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Well the rust is finally starting


The Fonz

Active Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2012
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Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Automatic
I've had my Bronco II for 2 years now and the salt is finally catching up to it (despite me religiously hosing it down). I'll have to fix this come spring when it warms up a bit, seems like moisture is making its way though where the two panels weld together on the inside.





What is the correct paint number/ available matches of Eddie Bauer Tan?
I did some searching and found that the eddie bauer paint color shows up as an Arizona Beige is UA/M6373, but have read that it is a noticeably different shade of tan. Anyone have any luck touching up the tan on an Eddie Bauer?
 


joenorthcarolina

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Jul 28, 2008
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Age
48
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
That rust on the rear fender lip is not really from salt. I live in a salt free zone 98.6% of the year, not to mention my BII has sit most of its life. I still have/had that rusty area behind the rear tire. The issue is the body seam sealer cracking. Your tires sling rain up in the fender but the water can't escape even when its hot as hell out side. If your sealant behind your tires looks cracked then you need a chisel, a loose hack saw blade, and a long pick of some sort. First, chisel the old seam sealant from under the truck. Second, under that sealant is another sealant (3M expanding foam) which acts like a sponge. Take your hack saw blade and work it in there to begin removing it. Third, take a pick and get the loose particles out. Fourth, take your cargo wall lining out and inspect the body side panel/floor board joint. My seam sealant was letting water into the cargo cab area. You may notice a hole at the very top or your fender-well. Its some sort of body thingy from Ford. Anyway seal that (weld or JB Weld it).
I haven't completely fixed mine as yet. I still have my cargo lining out. I'm trying to come up with a way to permanently put mine back together but the way the body is designed its going to be complex. The gas cap access door panel still lets water in to that area no matter what what you do. Then by design, its supposed to drain out the very rear at the bumper. Its going to be a tricky fix to resolve what Ford should have done to start with but anyway....I guess welding the gas cap door closed would do the job but a new gas inlet will need to be installed some where. What ever you do just be sure to apply lots of rust protection.
Good Luck, let me / us know how things turn out.
 
Last edited:

Die.Fledermaus

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Sep 14, 2011
Messages
256
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4
Location
State of Jefferson, USA
Vehicle Year
86
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.0 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.9
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
0"
Tire Size
215/75-15
I have the same question, seems EB had further limited colors, yet nobody talks. I found some late '80s sales pamphlets that listed the choices but were too blurry to read (ebay).

Yours looks close to mine, is your door jam sticker still intact?
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146048
 

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