1993 Splash build

[brinker88]

Im beginning to see the light, yes.

On a lighter note, I found the exact shock I need. N2.2 Rough country shock for the rear of a 6 inch lifted Wrangler. Nitrogen charged. Collapsed length is 15" extended is 26". This is PERFECT for a 4" lfit and F250 shock towers and extended radius arms.

Not much of an update, but I got my u-bolts today. I bumped the size of them up to 5/8" rod. Also got my bolts for the lift as mine didnt have any with it (used). Got Grade 8 Flanged bolts and flanged steel lock nuts. I love working at a suspension shop lol.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I thought that the "Adapter/spacer" between the transmission and t-case were different. I thought there were 2 different kinds. One WITH the bolt holes, and one WITHOUT. I was lookin at my truck tonight and I dont see the bolt holes.

If you need both the vss sensor and manual shifter mounts then good luck finding one. The output shaft is different aswell since the rear seal is moved back to allow room for the tone ring.

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[brinker88]

Well, there goes that idea...

 

[PlumCrazy]

Well that pic certainly shows where the shifter would bolt up... but if yours does not have them then there must be two different styles, in all the trucks I have pulled or swapped t-cases I never noticed one without.

If you dont run a center console between the seats you could always do a push pull shift setup like some guys have on their doublers. Or pick up an adapter with the threaded holes and bolt it on like stock.

I have a full center length center console with a 5 speed, a manual t case and a doubler.lol

Old pic, I have redone the boot and made a short throw since that pic was taken.

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[brinker88]

Saw that. Doesnt help me out tho!

 

[PlumCrazy]

You can run a pull/push setup and you wouldn't need a bracket or the housing with bolt holes

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[brinker88]

I might just do that. Thanks!

 

[PlumCrazy]

There are pics in my build thread as I'm sure you are aware.

I ditched the upper guide/support and just used the hole in the floor to support the shifter. It is stupid simple.lol
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[brinker88]

Good deal, I might just do that lol. And Plum, did you ever get that measurement of the loaded coil height on those EB's?


So, I need you guys suggestions here. For TTB, what PPI coil should I be looking for (X-cab w/ 4.0L) ? I found a set of 300 PPI 78/79 F150 deaver coils and I've also found a set of EB coils from BC Bronco that have 230 PPI.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I think 220-250 would be perfect with TTB. 300 will have better road manners though.

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[brinker88]

I think the 4" lift 79 coils will be too tall though.

 

[PlumCrazy]

TTB lift is hard to predict. I remember when I swapped my rough country 4" coils and 1" spacers for Skyjacker 6" coils I actually lost 2" of lift lol.

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[brinker88]

Rough country coils are sickeningly stiff. But their Cherokee coils are only 170 PPI...

So the more I tinker with this in my head, I need to buy Skyjacker drop brackets. I can't afford to bust a hole in my front diff.

SO, My 4" suspension lift will be going up for sale here fairly soon as I will be piecing the rest of mine together.

 

[RangerSVT]

Why not just save for sas? It's almost a bolt in ordeal, and about the same as a TTB lift. Sell your 35, get a 44 from your local junkyard, f250 shock towers from a 70's truck (driveside has tracbar mount built in) xj coils and your set...

SVT

 

[brinker88]

Because I've already done an SAS. I want to see how far this TTB can really go. It's not by any means a cheap build, BUT it will be done right, and done right the first time.