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2.5 head on 2.3 block


Providing an update got everything back on and the truck starts but shuts right back off were thinking its the fuel pump or something of that nature i've already taken off the bed and hopefully its the fuel pump relay is working but my dad doesn't here a sound coming from pump. any other scenario would cause it to cut on but shut back off ?

the fuel pump will only turn on for a few seconds and if you're not hearing anything you can try swapping the relays...if that doesn't work then it could be the pump is pooched. You can remove them and test in a bucket with fuel in it...there is a risk to that so be careful not to spray fuel all over the place...like I did a few times...lol

If it is starting but then dying it could be fuel pressure issues...pump not turning on or maybe inertia switch is tripped. The inertia switch is on the firewall inside...near the passenger side...I think we went over that though.

If you have a vacuum tester you can use that to test fuel pressure...just use the valve on the fuel line on the intake side...if it is under pressure you should wear eye protection when working on that...see if there is pressure there.
 
Looks good...:icon_thumby:

Nice work!

Thanks ! so we got bed off and the fuel pump is defiantly poopy so i'm gonna switch it tomorrow hopefully that will solve everything i can wait to get this baby a nice paint job i'm thinking ford basic oxford white or a nice burgundy red.
 
Yes, that will be nice...I never worried too much about how mine looked because I knew it was in better shape than most of the nice looking ones and I could rely on it to get me where I wanted to go...and maybe help some of those people left stranded by their nice looking vehicles that broke down or wouldn't start...:)

Anyway...hope the fuel pump is the problem...did you check the inertia switch to make sure it wasn't tripped or did you just test the fuel pump?
 
Take a look at "Dark Canyon Red" vs Burgundy. It is not 'fire engine' red, but more in the burgundy range. Take red and add some black so it isn't so flashy. It's my trucks favorite color.

You might want to check the PIP or equivalent signal from the ignition that lets the computer know the engine is running. If the signal is compromised, the compute will remove power from the pump relay, and thus the pump. Fuel pressure in the injection rail will quickly drop to zero, and the engine will shut down.
Before chasing a pump, I'd check that the pressure is there or not, and check the power on the rollover to see if the computer is cutting power or it is a pump fail. A failed pump would maybe not like to develop pressure at all, and the engine would not even start, much less run for a few seconds.
tom
 
Ahhh check the Inertia switch its good, sorry for the miscommunication but the truck doesn't even start without the use of starting fluid if no starter fluid the truck turns over but no start i checked the fuel pump and i have a good feeling its done for. I am gonna pick one up tomorrow and hopefully the truck will start we shall see. Also im gonna check that paint color it sounds pretty awesome. at least since i have the bed off i can sand down rails and hit them with rust reformer, primer and finish up with a rubber coating that stops rust also.
 
Yes, that will be nice...I never worried too much about how mine looked because I knew it was in better shape than most of the nice looking ones and I could rely on it to get me where I wanted to go...and maybe help some of those people left stranded by their nice looking vehicles that broke down or wouldn't start...:)

Anyway...hope the fuel pump is the problem...did you check the inertia switch to make sure it wasn't tripped or did you just test the fuel pump?


So i changed fuel pump and fuel pump relay and it still wont stay on, what its doing is when i start revs all the way up than turns off every time.
 
Sounds like a vacuum leak...huge vacuum leak...but it might be something in the controls...like it is not getting the right timing information...

Are you still using everything from the original 1991 electronics like computer, coil packs, and did you change the crank pulley or even have to pull it off to install the timing belt or did you leave that in place?
 
Sounds like a vacuum leak...huge vacuum leak...but it might be something in the controls...like it is not getting the right timing information...

Are you still using everything from the original 1991 electronics like computer, coil packs, and did you change the crank pulley or even have to pull it off to install the timing belt or did you leave that in place?

I was thinking a vacuum leak as well and yes everything im using is the same crank pulley and coil packs are same.
 
OK, I had to go read up on this year engine to see what might be affecting it. I'm a bit out of my league since I never actually trouble shot one of these but they are fairly simple.

The computer needs input to set timing so the sensors need to be working and sending the information...crank, cam and temp sensors it looks like...so check their wiring...your engine timing could even be out 180 degrees and the engine will still run...that happened to me the first time I tried to set my 88 timing.

does the Crank pulley have a notch in it indicating TDC? You can eyeball the piston through the plug hole but that could make your timing out if you don't ensure the notch on the crank pulley is pointing to TDC.

Not sure if this year has a SPOUT connector...if it does make sure it has been put back to...my Haynes is still outside and I know it covers this model year so I might have to check that...

I've checked my troubleshooting notes but not seeing anything that I've saved...so you may need to get input from someone with more familiarity with the 1991...check again for leaks and connections...double check the timing for TDC and the notch on the pulley.

If in doubt, plug up all vacuum lines...see if that helps...look for or listen for air sucking in through the intake...but that may require multiple starts so maybe enlist the aide of someone to do the cranking for you.

I will go outside to get my Haynes if I can't find anything online...
 
OK, I had to go read up on this year engine to see what might be affecting it. I'm a bit out of my league since I never actually trouble shot one of these but they are fairly simple.

The computer needs input to set timing so the sensors need to be working and sending the information...crank, cam and temp sensors it looks like...so check their wiring...your engine timing could even be out 180 degrees and the engine will still run...that happened to me the first time I tried to set my 88 timing.


does the Crank pulley have a notch in it indicating TDC? You can eyeball the piston through the plug hole but that could make your timing out if you don't ensure the notch on the crank pulley is pointing to TDC.

Not sure if this year has a SPOUT connector...if it does make sure it has been put back to...my Haynes is still outside and I know it covers this model year so I might have to check that...

I've checked my troubleshooting notes but not seeing anything that I've saved...so you may need to get input from someone with more familiarity with the 1991...check again for leaks and connections...double check the timing for TDC and the notch on the pulley.

If in doubt, plug up all vacuum lines...see if that helps...look for or listen for air sucking in through the intake...but that may require multiple starts so maybe enlist the aide of someone to do the cranking for you.

I will go outside to get my Haynes if I can't find anything online...

Im going to check the timing again and see i cleaned iac unit and throttle and i bought a new fuel filter but havent dont that, when i do try to crank engine a smell does come out of the engine it just revs and died could it ve the sensors? I hope it doesnt have to do anything with the head.
 
The engine doesn't seem to be actually revving up too high...the way you described it initially it sounded like the revs were going up...

How high does it get or do you have a tach?

It does look more like it is starving for fuel...did you check the schrader valve on the fuel line to see if pressure was there? It could be dropping off for a few reasons but you would need to test that...I can't remember what we've covered so far...there is another similar thread going and that one was having other issues...

So...maybe check or confirm that you checked the fuel pressure...test the schrader valve...smell the FPR for gas smell by pulling the hose off the FPR...should not smell gas.
 
The engine doesn't seem to be actually revving up too high...the way you described it initially it sounded like the revs were going up...

How high does it get or do you have a tach?

It does look more like it is starving for fuel...did you check the schrader valve on the fuel line to see if pressure was there? It could be dropping off for a few reasons but you would need to test that...I can't remember what we've covered so far...there is another similar thread going and that one was having other issues...

So...maybe check or confirm that you checked the fuel pressure...test the schrader valve...smell the FPR for gas smell by pulling the hose off the FPR...should not smell gas.



That was actually one of the quieter starts and it revs to almost 5k sometimes 5han goes off, i still believe its the starvation of fuel i swapped pump and just got finished with fuel filter and i smell alot of gas wheb u try to turn over, im gonna do the fuel pressure test as you said also i took off spark plug to see what was on them an wet black was on them. But i defiantly smell a fume everytime i try to start.
 

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