1990 Ranger 4x4 mode causes clicking noise in the dashboard

[John RTC Engine Lab]

I get a clicking noise from behind the dashboard when I put it in 4-wheel drive or lock the front hubs while driving. It sounds like the speedometer cable. I have checked that twice.

John

 

[franklin2]

You have electric shift? If so, that is the computer box trying to put the transfer case in 4x4. Sometimes it will keep doing it if it is having trouble shifting.

If you are pressing the gas pedal and have a load on the engine, it will sometimes fail to shift. You can help it sometimes by letting up on the gas pedal lightly.

 

[John RTC Engine Lab]

It is speed-related. The faster I drive the faster the clicking. It sounds like an unlubed speedometer cable, but it's not that. It is a mechanical noise. As far as I know, there is only one cable coming from the drive line. I roll down the window with the door open and I don't hear it coming from the outside. It's coming from inside the middle of the dashboard. It's got me stumped. The truck is 35 years old with 200,000 miles on it. I went from auto lockers to manual to see if that would fix it, it didn't.

 

[SenorNoob]

There's not much there on a 90. How did you eliminate the speedo cable as a possibility?

 

[dvdswan]

You can disconnect it from the trans/transfer case and drive it. Be sure to cover the hole, not sure if you would spit out fluid or not.

 

[John RTC Engine Lab]

If it looks like a duck, swims like a duck, and quacks like a duck, then it probably is a duck.
It is the speedometer cable. I had been pulling on the cable to fix the SLOSH fuel gauge issue.
It's one of those moments when guys like you keep me centered and let me rethink problems. I think my foot was hitting the cable. It is right behind the gas pedal.

Thank you for having this plethora of information and great people to share our issues. Thanks guys!

John

 

[1990 Ranger]

I get a clicking noise from behind the dashboard when I put it in 4-wheel drive or lock the front hubs while driving. It sounds like the speedometer cable. I have checked that twice.

John

Hi there - I am suffering with the same problem (and it also doesn't go into 4-wheel drive). I have changed to manual locking hubs thinking that would take care of it - no luck. I fixed the transfer case actuator motor (replaced that little bushing) with still no luck. I currently have a new actuator motor on order in hopes that will take care of it. Maybe, but I am not convinced. The clicking noise increases as I speed up, so I usually just stop and take it out of 4-wheel drive and unlock the hubs. Don't want to damage anything, and since it doesn't go into 4-wheel drive - what's the use? Sometimes the clicking goes on for a few seconds when I start up again, and then it stops (after taking it out of 4x4 mode). If it was the speedometer cable, then why does it only occur when I try to use the 4-wheel drive? I am confused and would really love to have some help evaluating and resolving this issue! I have a 1990 Ranger with the 4.0 engine, auto trans.
Thanks for any help!

 

[franklin2]

I do not like the electronic shift transfer case setup in these little trucks. It always gives problems. Go to a bunch of trouble and spend a bunch of money and you finally get it working. Guess what? About a year or two later it craps out again. I got tired of it and ran some wires and a toggle switch under the dash and used that to shift my transfer case. Always worked.

 

[1990 Ranger]

I like that idea. I'm almost ready to fix up a lever to do the shifting manually! If this new motor doesn't work, I will try the toggle switch idea first.
Thanks!

 

[franklin2]

You need a double pole, double throw, center off switch spring loaded to off. You then wire two wires to the switch in a "X" configuration. This will switch the polarity to the motor to make it turn one way and then the other. Here is a switch already wired with the X if you want to just buy it. It's not cheap but it's large enough to handle the motor load for many years.

DPDT-CO 30 Amp Momentary Toggle Switch GlideForce SWT-TOG-MOM-4W | GlideForce | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

The hardest part after this is figuring out what gear the transfer case is in. I later on got to the shift computer under the dash panel, and with a wiring diagram I hooked the console lights directly to the switches on the motor itself and it would light up the lights in the console when I moved the shift motor with the toggle. I will warn you, they must have used something less than 12v on the shift motor because when you apply 12v, the shift motor moves fast. I found it's better to just bump the switch momentarily when shifting the transfer case.

 

[1990 Ranger]

Sounds like an option that might just bypass some of the issues I am dealing with (if I can get it to actually kick into 4-wheel drive). I wonder if you could put a resistor in the circuit to decrease the voltage so it wouldn't cause the shift motor to spin so fast. Something I might research.
Thanks for the info!

 

[John RTC Engine Lab]

This is from start to finish after my neighbor passed away last August and it was given to me.
200,034.00 miles on it. Fuel gauge not working. 4x4 not working. Dash lights dead. E brake not working.
First, fix the fuel gauge.

1. I pulled the instrument cluster. Searched speedo cable disconnect.
2. replaced 14, 17 bulbs? a lot of bulbs
3. Searched SLOSH module
4. bought a new one
5. fixed original module by replacing the capacitor and installed.
6. Removed bed and replaced fuel pump/fuel sender.
7. Fuel gauge works.
8. searched 4x4 shift motor control
9. bought new shift motor and a used module with connectors.
10. installed new shift motor from amazon (plastic)
11. Clicking noise
12. installed manual hubs
13. rebuilt original shift motor and installed
14. still clicking
15. pulled instrument cluster again
16. disconnected speedo cable at transfer case
17. pulled speedo cable out enough to insure proper fit into instrument cluster
18. still clicking
19. readjusted speedo cable at firewall; that stopped clicking when not in 4x4
20. 4x4 still clicking
21. brought to work, put on lift
22. checked for worn u joints, everything is tight
23. bought Spicer spindle needle bearings for the axles
24. waiting for the rain to stop after 4 months to install

This has been a 6-month project. All I have to do now is R&R spindle bearings and u joints. Laying on my back in the driveway is going to suck. I'm 50/50 on spindle bearings or u joints are the issue. I'll keep you posted.
The E brake I pulled and douched with wd40.

 

[1990 Ranger]

Wow! That's quite the list of activities! Fortunately, my list is shorter.... Even before I was able to drive it I had to get keys made, since the owner had lost the set. The Ranger is old enough that they don't have records of how to key the ingnition, so had to have that replaced. The locksmith was able to re-key the doors, which saved me a little.
When I got the truck driving it had a terrible noise in the front end, driver side... barely got it home.

1. Checked bearings - they were shot.
2. Replaced bearings in front (noise went away).
3. Noticed that every time I would get gas it would spill out on the road - suspected that the fill hose was broken.
4. Confirmed bad hose. Bought new hose (cheap online version).
5. Installed hose. It was so soft that it collapsed, so I had to cannibalize the old one to make a new one that would work. Oh yeah - you have to take off the truck bed to get to all of it, so several times doing that before it was functional.
6. Noticed that if you sit in the passenger seat and lean back, it will automatically recline. Discovered that when I had to pick up my 90-year-old dad from the hospital. He was not happy with the sudden transition. Still haven't fixed that (just tell people they have to sit up straight if they are going to ride with me!)
7. Couldn't get it into 4-wheel drive (suspected the auto-hubs were not engaging)
8. Got manual hubs and installed them.
9. 4-wheel drive still not engaging, but when I would lock in the hubs it would start this clicking noise that would increase with speed (seemed to come from the driver side more than the passenger side).
10. Thought that the manual hubs were not locking in, so tore the front apart (again) to evaluate - seemed to be engaging as designed.
11. Read a lot online about shift motor having problems with a bushing, so decided to tear that out and evaluate.
12. Was going to drive it into my wife's garage, but the incline and snow was too much (and I didn't have 4-wheel drive), so after getting stuck and having to use a chain and tow strap with come-along hooked to the tree in front of the house just to get it out, I decided to do the work in the carport (which has a permanent leak from the house heating unit), so ended up lying in water while I tried to repair the shift motor!
13. Couldn't get the red wire harness retaining circle out of the socket, so I couldn't get it away from under the truck; ended up working on it while lying in the water in the cramped quarters (I should have at least jacked up the truck so I had more room...). By the way, if anyone has a simple way to remove that red plastic retaining ring in the socket / wire harness I would really appreciate the help. I will need to do that when the new shift motor comes.
14. Bushing WAS bad, so replaced it and put the motor back together.
15. Reinstalled the shift motor onto the transfer case, making sure everything was lined up correctly.
16. Started the truck up, locked in the hubs, put it in 4-wheel drive, and gave it a test run.
17. No change - still a clicking noise that increases with acceleration.
18. Posted my dilemma on The Ranger Station Forum.

(don't you just love these old trucks?)!!!

 

[franklin2]

When you guys have 4x4 problems, there are some checks you can make.

1st The hubs. You can jack up the tire on the driver's side, and if you have manual hubs, you can spin the tire while unlocked. Then lock the hub and spin it again, you should see when looking under the truck the front u-joint behind the wheel turns when it is locked and you turn the tire by hand, and stops turning when unlocked. You can then do the other side. If ONE hub fails to lock, you lose your 4x4 altogether.
If you have auto hubs, all you have to do is with the truck sitting still and off, get under the truck and turn the front driveshaft. It should turn just a little bit and then lock if both auto hubs are working. After this test, you will need to back up 10ft in 2wd to unlock them.

2nd the transfer case. Put the transfer case in 4x4 high. Then get out again and try to turn the front driveshaft. If you have manual hubs, leave them unlocked. With the transfer case in 4x4 mode, you should not be able to turn the driveshaft. For the clicking noise, apparently you are not in 4x4 mode when you get the clicking noise, so if you can still turn the front driveshaft, turn it as fast s you can and see if it makes this clicking noise and see if you can determine where it's coming from. But I would fix the obvious thing first, if it's not going into 4x4 mode, I would get that problem solved first.
If you have auto hubs, With the transfer case in 4x4 mode, you should not be able to turn the front driveshaft much at all. Not enough to lock the hubs.