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ISSUE 1992 Ranger 3.0l Misfire/Stumble turned no start.


Baked Krusader

New Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Aug 4, 2025
Messages
4
City
Montgomery
State - Country
PA - USA
Other
1972 Ford Torino
Vehicle Year
1992
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
Stock
Total Drop
Stock
Tire Size
14"
Hi all, new to this forum but have used it allot. I have an issue ongoing and me nor a mechanic can figure it out.

1992 Ranger 3.0l 2WD developed a random onset misfire/shudder. Its hard to explain its occurrence because it idled fine but under any load it shook noticeably. I changed the ICM, Coil, MAF. Although it ran slightly better considering those were all original it still ran horribly. So I take it to the mechanic and he recommended a fuel filter. Now it wont start. So from there he thought it could be the distributor. The old distributor was original and the gear on the bottom was pretty worn to the point the fins were sharp. Put in a new distributor and still a no start. Not sure if he messed up the timing or not but now im looking at a hefty bill and a truck that was once running, although poorly doesn't run now. It cranks, wont fire up on starter fluid either. Although we got 35-40 psi on the Schrader port, cranking gets 5 hg vacuum, and blue spark on pulled plugs. Oil looks good, spark plugs look impressive after 30k miles on them. It did backfire into the intake once or twice with all the testing. But wont fire up even for a moment.

The only issue I've had with the truck before now is when its winter temps here in PA the truck fights to accelerate when its cold and bigs down(not all the time). Only twice in my 4 years of owning it has it had a crank no start when hot, but full throttle usually starts it right up. Besides that i had an issue where the upper radiator hose would suck flat and it would sound like its chugging coolant. My first thoughts were head gasket issues but coolant is still healthy and it doesn't burn any. Never had to top it off. It burns a quart of oil every 3-4k miles but that kinda usually with the 3.0ls. The thermostats were always getting stuck open. I get the ones with failsafe and weep hole the I drill out to 3/16" for just a little more flow.

Any ideas or a lead to go on would be great because at this point its not worth fixing in my opinion. Would rather just 302 swap it and call it a day. Appreciate any help.
 
How can you hire a guy to repair your vehicle, and he makes it worse and charges you a bunch of money and doesn't want to work on it anymore? How do they get away with it?
 
How can you hire a guy to repair your vehicle, and he makes it worse and charges you a bunch of money and doesn't want to work on it anymore? How do they get away with it?
Yeah, thats how I felt. Not sure what I should do atm about it. I was thinking about contacting a lawyer but thats just more money and at that point the trucks not worth the money involved. So far the total garage bill is 400+. Just for a distributor and fuel filter. I try looking up thing i can do and I keep a note on my phone of what's happening so I can fight it if I have to.
 
It did backfire into the intake once or twice with all the testing

Backfires are *almost* always ignition-related. I would look real close at the distributor. Check ignition timing. Check cam timing (distributor runs off the cam).
 
Update:

So the garage got it running. I took it home cuz the problem still persists with the shuddering/misfire. I pulled the codes that now appear. I paid $860 for practically nothing and they lost my eec test port cover, the distributor cap wasn't tightened down properly. Was definitely distributor timing tho not letting it run. My question is why didn't it run with the old distributor, when I brought it it running, then no start, back to running. Im so lost right now and feel like I should contact a lawyer and take it to another garage for a second opinion/diagnosis. Although i also feel i should just abandon ship.

Any recommendations? Still has the same shudder feeling mostly while in gear. I thought it was the TC to begin with which is what i explained to the garage. Just not sure where to go at this point.

Also someone told me to check the eec and thats what it looks like. Impressive considering its age.
 

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Check at the base of the blue barrel-shaped capacitors on the circuit board. By far the biggest failure of these older Ford PCM's is those start leaking white paste onto the circuit board, which indicates failure.

That dizzy gear is showing extreme wear. Hopefully the cam gear doesn't look the same.

You mentioned codes?
 
Check at the base of the blue barrel-shaped capacitors on the circuit board. By far the biggest failure of these older Ford PCM's is those start leaking white paste onto the circuit board, which indicates failure.

That dizzy gear is showing extreme wear. Hopefully the cam gear doesn't look the same.

You mentioned codes?
I wrote them down on paper since video is wont work. Will flash and rerun.

Also will picture those blue capacitors.
 

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Last edited:
Definitely some corrosion under those caps.
 

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