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1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 Idle/Stalling Problem Help!


I stuck my fingers inside the intake ports on the engine and felt around. It was pretty gritty and sandy-like. Probably carbon build up? I'm going to nix putting everything back on and just do the job right. I'll start taking off parts and make my way to removing the head. This way I can completely clean the rust build up inside the head and also replace the head gasket while I'm at it. You all know I'll be asking questions along the way and providing pictures as I go.

Thanks again for everyone's help thus far and hopefully we'll get 'er up and running again in the near future.

:icon_thumby:
 
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Now your wrenchin on a your Ranger!!!!! Get r done!!!!! Nice to see you aren't going to be cutting corners. And "make it work" if you know what I mean.

Here to help you out, anybody else?
 
Update: Got the alternator and air pump removed. I have no idea what to do next, let alone how to do it. I guess I could start with the exhaust manifold. I get nervous when it comes to the timing belt/cam.

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Wanted to show the nice trail of rusty water.
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If you are taking the exhaust manifold be careful not to break the bolts, but even if you are they can still break. I think you can take the head of with the manifold still on it. Your going to need to take the valve cover back off to get to the head bolts. If I had known you were going this far then I would have told you not to put the valve cover back on. But take it back off right when your at that step. You also have to get the timing belt off next. But your getting there.
 
If you are taking the exhaust manifold be careful not to break the bolts, but even if you are they can still break. I think you can take the head of with the manifold still on it. Your going to need to take the valve cover back off to get to the head bolts. If I had known you were going this far then I would have told you not to put the valve cover back on. But take it back off right when your at that step. You also have to get the timing belt off next. But your getting there.

For the past couple weeks I've been shooting WD40 on the exhaust bolts. I really want that off so I can clean the head properly while I'm replacing the head gasket. If I break one, what are the consequences?
 
fighting it out and tapping the hole so a nothing bolt will go in it ... i deff pain
 
If you break one good luck getting it out. My dad and I broke one and tried to get it out and failed so what he did was weld a peice of all thread to it and put a nut on it and called it fixed. To this day no leaks and no problems with it. When you do get them out make sure you put new bolts in with anti-seize on them. Clean out the holes first before doing that though.

BTW WD-40 is a lubracant, not a penatrent. Use PB buster to help.
 
but while its off you can but a header type man. and get a few more mpg and a little more power out of it
 
The exhaust manifold bolts actually come out a bit easier when they are heated...but that goes against the fact that metal expands when heated...just my experience with them...I've only broken ones that were cold in the junkyard...no way to heat them up because they won't let you take torches in...

You may want to invest in some new bolts anyways...I bought six new ones because the heads on mine were somewhat stripped...and don't use any locktite on them until you know you won't have to take them off again...

Other than that...I'd say take the exhaust off unless you've got a hoist to pull the head...or you're very strong...the head by itself weighs about 100 lbs...and is awkward enough to yank out without trying to lift the exhaust with it...but...if you had difficulty with the bolts then that may be your only choice...

Breaking them off isn't that hard to correct...but it is a PITA...

Have fun!
 
Putting a header on isn't going to give you a noticeable power increase on a 2.3. Just stick with what you have.

I used heat to help but I didn't use a propane torch, I used a MAPP gas torch. Got hotter and worked better.
 
Well, I couldn't get a good enough angle to remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold to the actual exhaust so I just removed the exhaust manifold bolts and let is hang. They came out quite easy, I think because of the wd40 I've been spraying on there the last week.

Now I'm stuck. I have the timing belt there (don't know how to remove it). And I'm ready to remove the valve cover and take out the cam.
 
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does he need to take the cam out to get the head off?
 
Ok, if I don't need to take the cam off that would be good. Can I still power wash the hell out of the head with the cam on there? I could just re-oil the cam real well before reinstalling.
 

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