1993 4x4 XLT -Greaseable Front Axle Ujoints on Dana 35?

[Warmblood58]

The ujoints and shaft look pretty rusty on my front Dana 35 diff and wondering if these shafts came equipped with greasable ujoints? Truck has 132,000 miles, 4.0 OHV, five speed, LS in back. Finally getting to this area of the truck after bying 12 months ago. Thanks!

 

[Captain Ledd]

Usually no. I'm sure there's replacement joints out there though that are grease-able.

 

[Warmblood58]

Usually no. I'm sure there's replacement joints out there though that are grease-able.

thanks, I will take a close look today - do they need replacement often or are they pretty much good for life for a vehicle that rarely engages the 4x4 system?
Thanks!

 

[Curious Hound]

They should last a long, long time if you rarely use 4wd. What wears them out is hard use with lots of articulation, lots of torque applied, being submerged in water a lot, particularly when being used, and if you live in an area with lots of road salt use or salty air from the ocean. Otherwise, just riding around idle with a light coating of dust isn't too bad.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[cstarbard]

In my experience, parts stores basically always carry greasable versions of our front u joints, or really all u joints. If they don't ask you when you are there buying them, tell them that is what you want.

Beware clearances, however. The front axle outer (wheel end) u joints will not spin near the knuckle with a traditional grease fitting- the grease fitting would hit the axle beam and break off, as I recall So, when you get a greasable u joint, make sure it comes with a low profile grease fitting intended for a grease gun injector needle. Sometimes, I find that the u joints I buy have a traditional grease fitting on the body (cross shaped center piece) of the u joint, but I don't think there is clearance for this in the front end due to angles of axle shaft pieces while steering, so every front u joint I have bought for the front axle has had a low profile needle grease fitting on one of the caps. These clear fine in my experience during rotation, but again you need the injector needle for your grease gun, and you need to install even the low profile grease fitting AFTER you slide the axle shaft through the hole in the knuckle. There isn't clearance in that hole to install the fitting in the u joint and then slide the axle through the knuckle.

Auto parts stores sell a grease gun injector needle adapter that fits right in your grease gun the same way a fitting does, so that you don't have to change your whole grease gun hose.

One other thing to note: I always lock my hubs and drive my truck in 4wd half a dozen times gently during the non winter months in a field or dirt road to make sure that the u joints rotate and don't freeze up. Other than actual use wearing u joints out, they can also fail from sitting stationary, having water get in somehow, rust develops, and then u joint roller bearings and caps freeze up. Of course keeping them properly greased should prevent this but IMO its not a bad extra precaution. On every TTB Ranger I've had or worked on, the front outer u joints were able to move in the steering direction but were 100% rust welded frozen in the up-down direction, before I replaced them

 

[Warmblood58]

In my experience, parts stores basically always carry greasable versions of our front u joints, or really all u joints. If they don't ask you when you are there buying them, tell them that is what you want.

Beware clearances, however. The front axle outer (wheel end) u joints will not spin near the knuckle with a traditional grease fitting- the grease fitting would hit the axle beam and break off, as I recall So, when you get a greasable u joint, make sure it comes with a low profile grease fitting intended for a grease gun injector needle. Sometimes, I find that the u joints I buy have a traditional grease fitting on the body (cross shaped center piece) of the u joint, but I don't think there is clearance for this in the front end due to angles of axle shaft pieces while steering, so every front u joint I have bought for the front axle has had a low profile needle grease fitting on one of the caps. These clear fine in my experience during rotation, but again you need the injector needle for your grease gun, and you need to install even the low profile grease fitting AFTER you slide the axle shaft through the hole in the knuckle. There isn't clearance in that hole to install the fitting in the u joint and then slide the axle through the knuckle.

Auto parts stores sell a grease gun injector needle adapter that fits right in your grease gun the same way a fitting does, so that you don't have to change your whole grease gun hose.

One other thing to note: I always lock my hubs and drive my truck in 4wd half a dozen times gently during the non winter months in a field or dirt road to make sure that the u joints rotate and don't freeze up. Other than actual use wearing u joints out, they can also fail from sitting stationary, having water get in somehow, rust develops, and then u joint roller bearings and caps freeze up. Of course keeping them properly greased should prevent this but IMO its not a bad extra precaution. On every TTB Ranger I've had or worked on, the front outer u joints were able to move in the steering direction but were 100% rust welded frozen in the up-down direction, before I replaced them

Great info! Thanks!

 

[Denisefwd93]

On my 93 that I sold last year I had one of the front u-joints, done at the shop. that's a pretty cool little injector thing instead of a regular grease fitting, when I saw it I did a double-take and then it was explained to me I said okay but probably "not my lifetime" lol sold the truck anyhow.

 

[19Walt93]

Keep in mind that having a hole in the joint for a grease fitting weakens it. I use greasable joints in my Mustang driveshaft that does some drag racing but I buy the ones with a needle fitting in one end cap so there isn't an extra hole in the joint.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Re; strength
It also makes a difference if the zerk is under compression or tension when it's located in the cross. IIRC it's better under compression.