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1993 Splash build


Got the weld ground down and broke loose on the D44. What a PITA it is to beat off that axle C/wedge.
 
Are you talking about the inner "C" that the knuckle bolts to? If so, drop it in the oven or propane grille on 400* for about 20 minutes, it'll make install and correcting angle much easier :icon_thumby:


SVT
 
Talking about removing the inner C/wedge assembly.
 
Finally was able to remove the axle C/wedge assembly today with the help of the acet. torch and a BFH. Now it's time to get the chop saw out and narrow this pig 6". Unfortunately, this axle has 1/4" wall tubing. I think I'll fabricate up a low-profile truss for it to be on the safe side.

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View attachment 327
 
I removed all hardware front the knuckles last night. The FSJ and Chevy knuckles are different. The OEM T.R.E. mounting points are at different heights (3/4" difference) and the Jeep knuckle tapers from the top down where-as the chevy knuckles taper from the bottom up. It doesnt matter to me since I'm using the high steer, just thought I'd share my findings with you folks. I don't remember reading that in Mr N.'s writeup.
 
Are u forseeing any issue with the differential hitting the engine cross member? Since you've been buying so many 44s, do u have a spare set of d44 radius arms?
 
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Most likely the crossmember will need some trimming/ reinforcing. I'll cross that bridge when the time comes.

Unfortunately, I don't have any spare radius arms at the moment.
 
Well, padiddled around with the axle today. Got the Wedge assembly and the axle sanded down to bare metal, cut off the OEM track bar mount and smoothed it down. Also got the axle in the vise ready for the reinstallation of the wedge assembly. I'll probably end up taking it into work for the final weld around the wedge assembly as I only have a 110 MIG.

Next step is to cut down the radius arms, get some 2" OD DOM and make my arms.
 
That's not a bad find, Brad. but its almost the price of a new set of hubs. I haven't seen 19 spline outer shafts fail at the splines, only at the joint, and even then the joint fails before the stub does...


SVT
 
I'm not worried about the shafts. I'm worried about the weak lockouts that I had a habit of breaking on my other SAS'd truck. Granted, I can always go to the 9290 Warns (?) but I still have a tendency to smash the plastic dials off all the time.
 
The hubs don't take long to change, why not swap em out to slugs when you hit the trail head? Could be a solution to expensive 300m parts and/or multiple sets of hubs purchased...


SVT
 
I love being broke in the winter. It pushes me to clean my parts. Reid Racing orange, anyone?

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