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1 piece driveline swap, quick question.


lucasruble

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
105
City
Olympia, WA
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
When getting a 1 piece from a 98+, I know it doesn't matter what tranny it has, and obviously it needs to be a super cab (as this is what I have). My question is does it matter what engine size I get the shaft from?
 
I Think a 3.0 or 4.0 I finally gave up searching junkyards nobody around here has them I just bought one for a 2001 ranger for $60 off ebay it should be here in a couple days the size difference is unbelievable it 4 inches across.
Heres the link to the thread http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/June04/offroad.htm
 
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No I don't think it matters. You'll have to trim your gas tank skid plate as well.
 
yeah,I think just taking off the bearing mount plate and notching it won't help me I think I'm going to have to move the cross member forward to clear the shaft
 
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yeah,I think just taking off the bearing mount plate and notching it won't help me I think I'm going to have to move the cross member forward to clear the shaft

You shouldn't have to but you can just sawzall the whole crossmember that supports the carrier bearing.
 
I read the mag article already, didn't see anything about engine size. I didn't think it would matter as far as engine size goes. I do believe you will have to move your x-member, 93 4x4. I'm only 4" lifted so I think I can squeak by without moving the whole thing. Yeah, those aluminum shafts are huge!
 
I can't say from experience or anything. I'm just going off of the article about moving the x-member for anything over 4" of lift.
 
I was working on a job site today and a two wheel drive 2002 ranger supercab auto trans pull in and I look under it the shaft is different has a slip yoke and was aluminum but it was 4'' wide I think I'm going to keep the cross member for frame strength
 
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I don't think it will matter much one way or the other if you keep it or not, it's only attached to the lower framerail lips. Perhaps it could offer a little protection for the driveshaft while offroad, though it still wouldn't be protecting the most vulnerable part of it (right near the rear axle flange).
 
I have 5.5 inchs of lift and i never had to move my cross member or trim my gas tank but my one piece shaft is not aluminum its steal so maybe its not as big as around. hadn't really took it off road since i installed it either so i dunno if its gonna rub or not but it looks like it got plenty of clearnce.
 
I don't think it will matter much one way or the other if you keep it or not, it's only attached to the lower framerail lips. Perhaps it could offer a little protection for the driveshaft while offroad, though it still wouldn't be protecting the most vulnerable part of it (right near the rear axle flange).

I agree....I originally kept mine when it had the 4" lift, but once I went higher than that I had to remove it to prevent rubbing. I was skeptical at first, but it doesnt affect anything and you'll never know its gone. Its still possible to relocate it forward if you feel the need.

I have 5.5 inchs of lift and i never had to move my cross member or trim my gas tank but my one piece shaft is not aluminum its steal so maybe its not as big as around. hadn't really took it off road since i installed it either so i dunno if its gonna rub or not but it looks like it got plenty of clearnce.

Interesting...You must not flex your suspension much then. At 6" of lift I couldnt even drive through my yard without it rubbing the gas tank skid plate, and thats with a steel driveshaft (the larger aluminum would be worse). If the awful noise wasnt enough to confirm it, the marks on the driveshaft were. With the vehicle at ride height the driveshaft doesnt sit very far away from the crossmember either and can come in contact with it offroading. I didnt even chance it by driving....Grabbed the angle grinder and went to town.:icon_welder:

So to recap...

At 0-4" of lift, you can get away with keeping the crossmember during light wheeing and slight trimming of the gas tank skid plate if needed.

At 4-6" of lift, the driveshaft is pretty close to the crossmember and will come in contact with it if you flex your suspension. Gas tank most definitely will need some triming, but the amount is determined by the diameter of driveshaft you have (smaller steel vs larger aluminum).

Hope this helps someone...:beer:
 
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Go ahead and remove it. But don't complain when your frame is twisted.
 
On my '97 with a 4" lift and the steel 1 piece was fine on road but once off road i noticed it did start rubbing on the cross member and when flexing the rear it rubs on the skid plate something fierce, I built a new cross member. Probably not necessary
 
Go ahead and remove it. But don't complain when your frame is twisted.

Bullshit.

Took it out of my 91 6 years ago. The truck has been wheeled hard this entire time. No issues what so ever. Everyone else who has removed it will also tell you this.
 
Bullshit.

Took it out of my 91 6 years ago. The truck has been wheeled hard this entire time. No issues what so ever. Everyone else who has removed it will also tell you this.

i pulled my cross member when i put the new drive shaft in a couple years ago, i've never had a problem with it. i didnt trim the skid plate though, i used a couple big crescent wrenches and bent the lip up and away from the drive shaft. i didnt want to pull the skid plate, and i didnt feel like throwing sparks at the trank either....
 

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