1998 won't start

[jeremysdad]

I have a $20 dollar craftsman multimeter as well as cheap Chinese version from who knows where I got for Christmas. Both work well. The cheaper one actually has more features. (And hasn't had the dc amps jack smoked...long story. Lol)

Long story short...you can get a decent meter for not too much and they're so handy to have around.

 

[monstermazda]

That red/lt blue wire controls the starter let me get to my shop I can get you wiring diagrams and upload it.

Had the same problem with a 96 it had remote start or low jack that's the wire they had it hooked to I'll upload in an hour or two

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[zekew64]

Hey, just a thought, but the starter has been replaced at least once before.

How do I know? The yellow wire.

A starter purchased at Advance or AutoZone comes with a new pigtail to the solenoid, as Ford claims that when originally designed with a blade-type connector, they failed to take into account the corrosion that the connector would be exposed to. Thus, they failed to rwalize, until much later, that corrosion could damage or destroy the signal wire. The yellow wire is their "from the factory" fix.

 

[zekew64]

Also, I think I know why the truck won't start: Bad ignition switch in "RUN" position. Basically, the contacts are shot, so no power can go through the ignition system.

Have you turned the truck on and tried to pop the clutch? If it starts, then you have a bad ignition switch in the steering column.

 

[TxGasRacer]

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-a-no-start-condition-1