therabbithole
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 1
- Location
- Salisbury, MD
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Transmission
- Manual
Hi all - I’m hoping someone can get me off the fence [i really don’t care on which side I land] about buying a cheap clutch. Does anyone have any compelling horror stories of what can go wrong, and any sense of how reliably things will go wrong with a cheapie?
I’ve got 2.9 and an FM145 with 180,000 miles that’s not gonna do much and won’t ever be asked to go too far at once. The original friction plate still has about 3/16” of lining on both faces and the springs in both it and the pressure plate are all looking pretty right, all of which I’m taking as an indication of how much/little of a toll my driving takes (it’s apart because of a dead slave cylinder).
Does anyone have any reason not to just go buy the cheapest thing I can get? Specifically, Rock Auto has an AMS/RhinoPac kit that’s really tempting, but I could also probably be talked into being more responsible so... I’m all ears.
Thanks I’m advance.
I’ve got 2.9 and an FM145 with 180,000 miles that’s not gonna do much and won’t ever be asked to go too far at once. The original friction plate still has about 3/16” of lining on both faces and the springs in both it and the pressure plate are all looking pretty right, all of which I’m taking as an indication of how much/little of a toll my driving takes (it’s apart because of a dead slave cylinder).
Does anyone have any reason not to just go buy the cheapest thing I can get? Specifically, Rock Auto has an AMS/RhinoPac kit that’s really tempting, but I could also probably be talked into being more responsible so... I’m all ears.
Thanks I’m advance.