1994 vs 1995 3.0 short block compatability

[Ranger Rod]

after thought,,, change out the plug on the wiring side?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

no.

the two different syncronizers send two different signals to the PCM. you need to reuse your original syncro and sensor end of story.

 

[Ranger Rod]

Thanks again.

So when you say to reuse the original syncro and sensor, you mean the do-hicky reading the plate with teeth at the harmonic balancer is the sensor which is sending to the power control module as-well and it needs to be changed also, or, syncro and sensor are both within the part running off the cam shaft which runs the oil pump and, each are part of that complete assembly? Don't mean to be so ignorant but I want to get this right.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

the syncronizer is the doo-hickey driven off of the camshaft that drives the oil pump and has the little semi-circle on top. the cam sensor is the black thing you pictured that rides atop the syncronizer. use your original syncro and sensor. they will drop right into the new motor...but like i said before, youll probably need to find the alignment tool in order to obtain the correct timing.

 

[Ranger Rod]

Affirmative,,, leave the one by the crank shaft alone,,, take out 98 DIS and rob the gear to referbish the 95 DIS and reinstall the 95 complete. Was hoping not to disturb the DIS at all but do what ya have as they say. It looks awfull tight to get on that fastening bolt now heads and intake are on (scratches head).

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

be very careful if your going to attempt to swap those gears. they crack easily. heat and a press would probably be your best bet.

you can buy a complete new syncronizer for under $100 if you want to put a while new unit in (usually the bushing that the shaft rides on is the problem, not the gear itself).

 

[Ranger Rod]

My gear looks just like this one as seen from anouther thread. The critical part is pressing the roll pin out or removing gear from shaft?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

in that case, buy a new syncronizer...your bushing is probably toast.

 

[Ranger Rod]

Cracked the gear as warned and used old DIS till I get a replacement,,, runs like a top but rpm's hesitate coming down, computor still adjusting maybe?

Busted plastic nipple off the bottom of power steering pump in -18c I imagine, should be able to figure a cure for that, threaded tube or apoxy resin maybe, think its the return and under very little preasure, minor detail.

Unfortunatly I must have screwed something up. Put it in gear and nothing, forward or reverse, have toped up fluid that was lost from torque converter during motor switch and have checked the linkage which moves as expected? Is it possable that I did damage to the tranny while inserting motor, maybe the spline wasn't lined up right, would the bell housing and block still draw together if not lined up???

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

your using the syncronizer with the worn gear? dont run that engine any longer than you have to..and keep a very sharp eye on your oil pressure gauge. that syncronizer is likely to fail very, very soon (when it does you will loose your oil pump).

if you didnt have the torque converter completely seated in the pump housing, you may have destroyed the pump when mating the enine and transmission. they will bolt together with the TC not seated in the pump...and the act of tightening the bellhousing bolts will crush the transmission pump. first check to make sure everything is plugged in securely and nothing got jarred loose. if everything is OK, you should check your line pressure.

 

[Ranger Rod]

Old DIS was just for testing purposes, it is not as bad as the example pic but yes I will change asap.

Now the tranny, the pump you refer to is one of the two interlaced splines from the housing which are meant to insert into the TC I gather?

When you mention check that everything is plugged in this means there is electrical to the tranny besides rev light?

To check the line pressure I should remove the lines going to rad I take it, and while talking about that what would happen if I might have gotten them switched up some how?

Bolting up while mating had a fair amount of resistance and I fear that’s what has buggered me up, if so what is involved in correcting the pump?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

yes the pump is driven by the smaller of the two splines that go into the TC.

you should have a large wiring harness plugged into the drivers side of the transmission. make sure it didnt get jarred loose.

to check the line pressure you need to T into one of the cooler lines.

it doesnt matter if the cooler lines are swapped around. the flow through either way (although the top line is "supposed" to be the supply line).

replacing the pump involves pulling and disassembling the transmission. you may or may not need some special tools for this (im really not a transmission guy).

 

[Ranger Rod]

For arguments sake, is the 98 tranny good to go with the 95 ranger, I am thinking I should go get the low milage tranny that went with this block from the wreckers?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

that wouldnt be a bad idea....

 

[Ranger Rod]

Your a good man wicked, presuming your a guy, from where do you draw all this information, you a dealership mechanic perhaps?

To ensure I am reading you right, T into the line = put a gauge on it or just open one end or the other to see if it flows? If no flow after checking harness she is pooched?

Assuming the worst, when installing again, how the hell do you make sure things are lined up when you can't see in there?