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351W timing set question


franklin2

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No engine is not out. Im thinking of just slapping the chain in fireing it up and seeing where im at. If i pull it chances are its getting rebuilt regardless.

If i can pull the pan with it basically in ill do it...but if i gotta pull it anyways...
Eyeball it under there and see what is in the way. On a 1980-up truck, it's a miserable job and you have to reach up over the pan and unbolt the oil pump pickup tube. Maybe you have more room and your sump will be up front so it might be easier.
 


rusty ol ranger

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Eyeball it under there and see what is in the way. On a 1980-up truck, it's a miserable job and you have to reach up over the pan and unbolt the oil pump pickup tube. Maybe you have more room and your sump will be up front so it might be easier.
I was doing some reading and it sounds like its basically the same deal.

Next week or two im gonna drag it out and put it in my workplace...get it up on blocks (my fat ass aint squeezin under it) and see what im gonna be up against.

Its going to be a slow project. Ive stolen parts off it over the years for stuff.
 

19Walt93

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I screen shotted this. Thanks for typing all that. I might give it a whirl when i get that far.
There's another step that you might not want to bother with. If you remove the reluctor and the base plate, you can see the centrifugal advance mechanism. The upper shaft has 2 kind of U shaped legs that are different sizes, I usually pull the upper shaft off and turn it so the advance stops are in the narrower of the 2 openings, reducing the amount of advance so I can bump the base timing ahead. I'm not sure it makes much power difference but I like the way it runs better.
 

O No 3.0!

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Im not exactly clear how to do that? I know i bumped the ignition timing up an couple degrees. Ran 93 in it and even that woke it up considerably.

My original plan was to build a 400 for it (why? Torque...and everyone does a 460 lol) but id have to swap bells and mounts anr whatever else.

But yeah i am all ears for how to pick up a bit of ass while im messing with it anyways. Like i said i dont wanna go full on even if i rebuild it....just a nice cruiser thats reliable.
Get an adjustable timing set from cloyes. Advance the cam 4*. Its simple to do. It has marked keyways on it. Advancing helps low end. Retarding helps higher end.
 

19Walt93

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I wouldn't advance the cam- that has the effect of making the cam act smaller and a stock cam doesn't need that. If you use a good double roller chain and gears, and set them at zero, that will be about 6 degrees advanced compared to the factory setup. If you set it 4 degrees advanced beyond zero you won't like it.
 

rusty ol ranger

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I wouldn't advance the cam- that has the effect of making the cam act smaller and a stock cam doesn't need that. If you use a good double roller chain and gears, and set them at zero, that will be about 6 degrees advanced compared to the factory setup. If you set it 4 degrees advanced beyond zero you won't like it.
So whats the 69 set i bought gonna do then?
 

19Walt93

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So whats the 69 set i bought gonna do then?
It should be good, the retarded cam timing didn't start until 73-4 or so. A 302 was somewhere around 200 hp in 69 and by 75 the retarded cam timing, ignition advance curve, lean mixture, and lousy heads had it down to 139 hp.
 

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I agree with walt.
 

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