1986 Ford Ranger Shutting down!!!!!

[gertsdsbs]

So now I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor and checked the gasoline for signs of water and it now runs like shit. Still turns off but now it also shakes and its slow as hell thinking about sending it to a mechanic.Any other tips before i send it away.

 

[Shran]

Check the ignition coil and fuel pressure too. Fuel pressure should be around 30 at idle and 40 when you crack the throttle. Another thing to check would be vacuum leaks, particularly at the brake booster check valve and at the vacuum line that runs off the back of the fuel pressure regulator. I'd take a trip to the junkyard and grab an ignition coil off another truck instead of buying a new one to test it with.

I would also run a compression test on it to make sure you don't have a dead cylinder that is creating a miss. And make sure your timing is right on too.

Did you replace that TFI module? One more thing, is your exhaust clean and smell normal, or do you see any colored smoke with weird smells?

 

[gertsdsbs]

Where exactly if the TFI Module?

 

[Rangerman4158]

It should be on the side of the distributor its gray and if its original it'll say motorcraft

 

[Rangerman4158]

But if it shuts down after thirty or forty minutes you really need to look at your fuel pressure the tanks in the older rangers are metal and are very bad about rusting and will rust the pump into pieces i've had two rangers and they both did the same thing

 

[Shran]

But if it shuts down after thirty or forty minutes you really need to look at your fuel pressure the tanks in the older rangers are metal and are very bad about rusting and will rust the pump into pieces i've had two rangers and they both did the same thing

Also the 4" piece of rubber hose that connects the fuel pump to the sender will disintegrate into a 4" piece of goo, leaving you with no fuel pressure from the sender forward. Took me a while to figure this one out as I thought it was the high pressure pump at first. The sending unit/pumps in both tanks in my '86 had this problem.

And as mentioned above the TFI module is on the back of the distributor and is held in by two screws. You will need a $7 tool to remove it...just tell your parts store that you need the tool to remove a Ford ignition module. Chances are they will know what you're talking about.

 

[gertsdsbs]

Can the 1986 ford ranger be hooked up to the computer and get info off of it?

 

[Shran]

Can the 1986 ford ranger be hooked up to the computer and get info off of it?

With an ODB-1 code reader, yes. The diagnostic port is a red plug on the wiring harness near the heater box under the hood.

Generally speaking though, unless your check engine light is on, there really is no reason to do this... I think in your situation some general troubleshooting will lead to the solution.

 

[gertsdsbs]

I changed the TFI module and timed my truck. it doesnt shut down anymore but it shakes as i accelerate. I checked my wheel bearings and tighten them but it still shakes does anyone know what it can be. Thanks A lot guys!

 

[Shran]

Does it miss when you crack the throttle, or at high RPMs? If so it could be a vacuum leak among other things.

Could also be a bad u-joint.

 

[BLOODBANE]

With all the other things you have done to it now it should run like a top. Make sure everything you have gone over is tight and where its suppose to go......Make sure the TPS is correct.....

 

[gertsdsbs]

AAAAHHHH! Today i tried to clean my injectors and took the manifold apart, and relieved the fuel pressure. Half way through doing this i gave up and put it back together. The problem is that now it has high rpm. will this go away? is it normal?

 

[Shran]

Do you mean you took the upper intake manifold off, or just the fuel rail? Out of curiosity, why?

 

[gertsdsbs]

I don't know why, i guess i was just frustrated and yes it was the upper intake manifold.

 

[Shran]

OK...so... first off, Ford vehicles do idle fairly fast when the engine is cold. All of mine do this. Both of my Rangers will idle around 1500 RPM and my F150 idles around 1300, until they warm up. Idle speed should drop dramatically when this occurs. I believe spec is 850 RPM w/ auto tranny and 800 RPM w/ manual tranny. Since it is December, I wouldn't be surprised if this is what's happening.

If your idle speed doesn't drop, then you've got another problem. In my experience, it could be a bad throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, sticking butterfly valve in the throttle body, or a vacuum leak, presumably between the upper and lower intake manifolds since you took that apart. I would check the last one first. You can do this by spraying carb cleaner all around where the gasket is, and you will know when you find it because your engine will either sputter or rev up.

A vacuum leak sounds likely because of the theory behind it. Because air is entering the engine from places that it shouldn't, the computer compensates for the leaner mixture by adding more fuel, thus producing higher idle speed.

I guess I need more information to help you troubleshoot this further, like exactly what you've done besides taking the upper intake off. A complete list of symptoms you have at this point would be good, too.