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10W40 oil?


rusty ol ranger

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A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Is it just me or is this getting hard to find?

Even everyones favorite oil supplier walmart had nothing but supertech and quakerstate 10w40.

Guess ill have to start paying the obscene prices the parts stores want for it.
 
What's wrong with using Supertech?
 
Is it just me or is this getting hard to find?

Even everyones favorite oil supplier walmart had nothing but supertech and quakerstate 10w40.

Guess ill have to start paying the obscene prices the parts stores want for it.
The new standard for sh!tbox oil is now 10w30... engine tolerances have gotten much tighter in the last 20 or so years, so now your clapped out Honda Civic can be brought back to life by upgrading the 5w20 factory recommended oil to 10w30 after 275k miles.

AJ
 
The new standard for sh!tbox oil is now 10w30... engine tolerances have gotten much tighter in the last 20 or so years, so now your clapped out Honda Civic can be brought back to life by upgrading the 5w20 factory recommended oil to 10w30 after 275k miles.

AJ

Everything i own has over 100,000 miles. Im not running thin ass oil lol.
 
Everything i own has over 100,000 miles. Im not running thin ass oil lol.
Yeah but most of what you run is well over 25 years old, and the newer stuff has a design that is even older than that.. If you look at most of the crapboxes on the road today they are late 90s / early 2000s era. Even my 97 Ranger calls for 5w30 from the factory. and at 193k miles still runs pretty decent on it. 100k is nothing on a car made since the late 80s. 150k is now the new norm for higher mileage, and that number is going up.

Another point is maintenance and upkeep. most of those 20 year old crapboxes have fallen off of the manufacturer suggested service intervals 5 to 10 years ago lol

take a look at some of the diesel oils... they are a bit heavier
 
Everything I have owned in recent years has specified 5W-30, though Honda did change that down the road to something with a 20 in it as being fine. I, like you, prefer not to run a thinner oil.

Out of curiosity, why won’t you run Supertech? The testing I’ve seen on it shows it’s a perfectly fine oil.

Keep an eye on Quakerstate. It has a reputation (deserved or not) to sludge up.
 
Yeah but most of what you run is well over 25 years old, and the newer stuff has a design that is even older than that.. If you look at most of the crapboxes on the road today they are late 90s / early 2000s era. Even my 97 Ranger calls for 5w30 from the factory. and at 193k miles still runs pretty decent on it. 100k is nothing on a car made since the late 80s. 150k is now the new norm for higher mileage, and that number is going up.

Another point is maintenance and upkeep. most of those 20 year old crapboxes have fallen off of the manufacturer suggested service intervals 5 to 10 years ago lol

take a look at some of the diesel oils... they are a bit heavier
My wife's car is over 200k on 5w20 and runs perfectly.
 
Even 10W-30 is drying up at Wally World. I run it in my Ranger and I can't get it there in Valvoline anymore.

For heavier, I just switched my old B (circa 1946) to 15W-40 diesel oil. It just can't get enough 10W-30...
 
Go to places that sell stuff for motorcycles. Even when the day comes you can't find 10w-40 or 20w-50 in stores, it'll be available in motorcycle shops. Practically every motorcycle made to this day is designed to run those weights, since the oil also serves as the transmission lubricant. I run 20w-50 in my 3.0 Ranger, and have since I bought it in January 2000, has nearly 168,000 miles. I run 20w-50 in both my Suzukis. And although I do run 5w-20 in my Lightning, when it needs a little added, it's 20w-50, as that is all I keep in my garage. I run 10w-30 in my 4.0 Mustang, but will likely go 10w-40 next change.

There are a lot of different brands of motorcycle oil. The only thing really different about it is it has higher zinc content. That's for the wet clutch. Probably also for the extremely high rpm's that motorcycle engines attain.

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/

When anyone mentions zinc, they are actually referring to zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, a compound invented by Castrol for use in mineral-based oils or zinc di-thiophosphate (ZDTP), which is normally used in synthetic oils. Both have been used as an anti-wear ingredient in engine oil for many years.
 
It's no synthetic, but it's perfectly good (tested and certified) oil. What's your concern?
I dont really have a good reason why i dont run it i guess. I just have always ran Motorcraft/Valvoline. I used to run pennzoil too.
 
I have been dumping in a quart of 20W-50 with the 5W-30 at oil change to bump up the viscosity a little since I also can't find 10w-40 any more. Even 20W-50 is getting harder to find. I use Valvoline synthetic in all my vehicle with the exception of my Fairlane Cobra. The previous owner was using Mobile 1 and I don't like to change brands of oil.
 
Modern engines that run turbos and hydraulic cam phasers etc have tiny tiny oil passages all over the place. Even worn out they need thin oil or you'll starve those parts. Old pushrod motors can run on basically anything. I still run 10w30 in my 65' 289 but it wouldn't care if I dumped gear oil in it... wouldn't risk using anything over 0w20 or 5w20 in my 2.3 Dtech and EB though.

But back to sourcing oil... amazon... 5 quart penzoil 10w40 is around 15 bucks. Synthetic is around 25.
 
The formula for 10w40 hasn't been updated like 5w30 and 10w30. I wouldn't worry about using 5w30 or 10w30 in an old engine, flatheads excepted.
 

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