1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 Idle/Stalling Problem Help!

[ianthegreat]

Allow me to continue this thread with my new 1985 Ford Ranger 2.0. I just bought a Ranger and drove it 50 miles to my house without any serious problems. Its a clunker though. Runs rough as hell and idles rough. Like I said drove it and it made it's way here. It passed test #1. No smoke, no knocking, just really rough.

Its a dirty little engine man. I mean dirty. I thought about dropping another engine in it, but I decided to try to revive this one. Mostly for fuel economy and ease of repair.
Here's a few pics first

I know, I know. Its dirty. The carb is like that. No air filter. All exposed

I want to clean it up first. I am really excited to get this engine TRANSFORMED!!!! I want to start cleaning it up. Should I go in with a water hose or power washer? If so, what do I cover up? I want to get new plug&wires, oil changed, K&N air filter KIT, ect. Maybe get the engine painted good. I really want to get a new carb on it. Anyone against am Edelbrock Performer???? Is that too much money to spend(about $265)??

Would it be easier to take the engine out or that wouldnt be neccessary. Let me know. Look forward to the transformation

Thanks guys and I look forward to everyone's help including RangerDanger83, Mark88, and even you ianthegreat.

The pictures you linked are from a private myspace profile. I think that means we have to be friends with you on myspace in order to view them. You could always upload them on www.imageshack.com and then cross post them here.

So your truck is running fine it's just dirty and you want to clean it up a bit? Am I understanding you correctly? In my opinion, and it may not mean much, but I would avoid spraying water directly on the engine. At least in my truck, a lot of the old wires are frayed/exposed. Also, with your carb sitting open water could go down into your intake manifold/head.

I took a lot of parts off my engine which made it easier to clean. You could always start with some engine degreaser and a bunch of paper shop towels!

 

[jjwlff]

Hope that fixes it. Yeah, I started detail cleaning it. I'm thinking the charge isn't holding too well. New battery. The alternator is original. May be going out.

I've had some starting problems too. Takes a long time. The previous owner said to turn the distributor. That doesnt make any sence. The distributor has to be perfectly syncD to make the sparks go at the right time? Does anyone know what he may mean?

 

[ianthegreat]

As far as I know, I wouldn't think adjusting the distributor would fix that. He's thinking that the timing may be off. If the timing was off you would probably notice a rough idle or poor drivability. By twisting the distributor you are effectively adjusting the timing of the spark at the top of the cylinder. (http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/ss/igntn-sys_descr.htm)

Actually, after re-reading your first post you did say it was running very rough. The timing could very well be off. Best way to check is to purchase a timing light.

 

[ianthegreat]

Truck is still running perfect.

 

[Mark_88]

Excellent...wondered how you were doing...

I just spent about 30 minutes (or more since I loose track of time on this forum) reading this from the start...monumental!

Still have good power and all that blue paint Ian?

 

[ianthegreat]

Excellent...wondered how you were doing...

I just spent about 30 minutes (or more since I loose track of time on this forum) reading this from the start...monumental!

Still have good power and all that blue paint Ian?

Blue paint doesn't look all that great anymore

I moved to Pittsburgh last year and the pick up unfortunately had to stay in Texas at home. I'm able to come back a few times a year and drive it. The parents (and neighbors) seem to be getting good use of it on their weekly Lowes and Home Depot trips at least.

Ran into a new snag that looks like it might take some time to fix. No pressure on the clutch pedal. I refilled the holding tank and noticed a leak immediately. When pumping the clutch (unable to start the truck), it is leaking where the line runs into the transmission or inbetween the transmission and lower back end of the engine. My guess is either the line running into the transmission needs replaced or the entire seal between the transmission and motor is shot. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about where/how the fluid moves through the engine to make a "best guess" at the problem. Let the research begin!

Still love the truck (and the repairs) and look forward to getting it back up and running.

 

[ianthegreat]

I do not believe it is leaking from the slave cylinder. I refilled the tank, cranked it a couple times with the clutch in, it started leaking out again, felt around the slave cylinder and no fluid. It's leaking out the bottom of the casing, which to me, means from somewhere within. How is this fluid distributed throughout the unit I am pointing at?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

**edit**

Found a great video explaining some of the issues. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE

My fluid is leaking out of those vents at the bottom of the housing. And I can feel no fluid leakage out the top of the slave cylinder.

 

[chilsam]

pic is missleading

I do not believe it is leaking from the slave cylinder. I refilled the tank, cranked it a couple times with the clutch in, it started leaking out again, felt around the slave cylinder and no fluid. It's leaking out the bottom of the casing, which to me, means from somewhere within. How is this fluid distributed throughout the unit I am pointing at?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

slave cyl is INSIDE the bellhousing afraid youll have to drop the tranny to service it.

 

[ianthegreat]

slave cyl is INSIDE the bellhousing afraid youll have to drop the tranny to service it.

Before doing that. Could there be ANY issue with my master cylinder causing this fluid dump in or around the slave cyl?

A master cyl issue sounds like something I could fix without having to fly all my tools back down on my next visit.


Looked at prices for these pieces, wow:

Master Cyl: $35
Slave Cyl: $120
Clutch: $99

Might as well do everything if you have to go that far...

 

[Mark_88]

Dang!

If the slave is leaking it will require dropping the transmission...I had mine done when I replaced the clutch (and had the short block installed)...

How many miles on the tranny?

Did you know you can upgrade to a newer version of the trannny? The M50D-R1 is a direct bolt on...if you have high mileage it might be worth considering...

Advantage is smoother shifting and slightly higher shift points (IIRC)...

I'm considering this myself...my tranny has over 400,000 on it and is probably the only original piece left...still smooth and strong though...

 

[ianthegreat]

Dang!

If the slave is leaking it will require dropping the transmission...I had mine done when I replaced the clutch (and had the short block installed)...

How many miles on the tranny?

Did you know you can upgrade to a newer version of the trannny? The M50D-R1 is a direct bolt on...if you have high mileage it might be worth considering...

Advantage is smoother shifting and slightly higher shift points (IIRC)...

I'm considering this myself...my tranny has over 400,000 on it and is probably the only original piece left...still smooth and strong though...

It looks like less parts than removing the head. I might give it a try, have until Monday, then have to head back to Pittsburgh. Going to bug the neighbors for some tools!

Quick question, what's the seal called where the transmission connects to the engine? I'll want to replace that as well.

 

[Mark_88]

That would be the rear main oil seal...not sure if you can get at it without dropping the oil pan...never done one yet so I have no idea what...but I did replace the oil pan gasket once...so far it hasn't leaked...

 

[ianthegreat]

Thanks Mark, wish I had the time to rip the whole damn engine out and fix those seals. Looks like I found my oil leak too. Rear main seal and/or oil pan. I don't noticeably lose a lot of oil, so I guess it isn't urgent yet.

Oil leak w/ a little oil pan gasket waving at us.




Was down the street. Mmmm



Question, is it possible for me to start the truck w/ the clutch not working? I don't think the truck has been started in a month or so and I want to let it run for a bit to circulate fluids.

 

[mp3deviant721]

You should be able to start it. Just make sure the transmission is in neutral.

 

[Mark_88]

^ yes, in neutral you can start the engine.

My engine sat for five years and I didn't want to rebuild it due to seals drying up so the first thing I did before running it was to put in some of that "No Smoke" stuff and run it for a few hours. Then drained the oil and put in fresh stuff (the oil was new four years ago) and another bottle of the no smoke...it doesn't leak form any seals.

I add Lucas oil stabilizer (about 1 litre) with regular oil and it helps keep things smooth. Ir also helps lubrucate when the oil is low. Drove my first engine home one night while with almost no oil because it was losing it faster than I could add it through blow-by. That was the main reason I eventually replaced the 2.0 short block with the 2.3 now in it.

Hope you can sort this out. What a bummer after all that work...but you will have rebuilt most of the difficult stuff after this...