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1350/1354 doubler


chico4554

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Aug 10, 2007
Messages
577
Age
38
City
CT
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Im new to the doubler scene, but im thinking I may start looking for parts to make one. I then realized that a friend has a mid 80's ranger (im thinking earlier then later) with the carb 6 cylinder in it. Im pretty sure it has a manual t-case. Would that truck have everything i need to make the doubler?

Im thinking it definatley has the 1350 manual t-case,

im assuming the linkage and shift lever would work just fine in my truck cause
the 1350 part goes in front of the 1354,

then I can use the 4x4 tranny output to make the stub shaft correct?

The truck is pretty beat, its been sitting for a long time on a farm so the critters and bugs have taken up vacancy. Do you think it would be worth trying to use the t-case even if its been sitting for so long? I could get the whole truck pretty much free...
 
If it's a manual case, that truck should have all the junkyard parts you need to make a doubler. Take the case, linkage, and tranny output shaft. The output can be cut off right where it comes out of the tranny.

You can look in the tech section at the writeup Todd and I did, for all the details.
 
Make sure that you very carefully consider what your doing when you try to put the shaft together from two pieces. The two piece shafts have been known to fail.
 
yea i read that its the hardest part of the build. I was thinking if I had one made, or even just the parts, then had a machine shop make a solid one from the measurements of the two peices. Im planning on starting to gather the parts now. I wont be doing this for a while so I have plenty of time to learn about it.
 
ive been looking at some of the linkage set-ups for the stubbler, and it looks like you can only go to lowrange on the 1354 to super low with the 1354/1350 combo. Can you run just normal 4x4 with the 1354? What does that linkage look like?
Im going off this thread. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166296
 
The two piece shaft will not fail if you make it correctly and operate the doubler correctly.

To run normal 4x4 you'd leave the doubler in HI and put the 1354 in 4HI. Here is what my linkage looks like:

Stick 1 (1350):

HI
|
N
|
LO

Stick 2 (1354):

2HI
|
4HI
|
N
|
4LO
 
so how do you know what setting the linkage is in? Does it click in like stock? Sorry for all the random questions, im just trying to feel this project out. I plan on getting a manual 1354 as well. Did you have to extend the stock 1354 linkage for it to work? Or is your 1354 still auto?
 
so how do you know what setting the linkage is in? Does it click in like stock? Sorry for all the random questions, im just trying to feel this project out. I plan on getting a manual 1354 as well. Did you have to extend the stock 1354 linkage for it to work? Or is your 1354 still auto?

Yes, a case will click but not lock in. You want locking linkage on the doubler case, like the stock linkage as a doubler case will want to jump out of gear since one of the shift forks has been removed.

A stock t-case will stay in gear on it's own, so I have non-locking linkage going to that. But it still "clicks" into each setting so you know where you're at.
 
Yeah you dont change any of the shift linkage when you cut down the doubler case. The little spring loaded detent thing stays in there and doesnt change the "locking in" feel.


Supposedly DD machines doubler kits are available again or soon will be. I am building my doubler from scratch except for the sector shaft. I already have it. I bought it from a guy in Kentucky. It was the last one.

Sent you a PM.
 
what is that shaft made out of metalMac? What is the best material to make it out of?

ive been dreaming of 120:1 for the past two days.
 
Last edited:
If you get that stub shaft made by a machine shop, they are gonna have to harden it... PROPERLY! It's a costly job and if you do go get a shop to make one, why not get a few others. One as a spare for yourself, one for your project... and maybe a few others to help pay for the work. Selling the extras would NOT be an issue!
 
Or, you can make a 2 piece shaft correctly for $50 - $100 and never worry about it again.
 
My shifters:


The stock floor shifter shifts the rear t-case like stock, the knob shifts the doubler (pull up/push down).
Never any issues with anything jumping out of gear.
 
FYI, Junkie, I am gonna steal your shifter linkage ideas.


That shaft i have is a stock shaft that has been cut down to lenght, turned on a lathe and had splines cut in it. I do not know what type of steel its made out of.
 
I made mine similar to Junkies

Misc004.jpg

DSCF1878.jpg


I was just looking at mine on my bench today thinking I should get off my ass and get a new shaft made up for mine.
 

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