind of mods can be done with EFI or carb, which makes them definitely helpful in your case.
Opening the airbox to allow in more hot air from the engine compartment helps how exactly?
K&N filters have been repeatedly proven to not filter nearly as well and make ni increases in power unless they are compared to a filter that's literally caked with mud.
Free floating the rockers? I have yet to hear a rational explanation how this improves power.... SVEN PRUITT did it to keep the rockers in place at RPM's the typical RANGER engine is never gonna see...