1988 2.9L neutral safety switch?

[35Remmy]

Wait no its showing P/LG, nevermind. Ive been up since 4am, lil groggy lol. I work a crazy schedule so when im off i take advantage

 

[RobbieD]

Wait no its showing P/LG, nevermind. Ive been up since 4am, lil groggy lol. I work a crazy schedule so when im off i take advantage

Don't sweat it, man. I normally work at night, so this "corona vacation" has me all jacked up, too.

In your prior post, you said ".........red lead to power, negative lead to P/LG im getting nothing whether the switch is depressed or not. On LOCK im reading a -10V at rest and 12.8V when depressed".

Where were you making this test, at the switch or relay?

These comments may help you sort things out.

"At rest" both of the switch-to-relay wires, pink / yellow and pink / light green, will show + 12 volts on a meter, because the circuit goes through the relay coil to a + 12 volt source (i.e. black / white (517) through fuse link P). When the switch is moved to, say, UNLOCK, the pink / light green wire is grounded, which in turn energizes the coil which moves the contact within the relay.

On the relay's outputs, pink / yellow and pink / orange, "at rest" both of these wires are at a "hard" ground through the normally-closed (NC) relay contacts. When one of the relays is activated by its coil being energized, its output changes from hard ground, on the NC, to + 12 volts because the contact moves to the normally open (NO) contact which is connected to + 12 volts. The OTHER relay output HAS to stay grounded, so that the power switched to the actuator has a return path back to ground, to complete the circuit.

Your not reading anything on pink / light green is an issue; it should have power at rest, then ground when the switch moves to UNLOCK. Get some rest, then give it another shot. You will get it sorted out.

 

[35Remmy]

So i should have power at BOTH lock and unlock buttons on the back of the switch correct? Im following the pink/light green to look for any breaks.....EDIT....i have power to the pink and light green at the relay side.....looking at wire where it goes into door, bent pretty bad

 

[RobbieD]

So i should have power at BOTH lock and unlock buttons on the back of the switch correct? Im following the pink/light green to look for any breaks

Yes; both should rest at + 12 volts. See if you can read this + voltage at the relay, and then at the switch. If "yes" at the relay, but "no" at the switch, then you definitely have a break in the wire. The most likely place for a break is in the harness right where it goes into the door (i.e.- the harness flexing point).

 

[35Remmy]

FIXED!!!

 

[35Remmy]

Wire was broken inside the insulation, i have power and switch works!!!!!!!!!! Yes it was broken at the flex point.

 

[RobbieD]

ALLRIGHT!!! Way to go, Sparky!

Seriously, you did some great work on tracking these issues down. Keep on putting that old truck together, and holler if you run into anything else.

P.S.- Remember, we want to see some pictures of this truck when you get done.

 

[35Remmy]

Well, there is one more thing........LOL.....should i start a different post? Starter relay on fender not energizing when i turn the key, i.e no power to the starter cable. Yes i can jump both positive posts and get power that way......i DO NOT have NSS hooked up as i still have to splice the c4 NSS into the A4LD switch and was wondering if this is related

 

[Curious Hound]

Well, there is one more thing........LOL.....should i start a different post? Starter relay on fender not energizing when i turn the key, i.e no power to the starter cable. Yes i can jump both positive posts and get power that way......i DO NOT have NSS hooked up as i still have to splice the c4 NSS into the A4LD switch and was wondering if this is related

Yes. That’s related. The NSS is in series in that circuit. Get the NSS fixed and you will probably be good to go,

 

[RobbieD]

Yes. That’s related. The NSS is in series in that circuit. Get the NSS fixed and you will probably be good to go,

Agreed!