1987 Ranger driveshaft?

[slc10844]

Bought a 87 Ranger, ext cab, 5sp manual transmission, earlier this year and it has a bad driveline vibration between 30-45mph. Replaced tires, replaced the driveshaft center support bearing, and sent the driveshaft out to be checked and balanced. Even tried indexing the driveshaft to the pinion flange. Nothing I did made any difference except changing the rear axle ratio from 3.54 - 3.73 which brought the vibration in sooner. I checked for TSBs and found one that fits my problem exactly. TSB 91-13-11 Boom/Vibration when driving at 25-50 MPH-4X2 super cab models built prior to 12/15/89. The repair is to replace the driveshaft with a "new tighter fitting driveshaft" assembly. My question is, does anybody know how to tell the difference between the two? I'm looking to buy a driveshaft but don't want one like I already have.

 

[jcook1994]

if yours in the 2.9 v6 and 4x4 i have the same exact truck as you. I just bought my ranger like a month ago and i knew i needed to replace the driveshaft cause the u joints were bad. then the ujoints gave and actually broke the yoke on my driveshaft. Yours should be the 2 piece driveshaft like mine and i coulnd't find the short driveshaft from the carrier bearing to the transfer case anywhere so i converted to a single driveshaft. Its really easy to do and whether your in a shop or not it still can be done on the ground. If you can find a driveshaft shop near you try taking your old driveshafts to them and ask them to make you a single driveshaft and they might need measurements from your truck..i went to standard auto and then needed the length from my carrier bearing to transfercase were driveshaft connects to and it wouldn't be a bad idea to get from carrier bearing to rear diff. here is the procedure on how to convert.
1. take out all the bolts holding the driveshafts in there then remove them.
2.take the carrier bearing out should be 2 nuts and bolts.
3.take a grinder and cut the 4 rivets off holding the crossmember.
4. remove crossmember completetly out of the truck.
5. install new single driveshaft

 

[pcollins]

^^why didn't you just replace the U-Joints before they took out the whole driveshaft. Would have saved some hassle and money.

 

[jcook1994]

yeah i just bought the truck and got a decent price on it and i was gonna put new u joints in and already had them 2 days later but had to drive it to my shop to put it in but on the way home it went heard a pop and truck acted like it was in neutral so i costed and slowed down and pulled over and i saw my drive shaft hangin down and it broke the driveshaft when it went :/ but i converted it and after $250 later i now have about a 3 inch in diameter driveshaft so its bigger and stronger and came with brand new u joints (greasable) all the way around

 

[pcollins]

ahh. shitty time then basically. I remember first time doing U joints on my '97. 15 year old truck in the rust belt. Small propane torch a hammer and a socket. oh and about a whole can of PB blaster.

 

[jcook1994]

haha yeah i bet...the guy who had my truck before me basically rhino lined the whole frame and everything underneath so it doesn't look rusty its all black