Good sources for automotive wiring?

[rumblecloud]

Thinking about replacing a some wiring on the Ranger that i think are causing issues. Thought I'd ask if there are any good source or any tips anyone can offer. Electrics are not on my list of favorite tasks.

Thanks for any info or pointers.

r

 

[ericbphoto]

I don't have any single source for all electrical needs. I tend to shop the internet and find what I need in various places. There are so many little pieces and doo-dads that it gets confusing and expensive - fuses, wire, crimp connectors, plugs for removable connections, heat shrink, cable ties, tools, etc. And, I'm kind if picky about doing it the way I think is best after 42+ years as an electrician.

Some principles you need to keep in mind;
1. Everything on the vehicle can or will get wet. Even humidity is a problem. So, splices and connections need to be protected from moisture so they don't corroded.
2.Clean, tight connections are of utmost importance. Merely twisting 2 wires together and wrapping with electrical tape is NOT going to work. Make good, secure electrical connections. When establishing a ground connection to body or frame, scrape the paint away so you get good metal to metal contact. When the job is done, if you want to spray or brush some paint over top of your connection, that is fine.
3. Everything on a vehicle shakes and vibrates. Everything. So, make sure your connections are secured and tight in such a way that they can not vibrate loose. Also, fasten wires in place with cable ties or other suitable means to prevent them from flopping all around and rubbing on surfaces or sharp corners. They will eventually rub through the insulation and cause a short cir bit to ground, often in a place that is hard to find or access. Round over sharp edges or protect your wires by other means like split loom, pieces of old rubber hose, etc.
4. Some may argue. But I'm going to openly say " avoid insulation displacement" type connectors. One common typ are scotch-loc connectors. I'll attach a picture blow. These connectors often damage the wire strands, allow water intrusion for corrosion and become loose connections causing trouble later on.
5. My favorite type of wire splice is to twist and solder the wires together and cover with heat shrink tubing, preferably heat shrink with adhesive sealant inside. My second favorite is properly installed crimp connectors, preferable insulated with heat shrink tubing.

I have a few simple videos you can view, if you're interested. I need to make some more. But I've been busy.

Livvy's Ranger Garage

I have decided to put these videos here as a Curious Hound playlist. This was formerly a separate channel. As I develop new "How-To" content, I will publish ...

youtube.com

I forgot to add this picture earlier. These are the connectors I absolutely do NOT recommend.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm going to suggest staying away from CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum). It's cheap though... and tempting to grab an assortment of colors. You also have to go up an AWG size to have the same current flow spec as pure copper.

@bobbywalter posted a good source with about everything you'd need. But in my hard drive crash... I lost the link.

 

[bobbywalter]

problem with wiring..... its a constant state of flux.





and that cca crap is getting to be everywhere and some places not differentiating it as well....even if you ask they dont always know.

 

[RobbieD]

I don't have any single source for all electrical needs. I tend to shop the internet and find what I need in various places. There are so many little pieces and doo-dads that it gets confusing and expensive - fuses, wire, crimp connectors, plugs for removable connections, heat shrink, cable ties, tools, etc. And, I'm kind if picky about doing it the way I think is best after 42+ years as an electrician.

Some principles you need to keep in mind;
1. Everything on the vehicle can or will get wet. Even humidity is a problem. So, splices and connections need to be protected from moisture so they don't corroded.
2.Clean, tight connections are of utmost importance. Merely twisting 2 wires together and wrapping with electrical tape is NOT going to work. Make good, secure electrical connections. When establishing a ground connection to body or frame, scrape the paint away so you get good metal to metal contact. When the job is done, if you want to spray or brush some paint over top of your connection, that is fine.
3. Everything on a vehicle shakes and vibrates. Everything. So, make sure your connections are secured and tight in such a way that they can not vibrate loose. Also, fasten wires in place with cable ties or other suitable means to prevent them from flopping all around and rubbing on surfaces or sharp corners. They will eventually rub through the insulation and cause a short cir bit to ground, often in a place that is hard to find or access. Round over sharp edges or protect your wires by other means like split loom, pieces of old rubber hose, etc.
4. Some may argue. But I'm going to openly say " avoid insulation displacement" type connectors. One common typ are scotch-loc connectors. I'll attach a picture blow. These connectors often damage the wire strands, allow water intrusion for corrosion and become loose connections causing trouble later on.
5. My favorite type of wire splice is to twist and solder the wires together and cover with heat shrink tubing, preferably heat shrink with adhesive sealant inside. My second favorite is properly installed crimp connectors, preferable insulated with heat shrink tubing.

I have a few simple videos you can view, if you're interested. I need to make some more. But I've been busy.

Livvy's Ranger Garage

I have decided to put these videos here as a Curious Hound playlist. This was formerly a separate channel. As I develop new "How-To" content, I will publish ...

youtube.com

All of that is excellent advice!

4. Some may argue. But I'm going to openly say " avoid insulation displacement" type connectors. One common typ are scotch-loc connectors. I'll attach a picture blow. These connectors often damage the wire strands, allow water intrusion for corrosion and become loose connections causing trouble later on.

And I second that point whole heartily; these types of connectors are temporary at best. They damage the insulation always, and the wire strands in some cases.

 

[bobbywalter]

All of that is excellent advice!



And I second that point whole heartily; these types of connectors are temporary at best. They damage the insulation always, and the wire strands in some cases.

there are alot of broncos that go topless having issues from corroding at the bus module pins causing untraceable issues in regards to trouble shooting.

i was just at a shop that has aftermarket stuff. the dealer could not figure it out. truck loses all the dash and radio/screen controls. and will shut off...then wont start or run till ya beat the fawk out of the dash.. sometimes quits charging battery ect and dies that way. 8 months old less the 2k miles...but topless most of the time and gets rained on just like my junk..


once tore down green death corrosion was everywhere.

i have to tell ya.... i am very disappointed in ford these days.

at least our older junk is easier to trouble shoot.



rumblecloud.... need more detail in order to make a suggestion.

 

[rumblecloud]

@ericbphoto : thanks a bunch for that link. I will watch every one of them.

And the CCA stuff...I have seen that mentioned in some of my shopping trips. I want stranded copper - I think.
When I have made connections before, I have soldered and shrink-wrapped where possible. I need to get a smaller soldering tool for those hard to reach locations though. Did not know about adhesive shrink wrap.

@bobbywalter
The thing I am currently working up the courage to do is the wiring from the MAF back to the PCM/ECU ( pick your favorite term). One of the wires is damaged and it runs a very circuitous route back the PCM. I was thinking of running a jumper just to test and if proves my suspicion, I was going to take the time to re-route the suspect wire.

Seems like a minor thing, but it is making me crazy.

 

[bobbywalter]

stock ranger application or a v8 swap?

stock 4.0 can take some twists and turns.

 

[rumblecloud]

stock ranger application or a v8 swap?

stock 4.0 can take some twists and turns.

She's all stock. I did do some head work couple of years back, but it had been running pretty good for awhile now.

 

[ericbphoto]

The thing I am currently working up the courage to do is the wiring from the MAF back to the PCM/ECU ( pick your favorite term).

Hmmm. I wonder if that is still intact in the 97 harness I have under the workbench.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Hmmm. I wonder if that is still intact in the 97 harness I have under the workbench.

He has a 4.0L...

I'm guessing yours is a 3.0L?

 

[ericbphoto]

He has a 4.0L...

I'm guessing yours is a 3.0L?

Well, yeah. But it's still a Ford.

Actually, I'm willing to bet the wiring harness is the same for the MAF, even though the MAF itself may be calibrated differently. All he needs are the wires with the pins on the ends to insert into the connectors.

 

[rumblecloud]

I was thinking of the pull yard. They have a 93 with a 4.0 and a 94 with a 3.0.
People don't usually go to that extreme when they're picking.

 

[rumblecloud]

Yea!! Went today and hit up the 93 with the 4.0. Man the thing was picked over. ECM was gone along with a bunch of other stuffs, but it still amazes me at what's left behind,

The harness was intact and the wire colors matched what the book says, so...I got the whole thing from the edm all the way to the MAF and beyond - fuse box, headlight and turn signal plugs and more. Had to cut a couple of wires but I wasn't about to crawl unfer the thing to get at them.

NExt is how to proceed. Not sure what would be the most practical approach. 1> swap out the entire harness, or 2: remove the existing harness, layt them both out side by side and strip out the ole faulty wires and strip in the new(ER) wires.
Whaddya think?

Thanks
pics later...

r

 

[RobbieD]

Both of your options are basically the same labor. If it were me I'd lay them out side by side, and choose the best one, or make up the best harness from the best parts.

It's a good opportunity to check everything end-to-end for corrosion, broken connector parts or damaged wires. You can also do a good cleaning and re-wrap before it goes back in.

Needless to say, tag things, take pictures and notes, and I'm sure that you know how to de-pin and re-pin connectors if needed.

If I don't tag, note and image, I always get bit in the ass by my CRS.