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1986 2.3L Ranger Fuel Pumps not turning on


jmgraves90

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2018
Messages
2
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
I've got a 1986 2.3L ranger 2wd.

Other day I hit a big bump and the fuel pumps stopped working. My first thought was the inertia switch. I jumped the inertia switch and the pumps still do not turn on with ignition. Next I jumped the FP relay and I was able to get the pumps to turn on so I know there is power and ground at the FP.

After looking at the diagram in the link below, my next thought is to check the EEC Power Relay and verify that it has ground and turns on with ignition. If not I need to check Fuse 8 and G101.

Any other thoughts? Working on this truck tends to turn a 30 minute job into a weekend endeavor and I'd rather have this done quick.

Thanks in advance.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tec...les/Diagram_ElectronicEngControls2_3_1of3.JPG
 
Nice diagram, but I don't think you have a MAF sensor, so parts of it will likely not apply. If the wiring is close, I'd also check power from the EEC power relay, as it in turn powers the computer, which in turn, enables the fuel pump relay. Key ON, and the EEC power relay closes, sending power along the black conductor to a splice(good thing to check as splices are a common wiring failure point, not limited to FoMoCo), and then to a lot of other things.
I would consider taking a look at the actual ignition switch, a slide-type mounted atop the steering column a bit down from the lock cylinder. They do come apart over time as the pinches that hold them together tend to release allowing the switch to spread apart.
A good bump could have hastened the process. That problem more likely shows as the engine just stopping, and re-starting immediately, but being finicky about key position, but is worth taking a look, or trying to see if the pump comes on if you wiggle the key position in the ON area.
One last check is to jumper the EEC-IV diagnostic pins, connecting one to ground enables the pump to run continuously, or should.
tom
 
Nice diagram, but I don't think you have a MAF sensor, so parts of it will likely not apply. If the wiring is close, I'd also check power from the EEC power relay, as it in turn powers the computer, which in turn, enables the fuel pump relay. Key ON, and the EEC power relay closes, sending power along the black conductor to a splice(good thing to check as splices are a common wiring failure point, not limited to FoMoCo), and then to a lot of other things.
I would consider taking a look at the actual ignition switch, a slide-type mounted atop the steering column a bit down from the lock cylinder. They do come apart over time as the pinches that hold them together tend to release allowing the switch to spread apart.
A good bump could have hastened the process. That problem more likely shows as the engine just stopping, and re-starting immediately, but being finicky about key position, but is worth taking a look, or trying to see if the pump comes on if you wiggle the key position in the ON area.
One last check is to jumper the EEC-IV diagnostic pins, connecting one to ground enables the pump to run continuously, or should.
tom

Thanks Tom! I figured that diagram would be slightly off from what I had but it was pretty close.

It turns out that the fuseable link on the switch side of the EEC relay had burned, or corrosion finally made the wire break. re-wired that portion with an inline fuse and the pumps now come on with the ignition as intended.

I did have some trouble starting it still but I think it was more related to an almost dead battery and 4 degrees out and the fact that it sat for a couple weeks (it was firing as opposed to just turning over so I know it has fuel) I've had it on a trickle charger today and will try again when I get home.

Thanks for the advice!
 

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