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These days you can buy 2 part epoxy rattle cans which are every bit as good as the original paint. I've used them already and had some very good luck. They seem to be easier (more forgiving) to apply too.
. I’m glad to see we’re making progress now that I have your attention
I have had great luck with Rustoleum. Some of you may remember that I restored an old Ranger this way. Rustoleum will last a lot longer with a krylon acrylic urethane spray clear coat. I recommend this over others because it will not wrinkle up if the Rustoleum is slightly dusty.They say the biggest part of solving the problem is understanding that there is a problem.
For complete disclosure, I don’t think rattle-can Rustoleum is bad stuff. But like anything technical, it’s all about the use and desired outcome. If used properly, it’s certainly OK for cosmetic accents. And while it may last years, I consider it a temporary application.
I was raised in the north, when a rust bucket really was a rust bucket (like my $135 1962 3WD Chevrolet pick up). There were parts on that truck where the only thing that held it together was the Rustoleum. Then I think about all you guys up north now, and a lot of the rust issues and rot you guys write up and have to deal with. It looks like some of you guys do all kinds of incredible complete and hard and fine work, cutting and welding in new pieces etc., and then the rattle can appears. Tsk tsk.
One of the reasons I love the Rustoleum is because the steel doesn’t have to be perfectly clean, the Rustoleum will penetrate and seal as well as coat. I’ve mentioned before, if there are intricate parts and spots that you can’t get to, starting with a 50-50 mix with mineral spirits, slopped on, will penetrate all the nooks and crannies. Then subsequent coats will stick to and cover that first coat (if applied within 48 hours), and you end up with a very good long-term protection.
As regards spraying it on, while a spray finish can be much smoother in appearance, simply by the way it works, it’s not near as thick, and does not provide the same long-term protection. The best combination of protection, durability, and nice finish would be to use the 50-50 mix, then brush on a decent coat, and then sand and finish it with a spray coat.
@lil_Blue_Ford ‘s blue camo with rattle cans will work, because then when he has to touch up that spray stuff over and over and over again, it won’t show.
@Blmpkn , I did not totally discard you, we only took 10 points off, and I provided you a pathway to have that penalty eliminated if you did the right thing.
@ericbphoto , it’s good to see you’re on the right track, but if you want to make the right impression on “those who know,” you might want to edit your picture to this:
View attachment 102481
I am quite impressed with the HFT/dollar store brushes, however.
@Lefty seems to understand all this, referencing a 12-month warranty on a rattle can job. Who ever gets 90% of the way down the road on a warranty, and then turns in the claim?
@racsan seems to have the fundamentals under control. On that accent on the hood, if you sand it with an 80 grit, and you mix the Rustoleum 70/30, and roll it on with a foam roller, on a 60 or 70° day in the shade, it will smooth out and probably outlast the truck.
As regards @Lefty ‘s two-part epoxy, you can probably get a better finish, and the stuff is hard as nails, and will be durable, but it doesn’t penetrate as well as the Rustoleum, and it is not designed for direct application on metal or rusty metal. You can get condensation, and then rust, between the epoxy and the base metal where there are voids.
Finally, if you’re going to take the time and attention to accomplish something like @bodied91ranger ‘s dream truck, this whole conversation is moot. I love the Rustoleum because it’s relatively dirt cheap, and relatively easy to get a very nice result for the money.
Please revise your papers before Monday.
As always, I hope it helps…
(and, @bodied91ranger, one quart of Black Rustoleum will cover your truck in one coat if you’re careful, and you use a foam roller).
I rode my metamoov 3000w electric scooter around where i live for about 7 miles and up to 31mph.Like the title states.... what did you do today? Anything fun? Doesn't have to be ranger related at all.
I.... swamped my wheeleron the first time out this year. All thanks to my lackluster memory. The back corner of the airbox has a little rubber hose that comes off of it.. in case of water intrusion. The idea is that the *little* bit of water that made its way Into the airbox will find its way down into the little tube and not get sucked through the filter Into the motor.
I 100% forgot that I took that stupid little tube off last year to drain it/clean it... and never got back around to installing it.. so when I found myself framed in a water hole that got MUCH deeper since last season...
View attachment 96500
...water was able to bubble up through the bottom of the airbox to about half way up the filter and it eventually ingested some.
View attachment 96501
^^my milkshake after we got back to where we put in. Belt box was also full lol.
So.. tomorrow we start the arduous process of deswamping. Yamahas are some of the more difficult motors to flush out... could take 8-9-10 times of drain-fill-crank.. drain-fill-crank.. drain-fill-crank... ugh. Wish me luck!
That's a bummer about the faulty battery.. any way to warranty it?
Happy December To You Blmpkn =)
They sent a faulty to me in the first place i can tell how decals are misaligned and a bolt was not tightented completley but the other same bolt was tightneded completey, My metamoov decals are misaligned.
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