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1990 ford ranger 2.9 issues


pbc243

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2017
Messages
16
Transmission
Automatic
So ive been dealing with this sputtering issue for awhile now. Ive done the following already:
Replaced all Spark Plugs.
Replaced all Spark Plug wires.
Replaced Distributor Cap.
Verified Firing order is correct.
Replaced Coil Pack.
Replaced ECT.
Replaced Thermostat.
Replaced Thermostat Sensor.
Replaced IAC valve.
Replaced IAT Sensor.
Replaced Air Filter.
Replaced Fuel Filter.
Replaced TPS also adjusted.
Cleaned Throttle body and replaced gaskets.


Today I replaced all 6 fuel injectors and now the truck seems to be doing even worse. There are no leaks from injectors or FPR. Battery was unplugged for 30 seconds to reset ECM. Only codes I get are 10 and 11.


Help?
 
Checked timing?

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
 
You need a timing light.
 
Checking time is fairly easy. You will need a timing light/gun. You can Google the process or maybe some one can post the details here. I'm no expert, but noticed it was missing from your list.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
 
Buddy of mine mentioned it could be a bad o2 sensor? Ive replaced damn near everything else. Could that be the case? I have no check engine lights though.


Ill look into checking the timing. Gona have to invest in one of those timing light things
 
Last edited:
If you plan to keep the 2.9 invest in a good timing light.

It's pretty straight forward. Get the engine warm, hook up your light per the instructions that come with it. Then look near the passenger side of the intake, near the middle runner, you should find a jumper plug, take it out, start the engine, and shoot the light at the crank pulley. If find it helps to find your 10* mark and then put some white paint on it before starting.
 
If you plan to keep the 2.9 invest in a good timing light.

It's pretty straight forward. Get the engine warm, hook up your light per the instructions that come with it. Then look near the passenger side of the intake, near the middle runner, you should find a jumper plug, take it out, start the engine, and shoot the light at the crank pulley. If find it helps to find your 10* mark and then put some white paint on it before starting.

I got a buddy coming over with one tomorrow, will post results from that. I do want to invest in a good one though so i dont have to rely on other peoples tools haha.

Hopefully thats the issue. If not then back to the drawing board.
 
do a compression test
 
On a side note you can always just loosten the distributor a little...13mm bolt, n rotate it while its running to see if it smooths out a bit
 
I got underneath it and the o2 sensor wirng is completley exposed and the sensor it stuff had bout an inch thick of shit all over it haha. I got a timing light finally, going to check that & do what you said todo with the distributor
 

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