06 Frame Repairs


rangerkip1


U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
May 22, 2026
Messages
5
Points
1
City
Wellsboro
State - Country
PA - USA
Vehicle Year
2006
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
4.0 V6
Frame repairs in progress, I'm sleeving the rear of the driver's side rail. Doing a patch to the center hole near the shock mount. And just a square patch on the hole on top of the pax side rail.

I plan on following up with extensive rust removal, Rust-Oleum rust converter primer, then painting it with tractor paint.

Unfortunately my rear end is rusted too badly (4.10 open), so I am swapping in a temp 3.73 from a donor truck (seen In photo next to garage).
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That might be the most swiss cheesed frame I've ever seen.
 
Just replace the back 1/2 :)
Grind out the 16 rivet connecting the front and rear 1/2s, (4 on each spring shackle, 4 on each side of the frame crossmember)​
Pick up rear 1/2 from wrecker (Have them or do it yourself cut the frame ahead of the spring shackle/cross member). Repeat the shackle/cross member removal.​
Bolt in the frame crossmember and spring shackles.​
reconnect all your bits and bobs (springs, box, bumper, etc)​
Ford has a repair guide for doing exactly this (for accident damage)

Its easy and safe.
 
Just replace the back 1/2 :)
Grind out the 16 rivet connecting the front and rear 1/2s, (4 on each spring shackle, 4 on each side of the frame crossmember)​
Pick up rear 1/2 from wrecker (Have them or do it yourself cut the frame ahead of the spring shackle/cross member). Repeat the shackle/cross member removal.​
Bolt in the frame crossmember and spring shackles.​
reconnect all your bits and bobs (springs, box, bumper, etc)​
Ford has a repair guide for doing exactly this (for accident damage)

Its easy and safe.
Awesome. I did look into doing this, but my frame really isn't that bad, it's isolated issues and the thickness is fine. I bought this truck to be a beater. So I'm going to repair the frame and treat/repaint it.

I'm going as cheap as possible. The parts truck (running and driving, but toasted body and frame) was only $350, so I'm probably doing an axle swap.

Luckily the front half of my frame is completely rust free
 
Awesome. I did look into doing this, but my frame really isn't that bad, it's isolated issues and the thickness is fine. I bought this truck to be a beater. So I'm going to repair the frame and treat/repaint it.

Luckily the front half of my frame is completely rust free
The rear frame is really that bad.
When the those who have been on the forum 15-20 years say they never seen a frame swiss cheesed like that its an indication.​
While I'm not going to be driving in PA any time soon, other on the forum are from there as are you.
The frame is engineered to:
Flex / not concentrate loads, so it doesn't fail do to loading/crack due to stress concentration​
Yet deform in a major accident, so the driver isn't severely injured.​
Is someone's life worth saving a couple hundred bucks? (Hardly more than a couple tanks of gas these days. :) )
Especially if the front 1/2 is rust free - which means you're probably going to want to keep it for a while.​
 
Awesome. I did look into doing this, but my frame really isn't that bad, it's isolated issues and the thickness is fine. I bought this truck to be a beater. So I'm going to repair the frame and treat/repaint it.

I'm going as cheap as possible. The parts truck (running and driving, but toasted body and frame) was only $350, so I'm probably doing an axle swap.

Luckily the front half of my frame is completely rust free
I would take a chipping hammer and go checking the frame over really good for soft spots. I failed to do that on mine initially because the front “looked fine” but really wasn’t. There’s companies now that make repair sections/caps.

Cheap and frame repair don’t exactly go together. There’s resources on how to do frame repair correctly.

I managed to find a good rear section in a junkyard for mine and swapped the whole thing. Then I had to do some caps/repairs/sectioning to the front. Probably should have checked it better from the start.
 
I've been on here since 2010 ish, but lost email accounts and the military took me away from the forum lol.

The frame is not as bad as it looks, I'm doing some pretty intensive rust removal and reinforcement, I also have a new (stock) spare tire crossmember, and a thick sleeve for the back of the frame.

Luckily this is just a beater for me, I bought it as a backup vehicle and a something fun to work on. This will never be offroaded or used for heavy towing lol.

I am building that garage by myself for the sole purpose of messing with my vehicles and working on stuff.

Truck: $1700
Running parts truck: $350
Parts: $750
Tools: $500 (needed new jack/stands/impact sockets)
 

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