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1987 Ranger 2.9L V6 Dual Tanks


free_ranger

Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
7
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
2.9 starts after sitting; dies at idle, repeat?

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Hey all-
Came home from a month away and my 87 Ranger would crank, but not start. Changed my fuel filter (which helped) drove to the gas station, added some injector cleaner, headed home and it died. Back to same crank but no start after that. Eventually, after a couple of hours of sitting, it started and limped home a few blocks.

So...changing the filter seemed to solve the problem, but then it went back to it's same deal. When I'm cranking, but not starting, my fuel gauge is dropping at a noticable rate. I have fuel in both tanks and the last major tune up was maybe 20k ago. 195k miles. Mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic.

Fired it up today and ran it at idle and giving it RPM's in my driveway. Did this for 5 minutes or so and then it just died at idle. Took a few trys and then it turned over again; but no confidence leaving the driveway.

Any thoughts?
 
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When u changed gas filter did you happen to drain the gas into a container.
I would suspect water, had a similiar problem would idle for most part but as soon as put in gear would die. Put heet in it but way too much water in the tank for it to take care of.

changing gas filter found large amounts of water in it when drained into a glass.
Turns out taking bed off to drop gas tank the filler neck was totally weather checked etc.

you could take off out going gas line off then put appropiate gas hose on the end then using your ign key cycle your pump on a couple times.

or your selector valve maybe stuck if gas gauge moving hopefully puting the gas into the other tank. Dont know much about them currently working on a 86 with dual tanks.... might have to put a 4.0 in it bearings arent looking good.
 
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Thanks for the tip. I haven't disposed of the filter yet, so I'll check for water tonight. What did you do to get rid of your water? Drain the tank?
 
Thanks for the tip. I haven't disposed of the filter yet, so I'll check for water tonight. What did you do to get rid of your water? Drain the tank?

yes draining the tank is about the only thing that gets rid of the water.

might not be fuel related either....remove and test the TFI...(aka ignition module attached to the distributor housing .

check and clean grounds
 
When u changed gas filter did you happen to drain the gas into a container.
I would suspect water, had a similiar problem would idle for most part but as soon as put in gear would die. Put heet in it but way too much water in the tank for it to take care of.

changing gas filter found large amounts of water in it when drained into a glass.
Turns out taking bed off to drop gas tank the filler neck was totally weather checked etc.

you could take off out going gas line off then put appropiate gas hose on the end then using your ign key cycle your pump on a couple times.

or your selector valve maybe stuck if gas gauge moving hopefully puting the gas into the other tank. Dont know much about them currently working on a 86 with dual tanks.... might have to put a 4.0 in it bearings arent looking good.

while water ould be the culprit, all that is a little bit 2 much work w/o some basic diagnosis first

yes draining the tank is about the only thing that gets rid of the water.

might not be fuel related either....remove and test the TFI...(aka ignition module attached to the distributor housing .

check and clean grounds

like i said above, some basic diagnosis is required...jumping str8 to the tfi and grounds, while common problems, are not the correct way

first, try to replicate the problem. when the problem occurs, use a fuel pressure tester to test your fuel pressure at the shrader valve on the fuel rail...should be 35-45 KOE OFF and 30-40 KOE ON if i remember correctly, but certainly look the specs up to make sure. if there is no fuel pressure,
check to see if you can hear your fuel pumps running when you turn your key on. there is a fuel pump in your tank and one of the driver side frame rail behind the fuel filter. if the you cant hear the pumps run, that doesnt mean they arent running(most you can hear run, some you cant). see if the brown(EEC power) and green (fuel pump) relays are clicking over(located on the passenger side fender area by the air box). if they are, use a DVOM to test voltage out of the fuel pump relay - this will require a helper, as the ECM will only supply voltage to the fuel pumps for 2 seconds if the engine is not running. if you do have 12v coming out of the relay, check voltage to the inertia switch 0 its under the carpet on the passenger side foot well inside the cab. make sure its not tripped, make sure you're getting voltage to it, and backprobe it to make sure your getting voltage out of it. if there is voltage out of the intertia swtich it might be time to take it to a mechanic, as any further diagnosis tends to get more involved, finding the fuel pump plugs and what not.

if you did have the proper fuel pressure, check for spark. take a plug out, plug it into the spark plug wire, lay(or hold with insulated pliers) the plug on a ground pount or frame or someplace you can easily see, and see if the plug sparks. this will be easier to see at night...or if u have a spark tester use that, those are very easy to see. seeing as this problem tends to be intermittent, if you have no spark, it could be your TFI or your coil...but TFI's are very tempermental, and even when tested as good can still be bad. a coil test is easier...its pretty much the same as a spark test. unplug the coil wire form the distributor, put a screw driver in it, lay it someplace to ground, and have someonme crank it over to see if you see spark. you could also test votlage to the coil to see if thats correct, but you will need to get a book out to know the proper readings.

if you had proper fuel pressure and spark, and the truck is not starting, then i would start looking to what Mysticcook said about water in the tank, although some dry-gass treatment would help if water is in the tank(its stuff u put in your tank and it either isolates or evpaorates the water out, used commonly in old diesals and boats)

if you have fuel pressure and spark, and the dry gass didnt help, it could still also be water/moisture(albeit, a lot, so draining and cleaning the tank would be worth a try at this point) but at this point you would have to start looking at engine diagnosis, such as checking compression and leak down tests and what not. i wouldnt be to concerned about this unless you've had current or recent past history of running problems, excessive oil burning, lack of power(well, its a 2.9, so this is relative), coolent burning, etc

hope this helped.

EDIT: ...i've edited this 5 times already lol
 
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Thanks all-

Hope to get back with some sucess after the weekend. Running a small boat right now that was having similar problems and there was a ton of water in the fuel filter...when it rains it pours I guess.

t.
 
If you have to drain the tank take your bed off much easier a t50 or t55 socket, tail lights out dissconect the wires. 3 screws for each gas filler neck then u can access the tanks a lot easier. I find this easier then doing everything underneath truck.

I check my fuel pressure by pushing in the schrader valve (keeping in mind this is gas) if it squirts high and hard or 30 to 40 psi worth you are prolly okay (poor mans test)
it will last a second or two. If it dribbles out after turning key on to prime could be your issue.

Anytime i work on fuel lines i usually do this if it doesnt start right away. Just to make sure there is no air and it is working.

pb blaster the 6 bolts under the bed helps having a friend help move is nice but not necessary (my kids are always gone when I could use them) hmmm! then u just have to man handle to one side passenger. course cardboard on ground or blankets minimize scratches.
 
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So..after shaking up the old fuel filter and pouring into a clear container, I didn't find water, but I found a gang of dirt, debris and grayish colored fuel. I pulled my plugs, which are not that old, and they were all pretty fouled, some more than others (#1, #2 I believe). Replaced my new fuel filter again and replaced plugs, also air filter. Just got home from a sucessful drive around the neighborhood, getting as far as third gear with some higher rpm's (sorry neighbors). Don't know if I should be happy or concerned for what could happen next, but for now, she's running and not choking, sputtering or quiting.
 
Ok...died on the way to work, had it towed to a shop. Turns out it is the TFI that's bad. How hard and costly is it replace on my own? I'm in the shop for $150 for diagnostic time and got quoted $412 to get her home with replacing the part and $530 with replacing the distributor. If this is a simple swap for someone that's more or less mechanically inclined, I'll do it myself. Your opinions/advice are greatly appreciated!
 
Ok...died on the way to work, had it towed to a shop. Turns out it is the TFI that's bad. How hard and costly is it replace on my own? I'm in the shop for $150 for diagnostic time and got quoted $412 to get her home with replacing the part and $530 with replacing the distributor. If this is a simple swap for someone that's more or less mechanically inclined, I'll do it myself. Your opinions/advice are greatly appreciated!

replacing the TFI is not that difficult...but you will need a approx $10. special socket/wrench. most parts store carry them

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html

the above ^link doesn't step you through the remove and replace procedure but does help with diagnostics and gives good pictorials as what is what. Nailzs did make a good point about proper testing as to helping you make repairs that are only needed.


seems pretty stiff prices...but they (the mechanics) have to eat too...but the whole distributor replacement thought ...would cover the possibility of the internal pick-up coil (hall effect sensor ) being a issue too.

replacing the whole distributor is a bit more tricky ...being that you need to make sure the base timing is correct (bit more to it than that...but it can be done). If you decide to go this route... tools you'll need a timing light, 13or14mm wrench or ..socket with swivel and and fairly long extension this for the distributor clamp. some say that they can get the wrench on this bolt but it is tight ,not a lot of room to swing.

in short, it is up to you ...how to repair this...hope this shed some light on the issue
 
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Ok...died on the way to work, had it towed to a shop. Turns out it is the TFI that's bad. How hard and costly is it replace on my own? I'm in the shop for $150 for diagnostic time and got quoted $412 to get her home with replacing the part and $530 with replacing the distributor. If this is a simple swap for someone that's more or less mechanically inclined, I'll do it myself. Your opinions/advice are greatly appreciated!

Not surprising....replaced my tfi couple times and last fall distributor too....bushings were worn out on it causing somewhat erratic spark.
 
Me being a frugal person I would try and do it myself and just replace the tfi should be able to get one for under $100.00. useing a piece of mirror to see what i am doing.Might take longer but darn if i can afford to pay someone else. Thats what your friends are for give you a ride or whatever.

And yes I have made some stupid mistakes. to me thats life and how I learn.
 

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