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1988 ranger super 2.9 draining radiator fluid


gi728

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Active
Joined
Oct 1, 2010
Messages
72
City
Havelock, NC/ Horeseheads, NY
Vehicle Year
1988/ 2004/ 200
Transmission
Manual
All right, this truck has ran like a champ since i bought it. And i think it is upset that i bought a new car. It is leaking radiator fluid out of the back of the motor. I can not see where it is coming from. It is not knocking, smoking, or starting rough. I know it has to be something lose, but I can not find it. if anybody has any ideas of what it may be please let me know.


Thank you,
Cpl. J. Frycek
USMC
Gi728@yahoo.com
 
freeze plug?
head gasket?
i really don't know without seeing it...
 
a pressure tester will force the leak and make it easier to spot.what is coming out the tail pipe?plain water is normal green is probably the cylinder head
 
Could be a heater core hose, head gasket, intake gasket, freeze out plug.. you name it.
Just going to have to stick your head back there and have a real good look.
 
I had the same problem on my BII and it ended up being the feeeze plug on the pass side back of the head. I pulled the motor and replaced all the plugs with brass ones from napa. I was surprised how bad all the stock plugs were.
 
pools puring out above the tranny. I'm thinking freeze plug becuase there is not smoke, or chatter. And nothing in the oil.
 
The plugs on back of the heads would be a bit@h. I wanted to install a new oil pump so I was going to pull the motor anyways. The owner before me tried to fix it with JB weld and it worked for over a year. If anything just pull the heads and replace the front and rear plugs
 
I reckon it could be done with out completely removing the engine but you would have to remove the rad, fan and shroud, exhaust, drop the drive shaft, unbolt and remove the trans mount, remove and block the trans lines ( MAYBE ), raise the engine off the mounts and pull her forward to reach them.
 
I reckon it could be done with out completely removing the engine but you would have to remove the rad, fan and shroud, exhaust, drop the drive shaft, unbolt and remove the trans mount, remove and block the trans lines ( MAYBE ), raise the engine off the mounts and pull her forward to reach them.

At that point, two rad hoses, a fuel line, and a cannon plug would let the motor out lol.
 
A lot Of things could be done to do it without removing the engine. But I think it'd be worth it to pull it. Unless it's the one on the heads. Then just remove the heads
 
Even then your looking at pulling the distributor, draining the rad fluid and hoses, heater core hoses, removing the fuel lines, removing the plugs, wires, coil packs, upper intake, lower intake, exhaust pipe on both sides, accessories and brackets, EGR and heat exchange pipes etc etc etc. Would still be simpler to pull the engine IMHO.
 
but to pull the engine you still have motor mounts, bellhousing bolts, and torque converter bolts.. and a cherry picker. when you only need the heads off, why pull the motor then pull the heads? that's my personal opinion.

with air tools and 2 sets of hands, we had my 2.9 out in about 2 hours, so no big deal either way..
 
Because you do not need to pull the heads to install freeze out plugs. Just proper access to plugs on the rear of the heads.
 

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