2.3 Jet Boat Project

[flash550]

Hello all! I decided to forgo the mass introductory post since I do not own a Ranger and this is the only area of the forum I will frequent.

I am in the early stages of building a Glen-L “Dyno Jet” wooden jet boat. I secured a jet pump from a late 90’s Yamaha Wave Raider 700 and picked up a 2.3 out of a ‘93 Ranger to spin it. I am going to have the driveline complete prior to starting construction on the hull.

The 2.3 is complete less accessories, which I do not need anyway, and I am in the process of tearing it down to see what I’m working with. So far, so good. Some heavy surface rust but the valve train is spotless. Pulling the head today to get a look at the cylinders and pistons.

My first question for all you 2.3 experts is this: should I keep the EFI or slap a Holley 350 on it? I am leaning towards the carb simply because it would be cheaper, easier, and I can tune it without expensive software purchase. However, I have the complete wiring harnesses minus the ECU, so if anyone can make a case to keep the FI, I would love to hear it.

Thanks in advance, and I look forward to our discussion!

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[tomw]

To work effectively, the injector system needs an O2 sensor in the exhaust. Depending on vintage, may need 2, one before and one after the catalytic converter. Don't think you have one in your plans.
As far as a carb system, the 2.3 was used in at least one makers boats from the factory. Brand name eludes memory.
The carb selected should be modified for marine use, especially if it will be inside a closed/semi-enclosed area. It may not apply if out in the open(I don't know the design).

There are several sources of carburetor adapter plates for the Lima, including both 2 and 4 barrel versions. The original 1974 had a Holley-Weber 2100(?) progressive in both Pinto and Mustang versions. Esslinger and Racer Walsh and perhaps Edelbrock/others made 4 barrel adapters.
The earliest had points ignition, followed by DuraSpark, then EEC-IV. Obviously the simplest would be getting a 1974 points distributor. Perhaps(I have no idea) other distributors would be drop-in.

The insides of yours sure seem to be clean. Someone maintained that engine properly.
tom

 

[Curious Hound]

Welcome to the forum! That sounds like a cool project. Going to build the hull yourself?

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[Denisefwd93]

Welcome to TRS! Boat builder here + - what's left of it)

I'm wondering, will you have the rpms necessary for a jet drive?

 

[flash550]

To work effectively, the injector system needs an O2 sensor in the exhaust. Depending on vintage, may need 2, one before and one after the catalytic converter. Don't think you have one in your plans.
As far as a carb system, the 2.3 was used in at least one makers boats from the factory. Brand name eludes memory.
The carb selected should be modified for marine use, especially if it will be inside a closed/semi-enclosed area. It may not apply if out in the open(I don't know the design).

There are several sources of carburetor adapter plates for the Lima, including both 2 and 4 barrel versions. The original 1974 had a Holley-Weber 2100(?) progressive in both Pinto and Mustang versions. Esslinger and Racer Walsh and perhaps Edelbrock/others made 4 barrel adapters.
The earliest had points ignition, followed by DuraSpark, then EEC-IV. Obviously the simplest would be getting a 1974 points distributor. Perhaps(I have no idea) other distributors would be drop-in.

The insides of yours sure seem to be clean. Someone maintained that engine properly.
tom

That’s one of my concerns. Since I will be running an open header I won’t really have a provision for an O2 sensor which means I will never get a really good tune on it.

I’m eyeballing several different adapter plates to utilize the lower part of the EFI intake.


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[flash550]

Welcome to the forum! That sounds like a cool project. Going to build the hull yourself?

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Yep. Here’s a link to the plans.

https://www.boatdesigns.com/mobile/11-Dyno-Jet-SG-runabout-for-jet/products/506/


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[flash550]

Welcome to TRS! Boat builder here + or what's left of it)

I'm wondering, will you have the rpms necessary for a jet drive?

Thanks! I still need to do the math on that. At a minimum I’m going to get a very aggressive impeller that will move more water at a lower RPM.


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[RonD]

It looks like that block still has distributor hole, drivers side of block down low between cylinders 1 and 2.
You need that to even consider a Carb conversion

EFI is more reliable and has better fuel economy, but for a pleasure boat neither would matter that much.
For current spark system you would NEED the Computer, so if you go with a carb then you need a distributor as well, one with vacuum advance

A 2.3l Duraspark distributor and an HEI control module, would be best choice IMO, GM's HEI module is better than Ford's Duraspark module and much cheaper, either works with Duraspark distributors
And Marine grade distributor cap, sealed better than standard cap

Carb needs to be Marine grade as well, these have different vents on the float bowl, so gasoline doesn't come out when bouncing around in waves or at speed.

You can block off 4 of the spark plug holes in the head for distributor use, doesn't matter which side has the spark plugs but exhaust side might be easier side to get to all 4
You can use old spark plugs to block the holes, or good spark plugs and then you have the option of switching over a spark plug wire if there is a misfire

 

[Denisefwd93]

Spark arrestor on the intake, what's doing for cooling?

 

[RonD]

This was Ford's 2.3l Marine version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qoJN9pGm24

Carb'ed and water cooled exhaust manifold

 

[Denisefwd93]

This was Ford's 2.3l Marine version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qoJN9pGm24

Carb'ed and water cooled exhaust manifold

Very cool! But Ron you're answering the questions for the OP lol

the configurations of marine manifolds are a staggering as the variety of bellhousing I don't know how anybody all gets it all figured out but apparently they do lol

 

[flash550]

It looks like that block still has distributor hole, drivers side of block down low between cylinders 1 and 2.
You need that to even consider a Carb conversion

EFI is more reliable and has better fuel economy, but for a pleasure boat neither would matter that much.
For current spark system you would NEED the Computer, so if you go with a carb then you need a distributor as well, one with vacuum advance

A 2.3l Duraspark distributor and an HEI control module, would be best choice IMO, GM's HEI module is better than Ford's Duraspark module and much cheaper, either works with Duraspark distributors
And Marine grade distributor cap, sealed better than standard cap

Carb needs to be Marine grade as well, these have different vents on the float bowl, so gasoline doesn't come out when bouncing around in waves or at speed.

You can block off 4 of the spark plug holes in the head for distributor use, doesn't matter which side has the spark plugs but exhaust side might be easier side to get to all 4
You can use old spark plugs to block the holes, or good spark plugs and then you have the option of switching over a spark plug wire if there is a misfire

That checks. ‘93 block so I’ve got provisions for a distributor. Was wondering how to make all 8 plugs work but you’re right, I don’t need to. Good point on the marine carb, I didn’t think about the float bowl vents. Might look in to modifying a Holley though, the marine motor was not known as a performer.

Also, I’m going to wrap and use the stock exhaust manifold. It’s basically a shorty header and it will be out in the open so I’m not overly concerned with cooling.


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[Denisefwd93]

I'd suggest you be very very sure with anything fuel related, just the gas in the tank will be a lot more agitated than it is in a wheeled vehicle. I don't know what your ultimate design is I'm guessing the engine is going to be in the open and you have less safety concerns but I would still have very strong safety concerns. what do you do for engine cooling water? is it diverted off the jet pump or is it a separate intake for what we call sea water pump?

 

[flash550]

I'd suggest you be very very sure with anything fuel related, just the gas in the tank will be a lot more agitated than it is in a wheeled vehicle. I don't know what your ultimate design is I'm guessing the engine is going to be in the open and you have less safety concerns but I would still have very strong safety concerns. what do you do for engine cooling water? is it diverted off the jet pump or is it a separate intake for what we call sea water pump?

That checks. Using the fuel tank from the jet ski that I salvaged the jet pump from so it is already marine-grade. Ultimate design...think old school, low profile jet boat, but only about 12 feet long. I really don’t want to introduce salt water to this motor so I’m actually considering a closed cooling system. These motors seem to run cool anyway so I can probably get away with a small radiator/e-fan combo tucked away somewhere.


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[Denisefwd93]

It is generally done with a heat exchanger, it's called raw water cooling. Sea water is pumped through the heat exchanger with an impeller pump, the engine cooling uses the engine water pump which is really a circulator and it circulates the engine coolant water through the the heat exchanger. all these types of marine accessories for engines have been around for a very long time and I think it would be less complicated than trying to use a radiator.
https://goo.gl/images/wCSXCc