1984 Mechanical Fuel Pump Problem.

[RTWRIDER]

Hello everyone, this is my first post in this community. I purchase a 1984 Ford Ranger 2.8 v6 Roll-a-Long camper. I replaced the mechanical fuel pump, (precision part: M16158) and I'm not getting any gas, I thought was defect, got another one, still the same.

So hired a mobile mechanic, we tried even with the fuel line (after the dual tank switcher) direct to a gas container, and nothing, it's not pumping gas, the pump pushing rod looks fine, fuel line it's clean.

The mechanic said the rod could be short to make the pump working properly? Or missing a spring or there is a right position to place the rod inside the motor?

I put my finger inside the engine and I felt a small circular hole at the lower part, but was empty, could be a little metal ball there?

Did I lost any parts inside the motor? I could not find any exploded view from this section. Any thoughts?

Tks and advance.

 

[RTWRIDER]

I guess I find the answer here guys: https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-9l-3-0l-v6-tech-32/2-8-v6-mechanical-fuel-pump-150070/

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I wanted to say it needed primed but I haven't changed a mechanical fuel pump in 18 years... so I kicked it over to here hoping someone with more experience knew for sure.

 

[RonD]

No, no spring needed.

The spring is IN the mechanical fuel pump

For the 2.8l the rod goes in a tube up to the CAM shaft where there is an EXTRA cam lobe to push rod down, spring in fuel pump pushes rod back up.

Picture of 2.8l Cam here: https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/282CL381014_L_ee11e1b5-54bd-4016-912b-8b43cd0ea511.jpg

You can see there are 5 cam lobes in the front section, middle and rear just 4 each

Pretty simple setup.

As said fuel pumps can NOT pump air, only a fluid, so they need to be Primed
You do this by pouring fuel down from the carb end of the fuel line into the pump, hook it up to carb and crank engine.
Gas tank needs to be over 1/2 full for best results, pump does need to LIFT gasoline up and over the top of the gas tank to start a siphon.
Or you can leave gas tank hose off the fuel pump then use tight fitting hose on it and SUCK on it until siphon starts
Or use damp towel and hose in Filler tube(gas cap opening) and blow into it until fuel flows out the fuel pump end of hose.

Its possible you have the wrong length push rod but.........where would it come from????
Do you have a collection of mechanical fuel pump push rods?


And worst case is to leave push rod out and cover the fuel pump hole
Then install an electric fuel pump

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I guess I find the answer here guys: https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-9l-3-0l-v6-tech-32/2-8-v6-mechanical-fuel-pump-150070/

Tread can be deleted. Tks

No need to delete. We want people to be able to find this thread in a search and get an answer like you did.

 

[RTWRIDER]

I wanted to say it needed primed but I haven't changed a mechanical fuel pump in 18 years... so I kicked it over to here hoping someone with more experience knew for sure.

You right, even after 18! Tks!

 

[RTWRIDER]

No, no spring needed.

The spring is IN the mechanical fuel pump

For the 2.8l the rod goes in a tube up to the CAM shaft where there is an EXTRA cam lobe to push rod down, spring in fuel pump pushes rod back up.

Picture of 2.8l Cam here: https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/282CL381014_L_ee11e1b5-54bd-4016-912b-8b43cd0ea511.jpg

You can see there are 5 cam lobes in the front section, middle and rear just 4 each

Pretty simple setup.

As said fuel pumps can NOT pump air, only a fluid, so they need to be Primed
You do this by pouring fuel down from the carb end of the fuel line into the pump, hook it up to carb and crank engine.
Gas tank needs to be over 1/2 full for best results, pump does need to LIFT gasoline up and over the top of the gas tank to start a siphon.
Or you can leave gas tank hose off the fuel pump then use tight fitting hose on it and SUCK on it until siphon starts
Or use damp towel and hose in Filler tube(gas cap opening) and blow into it until fuel flows out the fuel pump end of hose.

Its possible you have the wrong length push rod but.........where would it come from????
Do you have a collection of mechanical fuel pump push rods?


And worst case is to leave push rod out and cover the fuel pump hole
Then install an electric fuel pump

No need to delete. We want people to be able to find this thread in a search and get an answer like you did.

Tks Ron, the answer I found in the achive was yours : ) I hope I can start tomorrow. That’s what I thought, the pump can’t pump air, but I didn’t want to argue with the “mechanic” and no, no colection of rods, the one I’m using come from the motor.

Agree alwaysFIOoREed, tks.

 

[houlimon]

No, no spring needed.

The spring is IN the mechanical fuel pump

For the 2.8l the rod goes in a tube up to the CAM shaft where there is an EXTRA cam lobe to push rod down, spring in fuel pump pushes rod back up.

Picture of 2.8l Cam here: https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/282CL381014_L_ee11e1b5-54bd-4016-912b-8b43cd0ea511.jpg

You can see there are 5 cam lobes in the front section, middle and rear just 4 each

Pretty simple setup.

As said fuel pumps can NOT pump air, only a fluid, so they need to be Primed
You do this by pouring fuel down from the carb end of the fuel line into the pump, hook it up to carb and crank engine.
Gas tank needs to be over 1/2 full for best results, pump does need to LIFT gasoline up and over the top of the gas tank to start a siphon.
Or you can leave gas tank hose off the fuel pump then use tight fitting hose on it and SUCK on it until siphon starts
Or use damp towel and hose in Filler tube(gas cap opening) and blow into it until fuel flows out the fuel pump end of hose.

Its possible you have the wrong length push rod but.........where would it come from????
Do you have a collection of mechanical fuel pump push rods?


And worst case is to leave push rod out and cover the fuel pump hole
Then install an electric fuel pump

I never primed my fuel pump, poured fuel down the bowls or sprayed starting fluid.

I pumped my gas 3-4 times and let her crank with a few pumps while cranking and she started no problem. My previous fuel pump was providing fuel but was leaking a lot, and i mean a lot!

I like the electric fuel pump idea. getting to the mech fuel pump is not fun.

 

[4x4prepper]

I never primed my fuel pump, poured fuel down the bowls or sprayed starting fluid.

I pumped my gas 3-4 times and let her crank with a few pumps while cranking and she started no problem. My previous fuel pump was providing fuel but was leaking a lot, and i mean a lot!

I like the electric fuel pump idea. getting to the mech fuel pump is not fun.

In the FWIW department I think the problem is people are not putting the rod in correctly. Make sure the lobe is sticking out, put the push rod in, and press the pump on. Please note if you have a big oil pressure sending unit, it has to be removed and replaced, you are almost guaranteed not to do the job correctly if you leave it in there. You have to do the fuel pump from under the vehicle.

I have never primed a 2.8L except on an Alfa Romeo (was a conversion) that used an electric to prime and start since the fuel line was so long and the pump sat as high as the gas tank, but, the lines dipped down to almost ground level.

Please note not all fuel pumps are equal and these type of fuel pumps WILL go bad if you leave them sitting. I have gotten more then one carb Ford running just by changing the fuel pump and lines.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Old thread I know but this is the one Google brought up when I searched "Ford 2.8 fuel pump change"

Just a quick tip here for folks..

When you're putting your new pump on replace the factory bolts with allen head bolts. You can then use a long allen with the ball-tip to get at the bolts in mere minutes should you need to in the future.



GB

 

[AndyB.]

Old thread I know but this is the one Google brought up when I searched "Ford 2.8 fuel pump change"

Just a quick tip here for folks..

When you're putting your new pump on replace the factory bolts with allen head bolts. You can then use a long allen with the ball-tip to get at the bolts in mere minutes should you need to in the future.



GB

There’s a simpler solution:

Amazon.com

 

[Bird76Mojo]

There’s a simpler solution:

Amazon.com

In my case, I could not get a ratchet wrench in there on the bottom/rearward bolt without removing the oil pressure sender. I tried. Gearwrench brand too. Fact is, the allen bolts make removal MUCH easier.

 

[Doug Burgoyne]

If you replacd with electric pump (which I wouldnt) remember carbed engines only get like 6 psi from mechanical pump. Electric without regulator could be up to 60 psi....which would probably push right past needle seat in carb bowl. Just a thought to add.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you replacd with electric pump (which I wouldnt) remember carbed engines only get like 6 psi from mechanical pump. Electric without regulator could be up to 60 psi....which would probably push right past needle seat in carb bowl. Just a thought to add.

Lots of electric pumps with the correct psi output for carbs. The intank pump on the 86 to 88 ranger and b2 is an example, tho I use in aftermarket inline pump on my stuff.

 

[Angry Possum]

Lots of electric pumps with the correct psi output for carbs. The intank pump on the 86 to 88 ranger and b2 is an example, tho I use in aftermarket inline pump on my stuff.

Yes, they have lots of them on Amazon and eBay too. I actually put an electric pump in my 1985 Boat. I wired the circuit with the oil switch for safety. I'd never go back to a mechanical pump again in my boat.