1988 2.9L neutral safety switch?

[35Remmy]

It actually broke off almost flush with the boot that encases the harness where it enters the door.....i had no choice but to cleanly slice boot in half to access the harness.......
So, in theory, i should achieve continuity at SOME point in this ground wire from where it broke back to the switch, right?

 

[RobbieD]

edit here >>>Not on the switch side; you should have continuity to ground on the fender side (towards G101). >>> In this case, you start testing at the beginning point (G101) and work your way back to end point- which is where you found no ground at the driver switch. The broken wire- does it test good on the fender side? If so, a repair splice reconnecting the break should restore ground at the switch.

 

[35Remmy]

ALRIGHT, WERE GETTING SOMEWHERE!!! I now have power windows!!!!!!!! And drivers side UNLOCK works, but for some reason the LOCK button isnt activating the relay or doing anything

 

[RobbieD]

Congratulations! Progress is good.

LOCK button not activating:
Look at EVTM diagram. When the driver switch is pushed to LOCK, the pink/yellow (119) should go to ground.
Easiest test:
Meter to DC VOLTS.
Meter red probe to a power source- go to a live fuse in the fusebox, or poke the meter red probe back into the power window light blue / black and turn the ignition ON (or ACC).
Poke the meter black probe into the pink / yellow (119) wire touching the terminal, and push the switch to LOCK (meter reads 12V = pass).

 

[35Remmy]

Will test in a few! Thanks for all your help man, couldnt have done it without you!!!

 

[RobbieD]

I'm glad that you're working your way through all of these electrical issues, and you're getting better at it as you go.

I like seeing what people are doing with these first generation Rangers, and hope that you'll post pics of your truck, when it's finished.

 

[35Remmy]

Ok Rob, I did as you said and i still get 12V when LOCK is depressed

 

[35Remmy]

Oh....by the way....door lock is energizing the relay, but not the actuator in the door....should i go ahead and test actuator connector per EVTM?

 

[RobbieD]

If the relay is clicking, then you're good between the switch and the relay (the click is the relay coil working relay contacts). So yes, now you need to look the relays outputs.

First, confirm that both relays click- one should click when the switch is pushed LOCK, and the other relay should click when the switch is pressed UNLOCK.
Make sure that both relays are clicking as described. If not find the issue between the switch and the relays first. If both click, check the two relay outputs together as follows.

Set meter to DC VOLTS. The meter's red lead, black lead doesn't matter for these tests. Poke one meter probe into the lock relay connector, on the pink / black (117) wire terminal. Poke the other meter probe into the unlock relay connector on the pink / orange (118) wire terminal.
Operate the doorlock switch both directions (LOCK and UNLOCK). Pass = seeing the meter alternatively read + 12 volts and then "-" 12 volts (negative 12 volts) as the switch is cycled back and forth.

Note that these wire colors, pink / black (117) and pink / orange (118), are the lock and unlock wires to both of the actuators in the doors, and they should retain these colors throughout. You can use the meter, and the test I just described, on these two wires at any point between the relays and actuators. Also note that your meter may not "see" a full 12 volt reading, when the actuators are working (operating actuators will create a voltage drop). The circuit operation is called "reversal, rest at ground". The 117 and 118 wires are normally grounded, until one relay activates, which changes one of the wires to + 12 volts. The second wire stays grounded, which completes the circuit.

Keep beating on it, man. You're actually doing good.

 

[35Remmy]

Robbie thats the problem, UNLOCK is not clicking the unlock relay. Passenger side is, so i know the relay itself is good. I also switched out the lock/unlock switch for another one and same result

 

[RobbieD]

OK. I think that I'm following you here. If the passenger switch clicks the unlock relay but the driver switch won't click the unlock relay, you likely have a break in the pink / light green (120) wire between the driver switch and the unlock relay.

Behind the driver switch, use your meter to confirm that the pink / light green (120) wire is going to ground when the switch is pushed UNLOCK (you probably know by now, but just in case, set meter to DC VOLTS, meter red lead to a power source, and meter black lead to pink / light green).

Then do the same test to the pink / light green (120) wire where it goes into the unlock relay.

Since you found a broken switch ground wire (black 57) in the door harness at the grommet, there's a good chance that's where you'll find a break in the pink / light green (120) wire, if your testing shows "pass" at the switch but "fail" at the relay.

 

[35Remmy]

Ok, i will test....i jumped the gun a little and removed actuator.....applied 12 volts to it.....nothing.

 

[RobbieD]

Yeah, let's try to get it to where both relays will click (depending on the switch being moved to LOCK or UNLOCK) and seeing output (+ voltage) on the actuator wires coming out of the relays.

If you're testing an actuator, with it unplugged from the truck's harness, one wire needs ground, the other wire needs a + 12 volt pulse applied.

 

[35Remmy]

I just tried jumping it off of the battery, positive and negative to both terminals, nothing.

 

[35Remmy]

Rob, my manual is only showing P/LG on passenger door lock switch. On drivers side, its showing PK/Y and PK/LG..........red lead to power, negative lead to P/LG im getting nothing whether the switch is depressed or not. On LOCK im reading a -10V at rest and 12.8V when depressed