No it doesn't. If you've still got sway bars, the flex is super super super weak anyway period. Cranking the bars won't do anything as far as suspension travel. BUT....with them cranked up some, the amount of down travel at your disposal is reduced some....but that same travel was there before, you're just using some of it as your ride height if that makes sense.
A jack under the front x-member, 13mm socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet, 2 total rotations of the adjustment bolt usually is just enough to make a noticeable difference. For an almost level ride height, do 4 total rotations of the adjustment bolts. Even amount on both sides. And before you ask, YES, one bolt is deeper than the other. The bolts are the same length on both sides and the reason one is deeper than the other is to compensate for the added weight on the driver's side. Totally normal.
Adding a bodylift has nothing at all to do with suspension. The same rake you had before the bodylift will still be there after the bodylift. It merely raises the body off the frame 3".
I torsion cranked a $25,000 Ranger....shoot I bodylifted that same $25,000 ranger...shoot I prekeyed that same $25,000 ranger too! haha. All at the virginal age of 20,000 miles. Price of rig don't matter like said above, it gets the job done and it's about the only option to level the ride out without lowering the ass. If you want level without cranking, remove the rear block and lose 2.5" of ride height in the back.