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02 Sport Trac Rear brake line question(s)...


rumblecloud

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2020
Messages
1,818
City
48022
State - Country
MI - USA
Vehicle Year
1994
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
1-1/2 inch front leveling
Total Drop
Stock
Tire Size
31/10.50/15
My credo
What's the worst that could happen?
I have another post on this, but I've made progress and am kinda stymied at this point.
Both rear lines and center hose have been replaced so I'm all good there. The one from the front distribution block to the rear is what's giving me pause.

Here's the distribution block (not sure what it's called - ABS block?) at the front driver's side:

ABS Block.png
Arrow is the line to the rear.


Here is a pic of the rear line, a bit further down from the block:

rear brake line.png

At first, based on your input, it made sense to just replace the complete line from the back to the front. That would avoid having to make a bunch of different splices, etc. But the fitting at the block is different than a standard union and I can't find a replacement. So fine, I'll just rip this one off and reuse it on the new line -nu-uh. It's almost like it's part and parcel with the line. It spins, but will not slide on the line at all.

The second thing that's bugging me is the flexible, braided portion as the line makes its way down towards the frame. I guess this isn't such a big deal because I can just use a solid line and not worry about it.

Finally, the original line has a thin rubber-like coating making it a millimeter-or-so thicker than 3/16" so re-using any of the original line and using any standard 3/16" unions on it means having to remove that coating - a pain, but do-able.

Sorry for such a long explanation. I'm probably overthinking it but would still like to hear your opinions.

Thanks in advance.
r
 
Hmmm...

I think I would have probably stopped where the rear lines met the stainless flex hoses. The goal was to replace the rusted out lines completely and not just patch in portions where they where rusted out.

Are you past the point of return and able to just connect your new lines to the flex lines?
 
Hmmm...

I think I would have probably stopped where the rear lines met the stainless flex hoses. The goal was to replace the rusted out lines completely and not just patch in portions where they where rusted out.

Are you past the point of return and able to just connect your new lines to the flex lines?

Dang...see...that's what I needed. Someone to just slap my head for me.
I can certainly replace the line up to the flex part. Leave enough solid line below the flex
to flare and put a union there. And because I can totally remove that section from the block and bench it, I can more easily work the flaring tool.

some of those lines are available, check for Ford numbers. go to Rock auto with the #s.

I did find complete sets out there, but I'm cheap - kinda.

Thanks for the head slap.
 
Dang...what a PIA that job was -- but I won.
Ended up cutting an inch off the very end of the left rear line where the original rusted portion was. The rest of the line was solid, so no splices. Replaced the left and right rear lines and the center hose. Had to re-flare three of the five line ends till I got them right with no leaks. I am really good at double flaring now :D
Bleeding was the most time consuming and messy jobs I have encountered so far - Dot 3 everywhere. I used one of those vacuum pumps so I could bleed them without any help. Took awhile to get clean fluid in a solid stream, but it finally came through. One of the new bleeder screws would not seal when closed and it tool me awhile to figure that out. Once I did, it did not take long. I will have to cut and move the hose bracket on the left rear incoming line but that's another story
Hopefully tomorrow I can go for a test run, then if all goes well I can start putting the bed back on.
 

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