99 4x4 - 33" tires, 3" body lift alignment issues

[mimswk]

I've got a '99 4X4 with a 3" body lift and 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains. 5.0 swap.

Did a bunch of front end work - new rack and pinion, outer tie rod ends, upper control arms, shocks, wheel bearings, Mile Marker manual hubs, adjustable camber/caster bolts on both sides, sway bar end links, CV axles.

I think the torsion bars are somewhat in the stock setting, with maybe an adjustment for truck lean maybe. Not sure if the previous owner messed with it beyond that.

Took it to get an alignment, and it pulled to the passenger side somewhat. Drove it about 50 miles and started noticing some inner tire wear.

It did look like the passenger side tire was visually "off" a little and thought it might be the toe, but according to the machine it's pretty much dead on.

There is a two piece adjustable upper control arm for the passenger side - that type was on the the truck, but I replaced it with a non adjustable/solid one. I'm not certain if that makes a huge difference in the ability to get it properly aligned or not.

Took it back to the shop (major franchise) and told them what was happening. They put it back on the machine and afterwards told me that they can't adjust it any further and that's the best it can get unless I buy extended upper control arms, which sounds like crap to me.

From what I can gather, they've adjusted things as far out as it can go and it still isn't enough to get it right. Any suspension pros in here that can weigh in on getting this truck to run straight down the road and not tear up my tires?

I've included a photo of the alignment settings from the machine. Sure would appreciate any help!

 

[ericbphoto]

I'm not a suspension expert. But here are my thoughts anyway. The 5.0 is probably adding extra weight to the front. If the pieces and parts you currently have won't adjust far enough, then you probably need other parts. I would be looking to see if there are heavier duty springs to account for the heavier engine. What was the original engine? If it was a 4-cyl, try getting springs from a truck with 4.0l and extended cab. The other thing would be to go back to extended or adjustable upper arms like you had before. I don't know what's available.

 

[don4331]

Eric is on right track - 5.0 Expos come with heavier front torsion bars - between the V-8 and 4R70W you will have added >200 lbs to front of your Ranger assuming 4.0/5R55E, another 150 lbs more if it had 3.0/M5ODR-1. (I doubt your 4x4 SuperCab came with a 2.3).

The 2 piece control arm just allows caster adjustment and yours isn't really that bad.

Long term you probably want to look for a set of Expo torsion bars. They are PIA to replace after 20+ years, so I just swapped lower control arms & bars all in one swoop - allowed me to replace ball joints and mount bushings at same time, but you've probably done that with your existing ones so you are in no man's land.

There are aftermarket camber cams available to go with lifts/torsion twist - i.e. Superlift makes a set that will get you a little more - perhaps the degree you are looking for.

But: As you have a number of mods: 5.0, 33, aftermarket rims - The stock specs are just a reference. You are going to have to work with a tech who knows his @#!+ and can adjust your truck to what it needs. You may need a little additional toe-in for the larger/heavier tires or it might be less as the tires are larger diameter and roll easier. And backspace of rims makes a huge difference (I'd be interested in knowing what it is). Same for camber.

 

[mimswk]

I'm not a suspension expert. But here are my thoughts anyway. The 5.0 is probably adding extra weight to the front. If the pieces and parts you currently have won't adjust far enough, then you probably need other parts. I would be looking to see if there are heavier duty springs to account for the heavier engine. What was the original engine? If it was a 4-cyl, try getting springs from a truck with 4.0l and extended cab. The other thing would be to go back to extended or adjustable upper arms like you had before. I don't know what's available.

Eric is on right track - 5.0 Expos come with heavier front torsion bars - between the V-8 and 4R70W you will have added >200 lbs to front of your Ranger assuming 4.0/5R55E, another 150 lbs more if it had 3.0/M5ODR-1. (I doubt your 4x4 SuperCab came with a 2.3).

The 2 piece control arm just allows caster adjustment and yours isn't really that bad.

Long term you probably want to look for a set of Expo torsion bars. They are PIA to replace after 20+ years, so I just swapped lower control arms & bars all in one swoop - allowed me to replace ball joints and mount bushings at same time, but you've probably done that with your existing ones so you are in no man's land.

There are aftermarket camber cams available to go with lifts/torsion twist - i.e. Superlift makes a set that will get you a little more - perhaps the degree you are looking for.

But: As you have a number of mods: 5.0, 33, aftermarket rims - The stock specs are just a reference. You are going to have to work with a tech who knows his @#!+ and can adjust your truck to what it needs. You may need a little additional toe-in for the larger/heavier tires or it might be less as the tires are larger diameter and roll easier. And backspace of rims makes a huge difference (I'd be interested in knowing what it is). Same for camber.

Thanks, Eric and Don. I have Expo torsion bars on the to-do list. I thought the 5.0 only added 100# or so to the front of the truck, but it may be more like you say. Truck was originally a 3.0. I didn't swap out lower control arms (was saving that for when I did the torsion bars) but that's also on the list.

I used the Moog K80065 adjustable camber kit, which according to the Summit description allows for +/- 1 5/8" correction. I suppose I'll try to see if I can find another kit that allows for a higher degree of correction - any leads as to who might have those?

And there is a proper 4x4 shop nearby, but they are always super busy and kind of unresponsive. They seem to cater more to the fancy big trucks with those gigantic offset wheels. Mine's more of a part-time farm/work truck, but I do want it to run/drive/stop decently and not cause unnecessary wear or damage.

Thanks again for the replies.

 

[don4331]

If you want to nitpik I just said it added >200 lbs, I didn't give breakdown.

5.0/4R70W adds 167 lbs to front and 38 to rear over 4.0/5R55E and 4.0/5R55E adds 68 front/20 rear over 3.0/4R55E. 33x10.5R15s could add 20 lbs/corner over 235/75R15s. Aftermarket wheels are crapshoot - Fuel rims that were on my F-150 when it was on lot added 22 lbs/corner, the 15 spoke rims on my Focus SVT were 5 lbs lighter.

And how close are you to the 150 lbs "standard" driver are you? Ok, got that off my chest.

Yes, tough to get high end shops to take time out from jobs which pay 4 figures to do one that pays 2.

With careful use of grinder, you can open up the outside of the camber stops on the frame and then weld thin strip to inside stop to gain you an 1/8", which might get you what you need.

 

[mimswk]

If you want to nitpik I just said it added >200 lbs, I didn't give breakdown.

5.0/4R70W adds 167 lbs to front and 38 to rear over 4.0/5R55E and 4.0/5R55E adds 68 front/20 rear over 3.0/4R55E. 33x10.5R15s could add 20 lbs/corner over 235/75R15s. Aftermarket wheels are crapshoot - Fuel rims that were on my F-150 when it was on lot added 22 lbs/corner, the 15 spoke rims on my Focus SVT were 5 lbs lighter.

And how close are you to the 150 lbs "standard" driver are you? Ok, got that off my chest.

Yes, tough to get high end shops to take time out from jobs which pay 4 figures to do one that pays 2.

With careful use of grinder, you can open up the outside of the camber stops on the frame and then weld thin strip to inside stop to gain you an 1/8", which might get you what you need.

Yeah, you are right, Don! I didn't take into consideration everything in your weight analysis.

That's a pretty good idea about grinding down the camber stops. I may go that route if I can't come up with a camber kit with more correction. There has to be one that offers more than the +/- 1 5/8" that the Moog kit does.