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2.5 build


ricardo93

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
243
City
pacoima, ca.
Vehicle Year
2009
Transmission
Manual
So i have gotten my hands on a beater and this makes building my truck possible becuase now i can work 2 jobs :-D.

My plan is to do the stroker with the matching transmission, the goal driveline to look for would be an 88-89 2.3 motor correct? And would the clutch system be the same as it is with the fm145?

I wanna shoot for a 10.5:1 compression with a mallory distributor system, and like 24 lb/hr. Injectors.

For the compression what would be my best route to take, andi was thinking about holley 24lb injectors, would that be smart or should i limit it to 19#?
 
Depends on the cam. If you are only milling the head, and not changing the cam, the injectors don't need to be that big. The stock ecu will make up enough to use 17 or 19 lb injectors. Anything bigger and you need a tuner.
 
And to add to that...if you are considering stroking a 2.3 I'd go with something a bit later if possible...like a 96 2.3...unless you want to put a carb/distributor on it like I've been thinking of doing. If you are staying with FI then using your current head would work with all the intake and sensors...might want to rebuild a roller cam head if you don't have one currently.

FM145? The 2.3 usually is better mated to the M5OD...and they are plentiful...so far.
 
I always forget what year the roller heads started. Oh an is it possible block of the extra 4 plug holes? =-O ive heard of people donig the 4-plug conversions but i dont know how
 
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You could block off the plugs, or just leave unconnected plugs in them, but the intake will not let you put a distributor in. The four plug swap requires an older head. Without the old style efi intake, the distributor will never fit.
 
FM145? The 2.3 usually is better mated to the M5OD...and they are plentiful...so far.

Not so much around these parts...there are a lot of Rangers in the yards, but usually, the M5od's get pulled faster than anything else...

I just finished swapping my '85 to M5od...happy I did, but surprised at how high the demand for them, and associated parts are, here.
 
Where could i get the kit? Cuz i would rather have that brand new instead of used
 
Where could i get the kit? Cuz i would rather have that brand new instead of used



If you are talking about roller cams it's a lot cheaper to find them in a salvage yard then buying them new. The roller cams (not factory Ford cams) are in the $300 - $400 range, and 8 roller cam followers are another $300 +. I've done a few "salvage yard" roller cam swaps with no failures (as long as the inside of the engine is clean, plus checking over the cam, and followers for wear isn't that hard to do).
 
How much greater of a difference is the m5 over the fm?
 
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What is your guys opinions about full synth motor oil? In brand new motors and older foreign motors? My brother and i have some jdm beaters he a an 88 civic and i have an 86 corolla, but in the 130k mile range, and was just curious about what you guys with more experience building/maintaing motors and some with even high performance motors, what would be your reccomendation? And i only run valvoline with fram filtera
 
I picked up a few pails of synthetic for free from a company that was cleaning house. When I use it in high mileage motors I see more leakage from seals and gaskets. But it was free so ....
Newer motors or motors that have had synth the whole life it doesn't do that.
JMO

Richard
 
Full synthetics are not worth the cost unless you can run it for an entire life cycle. For example, Royal Purple, if your car does not leak any fluids and has a tight cylinder will last for 25,000 miles. Most people can't run it that long though because of blow by gasses. Run conventional oil, I do I'm my 600cc microsprint motor, and we turn 13,000-15,000 rpm all night in those motors. We just change it every 2 or 3 races.
 

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