1994 vs 1995 3.0 short block compatability

[Wicked_Sludge]

good guess. i am a service tech at the local ford dealership. and last time i checked...i was indeed male

by a T i mean unhook one line and install a T. the allows normal oil flow through the cooler, while also allowing you to install a pressure gauge on the 3rd leg of the T. if you have no pressure then you most likely damaged the pump.

to avoid this problem in the future. push the TC into the transmission while turning it. it should go through 3 distinct "clunks" (if its been fully removed from the transmission). also make sure your TC studs are properly lines up so the flex plate doesnt jam the converter into the pump housing when you try to mate the engine and transmission.

 

[Ranger Rod]

This means to say, put the TC on the spline apart from the fly wheel, then mate to motor, then bolt fly wheel to TC via the inspection port?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

its usually easier to go through the starter hole (with the starter removed obviously).

align the TC studs as best you can and make sure you check and re-align them as the engine and trans get close. you dont want the studs to hit the flexplate and shove the TC back into the pump housing.

 

[Ranger Rod]

flex plate, I don't remember a flex plate,, just fly wheel and TC,,,, flex plate is for stanard tranny isn't it, coupled with throw-out bearing?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

flex plate = flywheel when used in an automatic transmission application.

just different terminology.

for a standard tranny your thinking pressure plate. pressure plate, flywheel, clutch disk, and t/o bearing make up a typical clutch assembly.

 

[Ranger Rod]

Removed upper line from rad and ran motor but nothing flowed forth and so I have proceeded to attempt removing tranny. In eyeballing it surely looks there is no way of extraction without removing at least one side of the tail stock cross member, do we all agree on that?

Well now, don't laugh to hard folks, but I'll be god damned if I can't get the bolts out of the forward tranny / tail stock cross-member where it fastens to the frame through a rubber mount. I must have beat that damn thing till blue in the face and only got the threaded end flush with the frame flange (1" of 5"). I have removed all forces of gravity with a jack beneath the cross-member. There is no way of beating (2 hands on big ball peen) as hard as I did to get it that far and attempt to hold a punch to boot. I have pried prodded and spit but the bugger will not let go. Only thing coming to mind is water and dish soap but that is futile as there is no way to get it inside the rubber. I don't remember life being so difficult with the classic cars ; )

For clarification sake, the inspection port will allow a touch more room for accessing TC studs.

I am also stumped on how to get the connector plug (large square 1.5") from just in front of the linkage free, I do not want to damage anything else in this project so I will risk appearing stupid and ask you good people how? I released what I figured was metal retainer clips but still she held fast???

Was pondering today how come this has never happened to me in the past and, it dawned on me that through shear coincidence I have always mated the tranny to the motor and never a motor to the tranny, therefore that was why a big light switch came on after Wicked (usually a bitches name lol) spelled out stud last!

Lastly, wrecker seems to feel the 98 tranny is a no go, I suspect it is like full size units from old days where you needed to change out speedo gear and rev switch etc., what say you? If I could get the old sucker out I would just tote it with me to wreckers and compare before the other 98 is gone.

 

[kawasakiman27]

all year ranger 3.0 blocks are interchangable. TFI ignition can be converted to DIS and vice-versa.

there are differences in the heads between 98-01(?) for flex fuel motors. non-flex fuel heads have successfully been used on flex fuel engines with no problems.

the sensor in the oil pan is for the oil level. as far as i know, all 93+ 3.0's have it. there is no difference in the oiling systems.

all ranger 3.0's got roller cams, so if your engine comes out of a ranger you have no worries there.

there are differences in the valve size and spring type after a certain year but as long as you use the complete engine it wont matter.

ive seen engines damaged in wrecks before. just inspect it and make sure there are no obvious contact marks on the engine. the wrecking yard SHOULD offer some kind of warranty for this type of problem (they wont give you your money back, but they will give you another engine). make sure you ask them about that.

The GC heads with smaller valves and conical springs will work in place of the older model GA heads helping the 3.0 with better valve float. Lengths didnt change so you can use them with old rockers and rods. But for flex apps you need to use EB heads if you wanna run E85 cause the chamber is different everything else is the same.

 

[Ranger Rod]

Today...

Got the fargin thing out, the other cross member mounting bolt slid out without any incident so wangled out that side instead, and the electrical plug believe it or not fell off in my hand when I touched it, go figure! (when made visible to the eye the metal clip is hinged and works much like those screw in hooks for locking screen doors). For anyone about to attempt taking the tranny out, be advised that to remove the Y pipe will make life easier, I did not but took off manifolds to gain a couple inches because I am not using torches or air tools and still I had to get angry with it and yank the crap out of it, not to sure how I will get the sucker back in yet. I was one step away from yanking the motor again and going through the engine compartment, which if someone is going to do anything to their tranny I advise that route in this case if motor is coming out anyway and you don't have a hoist.

Scoured the wrecker where I originally found the good block looking for a suitable transmission, the fella assures me that the 98 tranny is electronic shift and will not work for me and did not want to sell me the one out of a 95 in the back 40 because he had no idea about it's history.

I did manage a DIS core for $10.00, with a superb gear from the 95 which had the tranny he would not sell to me. It was the body which was toasted on it so I thought although it had 266,000km's and being the DIS gear was so pristine, it was worth the chance, but at any rate....

So the hunt continues for a 95 or 96 transmission, as apparently no other year will do it. I suppose it is worth a call to Mr. Transmission to inquire how much to re:&re: the pump. The TC was wobling on the spline and yet required putting a chain from one stud to anouther and prying with a long 2x4 in order to jar it loose, no visable damage to TC but small inner spline came out on its own and, I could see where the seal ran when all was fine, and again where the seal ran say an inch or two along the spline when not fine.

thread & topic changed to...http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43662