1990 Ranger 302 swap

[scotts90ranger]

If you want to go down more in the back and still have an overload leaf just take that out, the longer leaves do more for axle wrap than the shorter ones or just flip over the overload so it still does some...

 

[tjm73]

You can also have the rear leaf springs re-arched to adjust ride height. Very common in the hot rod world. Could also have the leaf eye reversed. Several options without changing the rate of the springs.

 

[JokerLS240]

I don't want to go any lower, just want a softer ride in the back.

I got the Crown Vic Interceptor wheels put on the front today. They fit great with the 3" drop springs. Now I need 2 more for the rear.

They did barely rub the bolts on the tie rod adjuster clamps, but I only had turn them towards the back of the rod to clear the wheels.

 

[tjm73]

Those fit nice. They're 17x7.5 with +44mm offset.

If you want nice looking aluminum wheels, you should look at '05 and newer Mustang wheels. They'll have the right kind of back space/off set. The 2005 Mustang GT torque thrust like wheel is 17x8 with +45mm of offset. I have a pic of a first gen truck with them on it on my laptop. When I get on my laptop later I'll try to find that pic and post it. They look pretty good and they are widely available.

There are other factory wheels that look good and some aftermarket as well.

 

[tjm73]

Here's the Ranger with the 17x8 2005 (S197) Mustang wheels. No idea whose truck this is or where I snagged the picture. I just liked the stance and look.

 

[JokerLS240]

That is a good tip on the Mustang fitment. I'll see what's out there if I get tired of the steelies.

I feel like the Torq Thrust look is played out. Just about every hot rod and wannabe hot rod around here has them. They look great, but I think I prefer the PI wheels on this truck after seeing them on it.

 

[JokerLS240]

Here's the Ranger with the 17x8 2005 (S197) Mustang wheels. No idea whose truck this is or where I snagged the picture. I just liked the stance and look.

View attachment 141937

I think there may be something different with my rotors. They're from Rock Auto and they look like the front wheels are set wider than the rear when I had the Mustang wheels on. Now with the PI wheels tucked in more, they look closer to the same width but the back wheels look like they're still tucked in more.

The rear axle is from a 2nd gen 4x4, 89 I think, not the 83-88 in my original post. The drums are the 10" from Amazon. My truck originally came with 9" drums.

Is the 4wd axle a different width? Is it possible that a cheap set of rotors would have different thickness than original?

Edit: I think the rear fenders flare out more than the front, making it look off. I'm 45 and my eyes aren't what they used to be.

 

[tjm73]

4x4 and 2WD axles are the same width regardless of the brakes on them. The '83-'92 truck axles are 56.5" or so and the '93-'11 trucks are all 58.5" or so.

I suspect the white truck in the pic has a narrowed Explorer axle with disc brakes.

I also think the torque thrust wheel is a little played out. But at least it gives a visual reference for wheel size and backspace.

The bedsides and the front fenders don't flare differently but the front and rear track width is different making things look catawompus. You can correct this with wheel spacers in the rear.

The front track width is 55" and the rear is 54.6". Small difference but I think it's visually noticeable. Throw a pair of 1/4" spacers on the back and that's gone. From what I have read the difference is supposed to have some turning benefit but I've never noticed anything on any vehicle I have ever owned.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

4x4 and 2WD axles are the same width regardless of the brakes on them. The '83-'92 truck axles are 56.5" or so and the '93-'11 trucks are all 58.5" or so.

I suspect the white truck in the pic has a narrowed Explorer axle with disc brakes.

I also think the torque thrust wheel is a little played out. But at least it gives a visual reference for wheel size and backspace.

The bedsides and the front fenders don't flare differently but the front and rear track width is different making things look catawompus. You can correct this with wheel spacers in the rear.

A lot of Mustangs (especially newer ones) have the offset more like a FWD car. Looking at that truck, the calipers are to the rear like an Explorer axle... but I don't think it is narrowed.

 

[tjm73]

A lot of Mustangs (especially newer ones) have the offset more like a FWD car. Looking at that truck, the calipers are to the rear like an Explorer axle... but I don't think it is narrowed.

It must be narrowed. The Explorer axle is 59-5/8" wide. The stock 1Gen Ranger axle is like 56-1/2". 3" wider overall is a lot. Narrowed for two short axles brings the Explorer to 56-3/4" which is almost the same as the stock Ranger width.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It must be narrowed. The Explorer axle is 59-5/8" wide. The stock 1Gen Ranger axle is like 56-1/2". 3" wider overall is a lot. Narrowed for two short axles brings the Explorer to 56-3/4" which is almost the same as the stock Ranger width.

Its hard to tell by the pic but the wheel mounting surface looks pretty close to where it is in my un-narrowed Explorer axle. My rear axle width is identical to my front axle (out of a '95 Ranger) and this one is pretty much spot on for matching the front as well.

The trucks are like comparing a potato to an orange though, mine is lifted and being a first gen has smaller wheel wells than the pictured second gen so maybe that is throwing me off too.

 

[tjm73]

Hey OP, any updates with your truck?

 

[JokerLS240]

Not a whole lot. I did get a second pair of Interceptor wheels put on the back. It looks a lot better but now the rear wheels look like they're more tucked in than the front again. I measured the gap between the inner fender lip and the sidewall with the Mustang wheels and the Crown Vic wheels and it came out to about an inch difference. I'm going to try a 1" spacer and see what that does.

That's the only pic I have at the moment. It's hard to get a picture of the side that shows what I'm seeing in person.

I also had to replace one of the rear axle/wheel seals. While I was doing that I found that one of the retainer pins that hold the brake shoes in place came loose. The cup for the spring got mangled so I had to dig around the shop to find an original one.

I keep forgetting that I haven't posted any interior pics. It's nothing special but would show how I managed the shifter location. I'll try to get that tomorrow.

 

[tjm73]

Shifter placement. That is a hurdle I'm still thinking about how I'm going jump. You still running a bench seat? I'll be watching for your pics.

 

[JokerLS240]

Got the pics. For reference, I'm using a stock-length Ranger driveshaft in the tail of a Foxbody T5. The factory tunnel cover was cut up by a previous owner, I assume to clear an M5OD. So I got some sheet metal from Lowes, cut it to fill the hole I needed, and used rivets and Lexel to hold it down.

The seat is 1 click away from being slid all the way back. In this next pic, the shifter is in second gear. I made the shift rod from a piece of brass bar. Back before COVID, I got a metal lathe from Harbor Freight and used that to drill and tap on end to 12mm x 1.75 and turn down the other end to cut 3/8-16 threads for most aftermarket shift knobs.

At first I couldn't decide if I wanted a Hurst knob with the 5-speed pattern on it or a #2 pool ball because it's blue. I finally settled on a cheap cue ball from Amazon that I drilled and tapped.

I didn't like how large the factory steering wheel was and how close it it set to me when I was in the seat, so I threw in a chrome Grant wheel with a Ford horn button.

Finally, the engine isn't wired to the dash and I needed something to monitor vitals with so I just got a cheap set of gauges from Amazon. Eventually I want to get a set of aftermarket gauges and a speedometer to replace the OEM cluster.