2.0 needs more power

[87ranger2.0]

K I'm sorry as far as finding a better carb 2.3 head, manifold n carb what other makes beside a ranger can I look at?

 

[John Smith]

About other makes..

2.0L rangers are a good source and mod one...other than that...For Carb Stuff
Pre-efi Ford products..74-84 all series of Ford stuff...Pinto, Bobcat, Capri, Mustang II, etc..

Or if ur lucky, an OMC 2.3L Cobra inboard/outboard..87-89

 

[87ranger2.0]

Ty for all your help.you have been a great help ty again

 

[Mark_88]

Is it doin a good job?..i seem to remember you were having some flooding issues some time back?..with maybe a fuel pressure issue?..I'm asking cuzi still haven't decided which way to go with the engine i'm building for my B2..either EFI or carbed w the 5200 and the BIG VALVE version of the 79 Pinto head i just got back from having large valves put in. Just so happened that a friend had the valves...and the cutter to mod them ..the block will be a "94" .040 over.

Good day John, hope your day is blessed as well~

the 5200 has been a great carb, especially compared to the stock one that I swapped it out for. A few minor things like the flooding (caused by the float setting) and a vac leak caused by my indifference to buying a new gasket for it...but otherwise I'd say it's good.

I had been hoping to eventually swap it out for something else on a EFI intake but losing my job and other events have curtailed my ability to go that route...and that route was partially inspired by the initial problems with vac leak and float...

The 5200 should be a direct bolt on that manifold with the adapter, of course. If it was that way when you got it then all you probably need is to clean it up (they shine up really nice) and mount the carb...

The only difference I can see between the one you have and mine is that yours looks like it has oval ports, whereas I'm pretty sure mine had the D ports...I was concerned about port matching since I heard it can greatly impede performance...

Edit: Last time I saw that intake listed it was about $150 USd...so $50 on e-bay is about right...but that was one reason why I wanted to hang onto that intake and adapt a different carb if possible...

 

[flaminranger]

K I think I got it this time lol

that is the same intake on my truck and I modded the adapter plate to fit the weber onto my truck. I just removed the egr and built a block off plate.

 

[John Smith]

I remeber your post

that is the same intake on my truck and I modded the adapter plate to fit the weber onto my truck. I just removed the egr and built a block off plate.

turned out pretty neat..I Llke the Weber type of carb..Since i have a cple Weber Licensed/Holly 5200's I'll go with them for now but i have a good source of Weber parts locally and am impressed that they offer so much for a carb aficionado in today's EFI world..After you modded your manifold..you could run either one i believe the mount-base is the same I'm sure..

Mark..I seemed to remember someone saying that an OMC Cobra 2.3L had a great intake manifold ..and i found one..it is a D-port..but seems to have used a Rochester carb..as near as i can tell probably some type of 2GC variant. If you find one of those latch onto it..(if you find 2 save one for me) .I'm impressed with this OMC manifold..Cast and heavy but minimalist for sure...and short tubes to the valves...it is a little tite to try and adapt a Weber cuz the base is SO close to the same...but I'm lookin into it....how about a Stromberg 97 on it?....talk about old school....(and toooo expensive) I have to admit I'm old enuf to have rebuilt a couple of those as a kid...for my "49"

As near as i can determine talking to some boat shops..the OMC 2.3 was basically a Turbo/industrial block with Flat top pistons
D-port turbo style head and advertized 120HP with a Mallory marine dizzy...they also had a head cracking issue occasionally i guess...

Anyway best wishes all in the quest for happiness with a carb...it's old school but i kinda like it...now if i could save up for one of those "1 wire" 6g alternators for mounting on the passenger side down low...
talk about a clean look...

 

[87ranger2.0]

are 13MM. And the 12pt hex ones can be re-used.

about boring the block..i would have to say I'm not sure..Some have said yes, some no. It may depend on the casting series of the block?...I had an "86" 2.0 block from a Ranger that i stripped..and the casting seemed similar to a Turbo coupe block w/o the drilled oil hole...since i already had a TC block i didn't keep it. I would ask the folks that race these 2.0L's

Racer Walsh, and maybe Esslinger.....they have web addresses..and are listed in the Tech library. If it could be done i imagine more would do it..especially for turbo use cuz there are a lot of Original Turbo forged piston/rods that are "standard"..with no available o'size stock pistons which were preferred ....I have a set..just no good "standard block"..

if your block has a cast nubbin on the passenger side in the middle about halfway back...don't toss it till u find out...The pic I include will show the oil drain boss w a tapped hole..

some good info..

http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/

Best wishes....

Best wishes....

here also is a good sight for info....mostly turbo stuff but the engine basics are there...

Well my block doesn't have that cast nubbin on the side.i started to pull my engine apart.i got the head off n it doesn't look like it had the d-shape ports but I didn't break it down yet.can you tell by just looking at it with the head off? What is up with all the vacuum lines going to the intake manifold?they look like shit.lol can n will the truck run k n pass an emission test w/o them?

 

[87ranger2.0]

These are the line I'm talking about in my above post

 

[Mark_88]

These are the line I'm talking about in my above post

Gaaaaak~

Those pics brought back horrid memories...lol And your ports are round...that's why using a different intake with that head can be a problem...but I did initially and it worked out OK...

The good news is...you can actually get that mess to work properly...the bad news is...there is not a living soul in Ford who can tell you how to do that...I know because I tried...best I could do was get them to print out a bunch of the schematics from the service manual showing the intake parts listed.

Mine was actually in much better shape than yours, meaning I cleaned it up so you could recognize the color of the hoses and ran around collecting the connector boots to replace the ones that were leaking...on one of the older TRS forums someone actually posted a pic of their system for me (around 2005 so it went with the old site).

I eventually scrapped the whole intake and emission system for the 2.0 and went with the one John posted a few days ago (not the cobra, but the offy)...it ALMOST passed emissions when I had the air pump connected and the carb tuned properly...missed by about 25 points on the HCo count...which was pretty impressive.

Did you check your state for emission laws on the 87? Those are exempt in Canada (I may have stated this earlier, but can't remember).

 

[John Smith]

good afternoon...

Just checked in and found ur post Ranger..

Mark is right on with what he's sayin...about the typical round port manifold and head. Pretty standard i think in 86-88years of 2.0 2bbl manifolds. Some only had a 1 bbl carb..I understand. Looks like you have the "deluxe version for "more power" that's kewl..

The only one I'ver seen lately is and 86 which had a 1bbl carb, and an 88 which had the 2bbl Aisin version with computer to change the idle speed. My friend opted to take that 2bbl off and put on the 86 1ble manifold/carb and i got the engine for my efforts..It had the typical round ports also..(86) pretty much sop i think for 2.0L version of this Ranger motor..

Mark has the experience to help you thru pretty much everything I think...If you're gonna look into boring the block you might see what the opinions are about going BIG...maybe call Racer walsh or something...

If you CAN go big (2.3) you can benefit from a bigger head as well but If you can't i would just prolly overbore what you can ..and follow the recommendations of Walsh or other mini-stocker to get the most out of the block u can within reason...they still are raced in class so i think they can be made to run..even the round port head...

then there is the smog issue...Mark is right to ask about the states regs....

Neat looking truck it'll be fun to get it runnin I'm sure...and If you do the usual HOP-UP stuff..I'm sure you wont have any trouble passin the smog even with all the "spaghetti" lines if needed....

 

[John Smith]

About the D-ports

Well my block doesn't have that cast nubbin on the side.i started to pull my engine apart.i got the head off n it doesn't look like it had the d-shape ports but I didn't break it down yet.can you tell by just looking at it with the head off? What is up with all the vacuum lines going to the intake manifold?they look like shit.lol can n will the truck run k n pass an emission test w/o them?

They look like the OMC intake i posted about ...a "D" shaped laying on it's flat side down...

 

[87ranger2.0]

ty guys.that sux about the vacuum lines.I'm glad I took alot of pic of where the lines go lol.well in the state of tn the emis test is check the comp for codes,the exh. n the gas cap. that what they did for my wifes 02 focus.ive only lived in tn for 3 yrs now n never had my ranger go throw emis here yet so idk.

 

[John Smith]

does it even have a computer?

ty guys.that sux about the vacuum lines.I'm glad I took alot of pic of where the lines go lol.well in the state of tn the emis test is check the comp for codes,the exh. n the gas cap. that what they did for my wifes 02 focus.ive only lived in tn for 3 yrs now n never had my ranger go throw emis here yet so idk.

I didn't notice the dash-pot on the carb for the idle speed on the carb. If it has a puter it should be on the passenger side fender-well i think. It may have a puter to check the AIR pump controlling valves...in any case I'm sure it'll benefit form a refresh of the bottom end and a valve job...maybe you should check your own codes when u get it rebuilt...

As you rebuild...keep an eye out for valve/piston issues if you add a 2.3 head (bigger valves) especially if you shave the head or use a higher lift cam (there can be valves interference issues especially if you break a belt while running) and if you push much more than 9.5/1 or so watch out for detonation with today's gas and no puter to help with spark/fuel issues with that motor..

I'm sure there are some bro's from TN on here can help you thru the emissions things....we'll be wishin you well from the left coast....

 

[87ranger2.0]

I didn't notice the dash-pot on the carb for the idle speed on the carb. If it has a puter it should be on the passenger side fender-well i think. It may have a puter to check the AIR pump controlling valves...in any case I'm sure it'll benefit form a refresh of the bottom end and a valve job...maybe you should check your own codes when u get it rebuilt...

As you rebuild...keep an eye out for valve/piston issues if you add a 2.3 head (bigger valves) especially if you shave the head or use a higher lift cam (there can be valves interference issues especially if you break a belt while running) and if you push much more than 9.5/1 or so watch out for detonation with today's gas and no puter to help with spark/fuel issues with that motor..

I'm sure there are some bro's from TN on here can help you thru the emissions things....we'll be wishin you well from the left coast....

yes theres a comp on both fenders.theres also 2 solenoids on there pass.side fender that the vacuum line for the carb go to.i don't have code reader for obd1 cars/truck I haven't made up my mine if I'm gonna do a compl rebuild on my 2.0 or just get in running again n go get another engine a rebuild that one the way I want.ethere way I want to thank everybody that has helped me.you guys are the best n very nice.i will keep you guys up to date on what I do.thanks again

 

[briansz]

Honestly, for passing emissions on a $1200 budget I'd buy an EFI tank and pump/sender ($225) and pull a complete EFI 2.3 from the boneyard with harness and ECU ($400-$500). Money left over for a compatible/new cat converter and you hit your 100HP goal and pass smog.

I have $1100 in the head on my carbed motor, and it's far from radical. Just a more aggressive cam, fairly extensive port work, .020 deck, 3-angle valve job and new bearings/components.

Could have been 60% of that if I'd have done the porting and assembly myself, I guess. At the time I didn't have a place to work on it, so I paid the shop.

$1200 will buy you a lot more fun in junkyard parts for a carbed motor if emissions is not a concern.