1994 Ranger 4wd front bearing adjustment--

[dpfurby]

I am going to install new rotors and brake pads on my "94 Ranger, add a new inboard bearing seal and grease the bearings. Question-- after everything is reassembled what is the procedure for

Tightening the castle axle nut to _____ and rotating the rotor clockwise, then after that I would back off the nut ______ and then install a new cotter pin thru the castle axle nut so that the bearings can expand and not bind when in use.

Any advice there?

Thanks.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

IIRC there is no castle nut on a 4x4 ttb front axle.
tighten inboard axle nut to 35 ft/lbs.
back off half turn and then tighten to 16 in/lbs. [finger tight]
slip on washer over pin. if washer doesn't fit, flip washer over and if you have to, loosen nut to get washer over pin.
tighten outer nut to 150 ft/lbs. [knowledgeable members recommend 200-250 ft/lbs.]

Richard

Edit; It would be best to buy a manual or visit the library as my memory isn't always good.

 

[cvar]

Castle nut is for 4x2, but does not exist on 4x4. Instead, the various kinds of locking nut are either 2 or 3 piece affairs, so it's easier to show photos than to explain in words. It depends what your 4x4 has. Do you have auto or manual hubs? I dunno about manual hubs. For auto hubs, I've just installed it snugly (not tight), then back off 1/4 turn. What does torque matter when you're gonna back off 1/4 turn anyway? You want it to spin freely, but not wobble loosely.

My '97 should match your '94, so perhaps these photos may help:

Front wheel bearings: http://imgur.com/a/d8skq
Front brake pads: http://imgur.com/a/URjHr
Rear brake shoes: http://imgur.com/a/ZES5N

 

[wildbill23c]

Is the front wheel bearing instructions basically the same for a truck with manual lock-in hubs?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Castle nut is for 4x2, but does not exist on 4x4. Instead, the various kinds of locking nut are either 2 or 3 piece affairs, so it's easier to show photos than to explain in words. It depends what your 4x4 has. Do you have auto or manual hubs? I dunno about manual hubs. For auto hubs, I've just installed it snugly (not tight), then back off 1/4 turn. What does torque matter when you're gonna back off 1/4 turn anyway? You want it to spin freely, but not wobble loosely.

I believe the reason for using torque numbers is to prevent problems from one person to the next. The first persons finger tight might be totally impossible to get to for someone less strong or agile. The backing off is to allow for expansion when everything heats up, and while being slightly loose is OK, a little too tight will wreck your bearings. I'm not saying this for your benefit, but for people that may read this in the future.

My '97 should match your '94, so perhaps these photos may help:

Front wheel bearings: http://imgur.com/a/d8skq
Front brake pads: http://imgur.com/a/URjHr I believe you should emphasize using the bleeders to release old brake fluid while squeezing pistons. I know you mentioned it in a "tip", but not in the instructions.
Rear brake shoes: http://imgur.com/a/ZES5N

^^^ More good write-ups

Richard

 

[cvar]

Is the front wheel bearing instructions basically the same for a truck with manual lock-in hubs?

Yes, either way, removal of (auto/manual) hubs is coincidental. Then, everything beyond the hubs is the same.
See http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/HubDiagnosis.html
and http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.htm

Front brake pads: http://imgur.com/a/URjHr I believe you should emphasize using the bleeders to release old brake fluid while squeezing pistons. I know you mentioned it in a "tip", but not in the instructions.
[snip]

^^^ More good write-ups

Richard

OK, I did! And thanks.

.